Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » youtube

Hi Guys,
First time posing here. Got my printer last week and this is my first resin printer. I have been printing with FDM for over 3 years now and i am well versed there.
I have read through a ton of info and watched a lot of youtube guides and videos to prepare as best as i can for the different experience that is resin printing. Nonetheless i still have some practical questions to which i have not seen answers for.
Currently in the middle of printing the Anycubic testcube that came with the printer and so far it seems to go fine. In my head i am already thinking what model i would want to try next to have an actual interesting print and following questions popped into my mind:
Do i have to clean out / drain and filter the reamining resin after a print from the vat before starting a new one? I understand that the slightest particle that may not have adhered to the model may ruin my next prints so based on that i thought i probably need to drain the vat and clean it out between each print? Or is that only something you need to do if you have failed prints? A lot of guides advise you to hollow out your models for various reasons. Reducing resin used, reducing suction forces on the fep with not having a big massive model (together with air vents) etc. But my question is: Is it really always advisable to hollow out every print? I.e.: If i would print a miniature figure which barely has any place to hollow out anything does it still make sense? I get it that for large prints with big surface areas and such it really makes sense to hollow out the print but i am not sure if there is really a necessity or benefit for smaller items. so i am looking for some guidelines here. In combination with point 2 i also saw that hollowing out models gives you basically another problem because you now also have to account for the empty space inside the model where you can now also have islands that you need to support. What is the best way forward here? Do you then really go into the model and also manually start to patch up each potential island inside the model with supports or do you set a good infill rate with chitubox and that solves the problem or what is the general recomendation here?
Thanks in advance! 翻譯年糕

Looks like the Photon S has had a few minor upgrades https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-Tvj0tVU4E 翻譯年糕

Here is a link to a video of the Anycubic Wash& Cure not working properly anyone else have this issue ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgmWyV67YDM 翻譯年糕

hello, just got my photon and i want to level it. i am doing it like that:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEaNVfT8y9w&feature=youtu.be

the problem is: when i try to make the build plate "flat" with the screen. i go down when the paper doesnt move easy , puhsing down the buildplate and then i tighten up the screw, after that i home and then i see, that the Gap which remain at home on the backside of the buildplate is much more than in the front, how can that be possible? tried 2 times, always the same...

你好, 剛拿到我的光子, 我想把它升級. 我這樣做:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEaNVfT8y9w&feature=youtu.be

問題是: 當我試圖用螢幕使構建板"平 當紙不容易移動的時候, 把建築板拉起來, 然後我收緊螺絲, 然後我回家, 然後我看到, 留在家裡的後面的差距遠遠超過了. 前面, 這怎麼可能? 試過2次, 總是一樣...

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I was having Z Wobble issues with my printer and took it apart using the Anycubic youtube video. I fixed the Z wobble but now I can't seem to get prints to not stick to FEP.

I've done a bunch of prints before and never had any issues that releveling the bed didn't fix but for whatever reason now it's not working. I've also tried re-slicing and move things around on the plate but no better results.

This was the best print I was able to do out of maybe 5 tries. The shoes at the bottom were attached to the FEP but the sword almost printed fine except it looked like the far-right support was stuck on the FEP till the end of the print.

Using 75% Monocure rapid grey 25% Flex 100

Any ideas?

翻譯年糕

Got my printer yesterday. Calibrated it with the manufactures paper method. Boom success~ Loaded my first models in ChiTu Box (after watching a million youtube videos on proper support settings) Ran them through the Photon File Validator, manually fixed the islands. First print failed because I had bottom layers on 40. Bumped to 80 and tried again... That print should be done in an hour, so far is looks awesome, it's holding on to the plate and I filled the whole plate for this print. (6 tavern tables for my D&D campaign) :p

My advice for total noobs like myself. Read everything this group has to offer. Take your time and put in the work, there aren't any trick shortcuts to good prints. Took me about 2 hours setting up supports for my first print, but ill get faster :p

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Which image do you prefer? This is to be used as a youtube video thumbnail to be released soon

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Does anyone know why this is happening? I checked all my connections and everything is plugged in like it should be. I'm also on 4.2.18 firmware. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TC6L4085sLI 翻譯年糕

Had LCD (the one for UV, not the touch screen one) issues and replaced it using the youtube tutorial from the company.

Afterwards, the touch screen stopped working. First time firing the machine up after installing new LCD and the display seemed fine but touching it did nothing. Made sure there was nothing disconnected inside and tried to fire it up again. This time it gives me a "Parameter Error" message. I click the only available button "Yes" and it does nothing.

Any ideas wtf is goin on here?

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Ok, I’ve never done the exposure test everyone is always talking about. Mainly because I’ve only used elegoo green to this point (been through about 8 1l bottles of it) but I’ve decided to switch to the grey as I think it’ll show in pictures better since I sell the stuff I print.

I watched a YouTube video on the exposure test, is it as complicated as it seems to get the file set up to print? I mean he sliced it in chitu, which I’ve never downloaded or used, only used chitubox. And then opened it in something else and make a ton of other changes. Is that right?

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