Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » TIP

Anyone have any tips on why a print would get stuck to feel halfway through?

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Please help me if I am reading the exposure test correctly. I did a slow-resin test file - resin-test-50u.B150.6-60.photon. I want to print at 0.1 layer resolution. Column 3 is the first one giving me ok looking results for the top bubbles corresponding to 0.1 layer resolution. Then I multiply by 6, giving me 18 sec minimum exposure. Looks like if I print with exposure 18-20 it should be good? Don't want to waste the expensive resin, so would like to get it right.

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I know i should have taken a picture of mine but I didn't before i left the house for work and right off the start i see two things that are wrong. I am sure there are a bunch of minor issues but I know that these two things are supposed to be pretty standard issues. I think it has to do with exposure settings.

The tip of the space needle is missing and the inner most row of the pin lines it all warped and curled up. Before I run another test are these issues caused by under or over exposure. I am using Elegoo Grey. I printed using the test print in the Resin XP finder folder so 50u 8x80 and 15. the 8x80 is way too much. The bottom layers are stuck like glue lol. I am going to drop that to 70. The test strip looked like 12 sec but I didn't adjust the print (I know) so if this is a typical sign of overexposure I know I can drop it to 12 and see. I assume it is.

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Further adventures in Photon chainmail. Episode two of many...

After the success of my 5-way and 3-way mail patterns, I re-visited my 6-way pattern to make it a bit tougher. I've remodelled it to have rings that are (I think) about 1.3mm cross section, so they're quite a lot more robust - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3460640

The main experiment I did today was in knitting together multiple swatches to see whether making a bracelet (or even something larger) from multiple swatches is feasible.

I printed and fully post-processed the first swatch. I printed and washed the second one, but did the joining before I cured it. I went through with a set of side-cutters and nipped the 15 rings down the side of the soft swatch. I knitted them together, which wasn't too bad with a pair of tweezers, then I painted a dot of resin on each of the cuts and zapped them with my UV torch to re-join them. All in all, I think this is a 85% successful effort. Of the 15 rings I needed to cut and re-join, 12 survived the experience. One snapped when I was trying to knit it, and two snapped after they got glued to their neighbours with the resin.

Next step I think will be to print the splits into those rings as an 0.3mm gap or therabouts. Basically large enough I don't need to bend the rings as much, but small enough that the resin's surface tension will let it take up the gap.

I've chucked the 6-way up on Thingiverse for anyone who wants to try it. I've laid the pattern out so they mate end-to-end straight up, and side-by-side with only a small offset: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3460640

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Hi Photonsters,

anyone familiar here with Druckwege Type-D (unpigmented) resin?
Are there any hints, tips or tricks to share with me and the community?

Thanks in advance.

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Hey Folks,

Does anyone know of a way to check what wavelength your curing lights are *actually* running at?

I've got 3 different UV light sources. A little LED Torch, a 6-light LED nail curer, and 5m of UV LED striplight. All 3 sources were advertised as 405nm lights. All three look significantly different to the eye. The torch looks really deep blue, like an old-school black-light flouro tube, and seems to work the best. The nail light looks whiter, and doesn't seem to do quite as much (Definitely got multiple LEDs per chip package), and the strip light is almost pure white with a hint of blue, and seems to be the 'weakest' of the three.

The only test I've been able to come up with is to stick a drop of fresh resin on a card, hit it with the light, and observe how quickly/violently it goes off.

Does anyone know whether there's a more sensible/reliable method to test them?

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I got some issue printing shape like dice, they end up squished, 1st batch were all flat on platform and were squished so 2 face were bigger as it flatten, 2nd try they ended up on some kind of an angle (used support this time)

I printed mini with no issue at all but cant seem to get a cube...

any tips ? Thank you

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Hi All
Could this white smear on the vat bed be causing my problems.
Ive had multiple print fails lately. only ones that surviving is small ones.prints falling off the bed

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Temple of The Unified Build Plates of Photonia.
PSA

The past several weeks, over on the Phrozen groups, a rash of premature LCD failures in the Shuffle machines have been reported.

The LCD failures were Initially downplayed by Phrozen, and some owners, as being due to user failure instead of an inherent design flaw.

Phrozen has finally acknowledged that it is likely a combination of both factors by publishing some tips on how to prevent LCD damage on the Shuffles.

How does this affect the Photon? Both machines share similar designs; a UV light engine through an LCD mask. The main differences being that the Shuffles use a higher wattage UV LED array (Paraled) and unprotected LCD screens versus the Photon with a low wattage single source UV reflector cone and tempered glass protected LCD screens.

In comparison to the Shuffles, the Photons hardly suffer from premature LCD failures. Therefore based on the differences above, one can conclude it is probably due to less heat build up, and less mechanical stress on the Photon LCD screens.

The tips to help prevent LCD damage published by Phrozen can also be applied to help extend the already long lifespans of the Photon LCDs.

They are :

1. Avoid "rapid" curing resin. Abnormally high heat generated by very fast curing resins can cause permanent damage and dead pixels on the LCD.

2. Avoid resins that require very long initial (bottom) layer exposures. Again, high heat exposures will damage the LCD.

3. Keep resin, FEP and build plate clean at all times. Always check if the build plate, resin in vat and FEP film are free from cured resin before printing or leveling. This will help prevent mechanical (pressure) damage to the LCD.

4. Do not clean the FEP film with the vat on the LCD. Pressure from a scraper can cause permanent damage to the LCD. Remove the vat from printer before you clean the FEP film of stuck prints.

Sacrifice moar! Photonia thanks you.

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So I just got my Photon, and before I got I played around withthe original Slicer and Chitubox and I really like Chitubox better. Can someone share their support settings? And please share any relevant information, tips and tricks on placement. I'm coming from FDM printers so this is a little different.

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