Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

Having alot of trouble with my new resin elegoo transparent green can't get the base layer to pop off the deep tried 50,80,120 bottom exposure just won't pop off gonan try releveling the plate and do a expo test (never done it before) weird the plate doesn't look like it's come out of level but can't hurt to check

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Figured I would post this here since it's kind of stumped me a little bit. I started getting random layers every 50 layers or so. Sat and watched the screen is it printed a file and sure enough every so often I would get an exposure like you see in the picture. Since I've never had any experience with these LCD screens dying I wasn't quite sure what to expect. I guess I kind of thought they would just get a hole burned through them and blocks wouldn't work anymore. Seems strange that it would only happen every so often. Either way I replaced the screen last night and now I'm back to running perfectly again. The third picture is the same file printed on the old LCD vs printed with the new LCD screen. Seems like that was the problem. All of the connection seem nice and tight when I took the old LCD screen out so I don't think anything was loose and causing it. Had my printer since mid Dec so only a little over 3 months old. If anyone is interested this is the LCD screen that I replaced it with from Amazon.
ELEGOO 5.5'' Inch 2K LCD for Mars 3D Printer with 2560x1440 Resolution and Tempered Glass Protection, Sharp LS055R1SX04 Light Curing Display with MIPI Connector, Compatible with Anycubic Photon https://www.amazon.com/…/B07X586JHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9L…

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Hi guys, juste received anycubic clear resin... so I run the modified photon s exposure test... runs out very difficult to read with clear resin

Any help would be absolutely appreciated. For info previous green anycubic that came with printer was 8 sec exposure perfect
Thanks

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these are my support settings for the prusa slicer. i only use the slicer to add supports then export the stl with supports. this is for miniatures that are for printing directly on the build plate. they are ultra thin and leave hardly any marks and easy to remove. i gave the settings as pics so you know what you need to change. rather then just import my config file. hope this helps some of you. this is a tried and tested and works. i use auto then i clean them up manually.

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So after printing successfully all week, last night I turned in a 9hour print, as I am always hesitant, I set an alarm to check on it about 3 hours in...when I got up there was nothing at all on the build plate, so of course I stopped it and started to clean it out assuming there would be a large hefty boy on the Fep... but there wasn't, nothing at all on the fep either... What would you guys say would be the cause? I was like oh no, was the file 'floating or something?' Not from what I see. or maybe the LCD came loose nope, turned on a exposure test just to see if the UV came on and it did... I'm genuinely confused. Picture is to shoe the file.

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Does enyone have experience with 3dPartnershop.com ? I am trying to order some resin but I keep ending up on a SPAM site. Also tried to emailing them on the info adress but the emails don't get delivered. Feels very untrustful or they are hacked.

UPDATE:
Since Siraya Tech confirmed that they are the official partner I contacted them via the contact page. They replied to me on Sunday and after sending them more info and screenshots they found a problem in the page cashed. They resolved it immediately and Sunday evening I was able to order (since the offer payment with PayPal I felt without any risk). This morning DPD showed up with my package. So to answer my own question, yes you can order there;)

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I duno if anyone already tried this but I'll just put it here. I m using monocure clear and kinda lazy to switch resin colors so instead I use a syringe. Get water add a few drops of ink and filled it into the hollowed models. After that cover up the hole with resin. It also give the hollowed model extra weight.a month in and I haven't seen any damage. I also use clear coat after.

如果有人已經嘗試過這個, 我就把它放在這裡. 我用單調清白, 有點懶惰來換樹脂顏色, 所以我用注射器. 拿水加幾滴墨水, 然後填入空洞的模特. 然後用樹脂遮住了洞. 它也給空洞的模型額外重量. 一個月了, 我還沒有看到任何傷害. 之後我也用乾淨的外套.

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I recently had a pretty bad print failure (used a different resin and didn't get the exposure settings right). I have to replace my FEP and I'm wondering, should I re level the build plate as well?

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My macbook just died and I was running exposure test with anycubic eco resin, any way to tweak the exposure settings directly on the printer? I guess no but just asking

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When it rains it pours I guess?

Just put in a new LCD and new FEP for my Original Photon and I'm getting cured resin on the FEP after a print, the weirdest part is that these seem to have zero relation to what I'm actually printing, they just show up strewn across the FEP as seen in the first pic. I would deal with this to some degree if my prints were also coming out like hot blurry garbage as per the second pic with the Good version of the right and blurry garbage on the left.

Running 4.2.18 and currently doing a "dry run" print to see if I can spot the exposure for these weird "islands" but they're so damn thin they must be o ly a few layers if that. The print quality might be linked to the new FEP, gonna drain the vat and recheck the tuning but still seems a little extreme.

Any ideas?

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