Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

hi all

i got my photon yesterday ... :) ... its new to me in fact the previous owner never printed with it so got it at a fair price .... i know its the older type as the screen is the white one with the 3 blue squares .. any way i updated the firmware to 4.2.18 as theres a warning not to go to .19 ...

i printed the test cube thing ant it printed fine ive tried acouple of files ive have sliced with chitubox (latest version) and both times its got around 3 hours in and the bed has lifted out of the vat and rasied by 10/20 mm and stays there the display is showing like its stuck on a layer the dark rectangle shows the layer to be exposing but nothing is happening ....

Help please as the pitstop girl said

翻譯年糕

In Prusa slicer after auto-generating support points, the supports are below the pad as in the attached photo. So when I export as stl file with supports to Photon slicer I have a problem with first some slices on platform. Could you help where is the problem?

翻譯年糕

I've had some frame shearing off and on and wondering if anyone know of things that can cause it. I've heard corrupt usb, which I've already replaced. Firmware is up to date v5.0.2. My last print turned out great, but the frame shearing debris is getting on my fep and I hate having to excessively clean it. Could an aging lcd be the cause? Is there anything I can check?

翻譯年糕

So now that I owned resin printers for 18 months now I have some info for you all.
After 1000 hrs on the Photon S screen replacement and one going at 2000 hrs and still going. What I did when they came in was I looked at the whole machine all sides and such. And tried an experiment. There is a large fan on the bottom of these machines as well as Egeloo mars and others. They all have feet that raise the unit up about 1 inch at most. So I decided to raise one Mars and then One Photon I cut a hole below the unit into my stand/platform where the fan/unit would be above. This created better air flow and I have found that machine runs less hot and the lcd lasted longer up to 2x as much. So I would say Rasie Your Machines off the platform you have it on. See photos below on my test units. I have 8 Photons and 4 Mars machines and s400s and Phenom and Transform machines here as well.
Good luck and Happy Printing.
Michael LR3D

所以現在我擁有樹脂印表機18個月, 現在我有一些資訊告訴大家.
1000小時後, 光子s螢幕更換, 一個在2000小時後, 仍在進行中. 他們進來的時候我所做的是我看著整個機器的各個方面等等. 嘗試了一個實驗. 這些機器的底部有一個大粉絲, 還有egeloo火星和其他人. 他們都有腳能讓單元提高了大約1英吋. 所以我決定舉起一顆火星, 然後一個光子, 我在單位下面切了一個洞進入我的站台/平台上的球迷/平台. 這創造了更好的空氣流動, 我發現機器運行更少, 液晶顯示器持續更長至2倍. 所以, 我想說rasie你的機器離開了平台. 在我的測試單元檢視下面的照片. 我這裡還有8個光子和4個火星機器, s400s和phenom和變形機.
祝你好運, 印刷快樂.
邁克爾· l3d

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Basics question here! So I modeled from sketchup in inches. When I open the model in Photon Slicer its in mm. What % should I scale to get the scale I want? Any help will be appreciated.

Update: I exported the stl again from sketchup in mm and it worked perfectly. Thank you all for your help!

翻譯年糕

I would like to make my rings flexible, where they can be squeezed and not break. I have seen it done on other projects but can it be done on small objects? If so what are the setting? I use anycubic grey.

翻譯年糕

Anycubic Validator.

Rather than me going off to 1 figure out how / where to change it and 2 trying to remember how to java.

Can we get an update that uses something like Dijkstra's algorithm to auto fix single pixels within a single pixel distance from a group.

It's a great piece of open source work, it can just be a little painful when there seems to be a single pixel out on every layer :(

EDIT: I literally just found a button that does exactly what i'm asking... fml!

翻譯年糕

Hey folks, hoping someone can shed light on my issue. I’ve had my photonS for over a year, it runs well and I barely ever have an issue that I can’t resolve quickly. My screen recently crapped out so I replaced it and since doing so cannot get a print to stick to the bed if my life depended on it.

I’ve tried re-levelling the bed numerous times
My machine is perfectly level
The new screen works properly
I’m using resin I’m experienced with
Haven’t had any luck on different resins either
I tried re-sanding the bed on a perfectly flat surface to 220grit

I’m at a loss.... any ideas?

翻譯年糕

Hi Guys, new to the group and just about to start my first test print, however instead of the regular resin I have the translucent green eco resin.

I heave heard to check the bed is leveled it is best to print the test latice cube however since the exposure times and whatnot are set within the print file itself I was wondering if this test will still work with the eco resin or if it is only configured for use with the standard resin the printer usually ships with?

Can I still use the latice cube with the eco resin or is there a better test file I should use?

Sorry if the question sounds stupid, I am completely new to 3D printing, also sorry if this question has been asked before, I did a quick search and could not find anything that answered the question.

翻譯年糕

Last time I printed my ocarina, in anycubic clear, I had the layer thickness at .1, bottom exposure set to 60, normal exposure set to 15, and the project came out very yellow, and took 8 hours.

I want to speed it up, and get rid of the yellow hue, as much as possible. I'm considering a second print at 50 bottom exposure, and 10 normal exposure. Should take about 6 hours. Would this be cutting too many corners, or nah?

翻譯年糕