Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » Google

Hi guys,

I got no print success since I started using the anycubic black.

With anycubic green I had no problems.

Already configured according to Google spreedsheet, but also did not work.

Also I tried on my own configurations, but without success. All complete with some defect or missing edges.

Initially, the side where the supports are "fat" and the corners are rounded, as if the resin accumulated during work had also been cured. It decreases the exposure time, it didn't work.

Bad resin?

I looked here in the group, but I didn't find anything relevant that would give me a solution.

Anyone using anycubic black who can give me a settings that works?

Anycubic Photon

Firmware version: 4.2.19.3

Slicer: Chitubox 1.6.3 (same problem in previous versions).

Resin: Anycubic Black (7/11 2020)

Slicer settings for black resin: Google Spreedsheet and others (all failed).

Good quality USB pen drive (same problem using anycubic pen drive)

翻譯年糕

Hi Guys, this link: http://statusavailable.pt/auctions/ is in Google sheet "Anycubic Photon Resin Settings"...but when I want to order it, 404 error appears. Probably this page doesn't work at all? :) 翻譯年糕

So I see this happing more and more lately, so when helping a new user with resin settings please keep in mind to check if they have the Photon or Photon S.

Because I keep seeing people telling people there settings they use (clearly photon settings) when the user as a Photon S. Exp times are much lower than the Photon eg grey on photon is more 80 bottom and 11 normal, on the S it’s more 30 bottom and 6 normal.

So the advise is normal only going burn the LED out faster then it should but you going give very overexposed prints or by ramping up the bottom time you might be getting a print to stick for them but the high bottom time is hiding the fact they have another problem like the FEP needs to have more tension or the level is not fully right.

So please don’t just drop photon exp times or the photon google doc to people needing help with a Photon S.

翻譯年糕

Hi there!
Question / Help:
Has anybody else experienced this in a print before? I checked the FAQ and googled it, but no luck.
A random rectangular hole in the print, and bizarre fibres coming out on the inside in a different location and layer height almost as if it was printed with an FDM printer... it's very strange :/
Yet to have a single print that wasn't the anycubic test model actually print without something weird like this

Printed on: Anycubic Photon
The STL: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2609090
Sliced on: Anycubic Photon Slicer v1.3.6
Resin: Anycubic Black
Flashdrive: Not the included one

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Hi everyone. I'm loving the quality of prints I get, and it's great being able to use it for D&D minis. I'm trying to get more quality from them by lowering the layer height shown on the Google sheet. I'm using anycubic gray and black mostly, but I also have the default translucent green and clear.

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Edit: Do you have experience with AnyCubic ECO macaroon blue resin?

I’ve been working with AnyCubic’s plant based blue resin on my Photon S. (Going to switch to grey) Been slicing with ChiTuBox.

I feel like I’m getting closer to the settings needed to produce high quality/definition minis, but I’m definitely not done yet.

I found a spreadsheet docs.google.com/…/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L8…/edit…
This suggests I should be using 0.05mm layers, 12sec exposure with 5secs off, 70sec bottom exposure with 8 bottom layers.

I didn’t care for the results of those settings since I could see the layers and a lot of details were washed out.

I played with a number of settings and settled on this recently.

0.02mm layers height, 12 second exposure with 2 second delay, 70 second bottom exposure, 10 bottom layers

Had to reduce the delay so my print times weren’t so long. But I also discovered more support failures with the longer delay for some reason.

By the way, I’ve really only been at this about a month and I’ve had some good success but I want it to be even better. I also manually add supports to all of my prints, never use auto, and that increased my number of successful prints dramatically.

Note, my completed models required a lot of cleanup with an exacto blade to increase details. Each unit has at least 45mins under the blade and file.

Any suggestions that might help?

翻譯年糕

Because of amount of requests i get im strugling to keep track of them in Facebook so please read this post and if you want to purchse my kit fill my Google Form https://forms.gle/BCrzUGEbLjXesA2c9

This way i wont loose any of you. Facebook started blockin people as spam in my PM. Everyone who didnt get replys from me use the form please. I will go through each request in order of application. TY.

Please be patient it may take some time!

Hello everyone! Im about a year in Resin 3D printing with my Original Photon. And I had many issues with delamination at the end or in the middle of process. So drew and printed my 4 point Build plate leveling upgrade first from plastic in my FDM printer. Yes, the design is northing new. There are several ways to do it. And im not the only one who offers this upgrade. This is my variant and it proved it self good. I done in my way and been testing it and tweaking over 6 months and my printing experience was superb. Then i thought why not make it in metal and forget about swaping it from time to time when it breaksHello everyone! Im about a year in Resin 3D printing with my Original Photon. And I had many issues with delamination at the end or in the middle of process. So drew and printed my 4 point Build plate leveling upgrade first from plastic in my FDM printer. Yes, the design is northing new. There are several ways to do it. And im not the only one who offers this upgrade. This is my variant and it proved it self good. I done in my way and been testing it and tweaking over 6 months and my printing experience was superb. Then i thought why not make it in metal and forget about swaping it from time to time when it breaks or stretches.

So i designed a CNC version from aluminum. I made 1 for my self showed it to friends in my country and they all said "Shut up and take my money". So i started making some for those who want one the same upgrade. After some time i decided why not offer my upgrades to more people here in facebook because i read posts in this group and one of the most popular problems - delamination or nothing sticking to build plate.

First post got my PM flooded asking for prices. So with the aproval of Vinicius Silva i will post Price and conditions right in the post so that you could PM me if you want to order one for your self. I will try to answer all questions in this post. It is very tyring to answer the same thing to all of the people. No offense.

So for those who wonder what it is for and what are the benefits i explain:

Anycubic is the only one (to my knowledge) who uses ball joint build plate leveling mechanism, other companies use 4 point leveling and there is a reason for it:

1) Ball joint leveling mechanism is faulty on some stock Phonots. When you tighten the set screw - the buld plate moves away from being horisontal by some hundreds of mm. It is hard to see if you dont look for this specificaly. And that is main reason for most of delaminations. 4 point leveling does not let buld place to do that.

2) Ball joint mechanism is hard to tighten strong because you rist to strip the set screw. So you always have an opportunity to ruin the level of buld plate.

3) Stock level can be ruined in cases:

- pressing hard on build plate whyle cleaning and holding it by top part

- Pressing hard on buld blate whyle cuttng of some strongly stuck prints

- When printing a part with big contact surdace with fep on 1 half of buld plate and some smaller parts on other side. While lifting up buld plate gan unlevel because of big part need more force to unstick from fep. (If you hear popoing sounds that is when part stick to fep film and build platform pulls it of the fep while going upward.

Unleveled build plate can be dangerous for the screen. If level is way off it can crush the screen.

Some benefits of the kit:

1) Much more relible printing (more successful prints)

2) Less resin waste (less failed prints)

3) You can squeez a few more mm in Z height (not a big deal but may be usefull)

4) you can overfill your vat for Longer unattended prints if you add a little bit of silicon sealant around the holes on build plate where 4 long screw enter the plate.

5) Almost impossible to ruint the leveling. No need to fear hard pressing while cleaning ot cutting prints of the build plate

6) Super easy procedure of leveling.

7) You can tighten bolts as mucj as you can. It is "buletproof" and will last a lifetime.

The kit price is (in tree popular currencies)

50 USD +10USD for shipping. (60usd in total)

or

45.5euro + 9euro for shipping (54.5euro in total)

or

38.5GBP + 7.5GBP (46GBP in total)

Same shipping rate will be from 1-5 kits. More than five will cost a bit more.

I accept PayPal or bank transfer (i give requisites)

Kit includes An instruction manual of how to install and level build plate with pictures. (In English).

I send using regular post with all way tracking.

( i have experience of sentding to Italy and England and there were no problems, tracking worked all the way)

My first post was deleted because i failed to do it correctly. This time i hope it is right.

Yo can visit my instagram (link in my profile) and see for yourself that im not a scam. Im more than 5 years in 3d printing in total (FDM) One year doinf Resin printing.

This post was authorized by Vinicius Silva
# anycubic # photon # anycubicphoton # photonS # resinuv # sla # upgrade # photonupgradekit # kit # upgradekit

翻譯年糕

Hello,

What is the "off time" of the google doc for? I use Chitubox and I'm not sure if it correspond to "light off delay" or soemthing else. Also what does it means?

Thank you

你好,

Google doc的"休息 時間"是甚麼? 我使用chitubox, 我不確定它是否與"熄燈 延遲"還是soemthing. 還有甚麼意思?

謝謝

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What is the off time from the google doc in chitubox V1.6.3?
Is it light-off delay?

翻譯年糕

Has anyone used elegoo transparent green on their photon and can recommend decent exposure settings for printing with it? I usually refer to the Google doc most people use but it doesn't seem to list said resin

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