Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » AI

so i paint miniatures as context, first thing it looks like your using citadel contrast, you need a primer for them, i suggest going with army painter or ak interactive (best one is their airbrush primer, grab an iwata neo gravity feed airbrush from ho bby lobby and an air brush compressor from harbour freight) get a white base coat as thats what it is desgined for. for her blue zero suit i would prime that part black then do a paint called stormhost silver, a super bright silver. take either calth blue candy or talssar blue and apply that thinned out in layers, until the right look is achieved. an airbrush helps a lot with this. for her outer armor i would do another layer of stormhost silver and then try an orange contrast paint. her blaster would just leave gunmetal. and add some detailing in the recesses with clath blue. her hair i would prime white then do wither seraphim sepia or a yellow contrast paint with highlights. her skin is tricky. for a kinda fair skin i would do a thinned out layer of reikland fleshshade and highlight with a fair skin tone like pallid wytch flesh

An air brush isn’t necessary, although I love mine.

Are all of you paints contrast? If you have normal paint, and all of the primary colors (Red, Yellow, Blue) as well as a black and white for brightness, then you can get any color you want with mixin g. Then you can finish the model without needing to break isolation.

You could probably mix contrast paint too, but I’m not very experienced with it. I have two pots of it, but it was just because I wanted to try it.

Look up a color wheel with help mixing paints. A quick tip, gradually add new colors. Mixing too many pigments will quickly become brown.

I have all the contrast paints and they mix very well! I'll even water down and add normal dropper paint if I need to.

Pretty much. I have basic wraithbone paint and brown paint but everything else is contrast

Also thank you for the , input!

They make a resin slicer?

They use 1 slicer for their FDM and resin machine.

Well all I can tell you is not to auto support! And then you may be able to change the contact size and depth.

Whack the density up to 200%

I understand what are you saying. But I want know why some people can print perfectly with only PrusaSlicer's auto orientation and auto support lol

still the same ?

Chitubox auto support gave me this

Sometimes I add the following steps...
Export from Prusa with supports
Import into Chitubox
Go into the supports tab
Set to raise the model 0mm
Set the density low
Generate extra supports in Chitubox

Basically, double up, but keep Prusa's orientation and stuff, because that seems pretty reliable

Reggie Grahita Adhyatmaka Djatnika Thanks

What do you do about the raft?

this would fail. the lowest supports are to small. in the support section top right corner Z-height lift or something like that default is 5 set it to 7 or 8 then redo the supports.

same with the prusa slicer you need to raise the model of the bed more so it can form the minimum support length.

Reggie Grahita Adhyatmaka Djatnika I usually leave it. I like the little angled lip it gives... makes it easier to remove the print

Just finished printing. Just as you said, the bottom section was failed

How do I raise the model in prusa? Everytime I tried to move it to z axis, it return the the plate

EDIT: Never mind, found it

what was it. as i cant remember and i am sure me and others would like to know :)

Cannot fully see the part but something like that would surely print straight off build plate

In print settings, you go to support section and turn off the "pad around object" to be able to edit the object elevation below it.

The part is like this

Hi
Which stl is it I want to make one for my oldest

Keith Douglas Ahlstrom https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4038181

Please please please tilt it. The very bottom of the base is uneven and my first attempt failed because of that

I made this for my mom, your's looks great! I wish I had thought of doing that thing with the eyes.

Thanks

Mika Gruszka thanks

William Tatum I used a white gel pen for the shines on the eyes. XD it's my go to for adding shinies and it turns out it works on craft paint

The light could be failing. It's a consumable part and will start to go bad after a while of use.

If I have any suspicion that’s there’s chunks

Every failed print or if I think something might have broken off in there. Otherwise, there is no need.

I only do it when I put it back in the bottle or maybe a fail

after every print.

Only on failures and then only when I'm not positive I've removed everything

Only if after inspection of the print I notice an issue. And when I swap colors

Sometimes Ill gently run the spatula along the bottom to see if I can feel anything stuck to the fep. If not, I don't strain

i drain the vat after every print or else the complaints department goes into overdrive about the smell

Maybe after 10-15 prints. Or if it's a spectacular failure

There's really no reason to. If you suspect there are chunks of cured resin you can use the detection tool on 40-60s, then scoop the thin sheet of cured resin out and voila, you have no chunks left. I only do it if I'm changing the resin.

Why do u need to tighten it so much? Handtight would do. The screw is the thing that holds the vat down. Not the silver thing.

That is not the bed That screw simply holds the vat in place.

yes, i mean I can't tighten it all the way down, it stucks in the middle

I can't tighten that screws by hand, thats why I have to use the wrench

Sounds like you cross threaded it somehow or some resin cured in the threads. Probably resin.

So the vat is still moving around after u screw it as much as u can?

Mike Fatchett how can i clean the resin inside

if you can get the screw out you could put some IPA in there but empty the vat first and clean all the other resin out of it.

Give it two uhga uhgas

Michael Lee right now I'm using wrench to tighten it down, the vat looks fine, not moving

Mike Fatchett ok thanks

huh

Clean the threads with Ipa (or your preferred cleaner. I bet resin got on them

As long as it isn't moving it's fine. I don't think mine goes all the way down either.

Bao Huynh most likely you cross threaded it. You need a tap and die kit to fix the threads

You know the silver part doesn't move don't you? There will always be a gap.

My photon hase the exact same issue, apperantly ( according to anycubic) my motherboard is broken ( brand new mashine) its getting replaced under warranty

Yes, it is definitely a motherboard. You should contact Anycubic

Thanks for the confirmation. I'll order a new board, im sure delivery times are slow at the moment. Might as well get it going.

from the vanhelsing movie?

Sean Croteau Constantine

Sean Croteau Like Shawn Barnes said, Constantine with Keanu Reeves.

I saw them around the same time, so the specifics are fuzzy for me.

JOHN Constantine!

Dieter Bürgy

Don't know why, but first picture at a glance I thought it was some kind of empire space cathedral ship from battlefleet gothic.

Ernest Sandridge Ill Haha on a black background maybe.

love it...is the stl public???

This is AMAZING.

Such an underrated film

Kevin Lau Ye it really is.

Natasha Kerensky No sorry its on my Patreon.

looks like the angel gun from constantine?

where'd u get the model? i have the original file from the film. buddy of mine who worked on the film sent it to me in trade for pazuzu's 3d print file from the tv show i worked on.

NICE PRINT btw.

Adil Muschelewicz It is and its my model. Your talking about the stunt version though arent you?

John Colt Hendricks Thanks dude.

Daniel Lilygreen Its the print file not sure I never had time to print one. It’s on an old HD’s somewhere. He said was modeled In solid works or some shit. And they had him
3D print it. Dudes like 10 years older than me. So when I worked on Constantine he reached out. I wanna say. He does the 3D printing now for Batnthesun. And we’re working on some red hood pilot now.

I’m the Adil from the 3D print. Com article. Lmk if you want any of those. I kept the rights to every one we did for the show. Might as well print an icon of pazuzu

ahh cool dude would be great to see how close it is to my attempt at it. Awesome that sounds so cool.

Daniel Lilygreen it’s spot fucking on if not better

Daniel Lilygreen make sure to add me and dm me. I’ll send homeboy the screenshot. He’ll love to see that.

Adil Muschelewicz haha thanks dude, I used every picture I could get my hands on and used a lot of pictures of the stunt version that was up ffor sale on the Prop Store some time ago. Ye dude will do.

Daniel Lilygreen welcome to the family

Why not first find the right settings for 1 model and then add more to the plate ? saves you a lot of resin ?

Kevin Lems do far the photon classic has no real way to dial up the resolution. I should have printed it on the S. And I print in bulk because I sell kits. So I need to take that chance. It's worth it in the end. I have 8 resin and 2 filiment printers that run 24/7 365. This stuff happens! But I print at least 100 things a week.
It's part of the process.....I call it success from failures!

Robert Small haha my bad ? tought it was a first time failure ? but in your case I can understand it's worth taking the risk ? what kind of kits do you sell of I may ask? ?

Kevin Lems I'm in the process of designing kits out of early manned space race this was a never realized x20 Dyna-Soar that Boeing had proposed and was to be our first space vehicle before the Mercury space capsule but once Russia launched Gagarin into space we dropped the project for mercury

Looks amazing! ? must be a really fun project to work on ?? did you design the models and parts yourself?

Yes I have been in 3D graphics since 1988.

Damn! You must have a ton of experience! Can I borrow some? ? ? I've just started using Blender and Forger (ipad) for making sculpts and models. Wich programs do you use?

I've used almost every program out there without exaggerating but I can tell you the newest version of Blender is more capable then anyone under designing nuclear reactors could need!
As a matter of fact the new version I notice is starting to mimic al l of the other 3D programs combined. Since it's an open source software hundreds of thousands of us have been making suggestions because we have been using blender and everybody else's program. So you can imagine I highly recommend blender for two reasons it's easy to use and a comprable program costs nothing under than $1,500 a year just to use.
So let that sink in a comprable program to Blender say 3D Studio Max charges you $1,500 a year it is not a one-time cost.

Nice! Thanks for the info ?? gonna stick with Blender ?? it has a lot of functions but there are also a lot of tutorials to follow. So I will keep working with it ?

Kevin Lems let me know if you need help.
I'll point you to instruct if I can.

Look into DAZ if you want humans and animals. The models merge with Blender. And it's a free one also.

Robert Small I'll definitely let you know ?? thanks!

Not sure what you mean? The photon and the s are both capable of the same resolution: looks like your exposure is a problem

Scott Pavlich no...no...my slicers say different. There are no resolution settings to effect the resolution. Even in Chitubox that feature drops off the the classic setting so your ony at the #4 setting as resolution. I print things with very fine detail twenty-four hours a day 365 days a year and I print over a hundred parts a week.

Disagree: you can only print so well with a 2K resolution screen. I can pull equally as well with both my S’s and my reg photons regardless of the slicer

Scott Pavlich cool

Robert Small please explain as i am keen to understand if there is a real difference between the machines or clippers. do you use chitubox for both?

Jim Monty no it's really a few things like how old the screen is. Because I print so much it's most likely that the screen is becoming what turns out to be out of focus. So the slicers settings are no help. I have changed 15 screens in 2 years. And u n otice as time goes buy one if the signs your gear is at the end of life in that screen is what's in this shot.
Plus in 3d (I've been using 3D software since 1988) you're looking at what's called a point cloud and it is what its name defines your 3D model is merely a cloud of points at any time from the transference changing it from one program to the next information can be dropped that while you see the full image on the screen the information may not transfer during the time of the slice.
I've only been doing this for the last 5 years so a tiny bit of what I'm saying is speculation.
But I have to classics two s's and 3 Elegoo Mars printers and even from printer to printer there are minut changes that's so far aren't predictable.

Which has produced the finest detail of your three types?

Jim Monty I think so far the S and the Elegoo are neck and neck. The difference is the cost in screens and noise volume. The S is more the twice the cost of the screen of the Elegoo but.... The Elegoo is real loud! The Anycubic is more restrictive when it comes to access to the interior and the Elegoo is the simplest to level. It's like any tool. You learn in time how you can make the printer do what you want.

Tip time. With a 3D object because the skin changes in dimension of the object simply rotating it in a different orientation in the slicer can sometimes clean up the model.
So by simply going into the slicer in rotating the model into directions you might not think you would want to use or it might be a problem to clean up is sometimes what saves the project.

All of these 5.5" printers have the exact same screen. Some just have different connector ribbons but the screen itself is the same.

Nipuna Gunarathne Thank you.