Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » IDE

Is this any good by itself or does it need to be used with a surgical mask underneath?

mhm i have to question like SLA is really usefully for air tight stuff so its a bit waistfull to use the resin for parts that would be better printed on an FDM machien

Glenn Mcfadden I have to agree. FDM is the only way to go for printing out these safety mask thingys. PLA is way less brittle and generally easier to print.

Alex Weitzman it’s just a shield so yes, you would require a surgical/N95 mask in addition.

Unless you are a medical professional their is little to no need for a face shield.

Clearly not a Walmart shopper,. thinking of making this a permanent thing when this blows over

Lol, I thought it was cheese

I had something similar and what I discovered was that a job would complete but then the next would fail because of resin left on the fep from the successful one. Not 100% cured but enough to make it fail.

Turned out the LCD was failing and was Curing a 'shadow' on the fep between layers when it should have been dark.

Changed the screen and it was fixed, improvement in print quality too!

That might be it. I've also emptied the vat and the fep looked fine. This is the exposure test

I think my screen failed. I turned it off and back on again and then it was acting normal...? That's so weird

Benjamin Matthew Harding mine looked fine on the exposure test but it was clesrly letting UV through when it shouldn't have.

Hmmm.. what's weird for me is it wasn't doing any uv light and then after turning it off and back on, it showed up again. If this doesn't print then I'll have to get a new screen for sure

If your screen is old (mine was 14 months old with no dead areas) you may be best doing it anyway, the improvement in print quality very noticeable!

It's only 3.5 months old, as I got it for a Christmas gift for myself.

Hmmmm, there is no saying how long each one lasts. I've heard of people having them degrade in that time though. I was just lucky.

Dang. Well thanks for your advice. We'll see what happens

Benjamin Matthew Harding Good luck,

looks very nice !

Piotr Felke thank you ?

That would be a test print that I'd actually want to keep!

It'd look good if a hammer and sickle were in the star haha

It looks heavily overexposed to me

That was my thought as well, this one was exposed at 80s bottom and 8s normal, and seemed horrible underexposed. I guess I’ll split the difference

100% I don’t know who dude was that put 18 seconds on “the sheet” but 7-8 seconds is plenty

Thats the whole purpose of a calibration test, find the sweet spot!

Following

Oh I've seen this on my feed recently too, must be going 24/7 to kick that many out or reusing some base assests etc

Chris Thompson I think it’s the back catalogue that they’ve built up. Some very similar models but some that I saw that would be great to print

It's titan forge, they have had a couple of projects come in at once so they have a lot at once

I think it was titanforge. But I also saw that it's 27 minis and a lot of bases

Alek Idol thanks Alek, I think you are right! It’s the Cyberpunk ones im after

Schlossbauer had a ton in the welcome package. Like, Chrome had a fit trying to zip and download them all so I had to go in batches of 30 or so. Was a dollar to become a patron.

Titanforge is the one you're thinking of. Though be aware that over 100 of the models included are scenic bases for minis.

They're nice bases and even just the minis are worth the price, but its a slightly misleading ad to those people expecting 180 posed figures.

Nah there was another one on my feed recently that wasnt them. I follow them on patreon already. The one i seen recently was actuyally tons of minis not bases

https://www.patreon.com/mz4250

This one maybe?

I just subscribed, haven't looked at them all but pretty cool

If you get in this month, its a TON of stuff. They released a few D&D minis, plus some Amazons in addition to the normal monthly Cyberpunk and Dragon Empire release. Well worth the 10 bucks I'd say.

Jason Pedersen as well as walls and tons of terrain

Chris Thompson castnplay typically releases 50-75 minis every month

I just signed up for them this month too. Models are awesome, but I have to admit I spiritually signed up for those fancy bases and the cyberpunk models

Brendan Wood I’ve joined but can’t seem to see where I download anything!

Check your welcome email. It should have a link?

Brendan Wood didn’t get one for some reason. Not in my junk either, oh wel

On Patreon, if you go to his page, is there a My Membership tab?

M3DM.... even some pre-supported for resin. 5.50$

Andy Johnny Young titanforge minis on left

You need thicker supports on the very bottom of the fails, then you can go thinner as you go up.

Supports failed, check the bottom of your vat.

Is that some nebulon b and lancer frigates

Yes

I can't name any offhand, but I believe so. I'm having the same problem with the brittle nature, with Warhammer and Battletech miniatures

Try soaking in hot water after cleaning but before curing then remove the supports and then cure

If you do that, can you handle them without gloves, or do you need gloves until they are cured?

Steve Landers I would recommend using gloves until cured

Steve Landers I still wear gloves until they are fully cured to be safe

And chitubox I think has easier to remove supports

Consider mixing in some flex resin.

Elegoo abs-like has yielded great results for me. I print 28mm miniatures and the elegoo stuff has a good amount of flex to it.

Steve Landers You can handle them without gloves: the part has already been “cured” by your printer...the “post-cure” as it’s properly called, enhances final properties of the resin, like hardness and tensile strength.

Syria Blu is a good choice. you can mix it with some other resins too to make them more durable.

Thanks for all of the help! I am having a lot of fun with this thing!

if you want reasonably priced resin with flexible properties. try Hero resin... https://www.3dresinsolutions.com/

Any resin is less brittle than anycubic green.

I've swapped to Elgoo Grey. Similar/better price, better durability, and way less fumes.

I've been wondering why everyone goes with green resin? Is it easir to paint? Cheaper? Or does it just come with some printers?

I would remove all the support and sand it before curing with UV

Douglas Parkinson with anycubic gray, i mix 15% flex100 to make it less brittle.

Stephen Hill that’s what is use and it’s been great.

How small did you print that? The resolution looks really low.

i use elegoo abs like translusent resin, and it's not brittle at all (i can even bend the arms of my minis, when they fall they don't break) plus it's gorgeous if i want to keep it no painted ;)

Harley Swanson it came with my printer

I can recommend buying monocure flex 100, a liter will last you almost forever, you mix it with the existing resin you have. You don't use it neat so to speak. I have tried it with delicate prints that you know will break or snap if handled in the wron g way and it is fantastic. You can have a look here to see what its about https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_orRlIUU9s and purchase from here https://monocure3d.com.au/ the product is Australian made so for the Aussies out there buy local. His prices on his resin are more than reasonable. I buy whenever he has specials going which are all the time. I buy and use his clear and white, generally the clear and tint them if I need another colour which is rare as I undercoat and paint nearly all of my models.

Harley Swanson I love it, very easy to get good settings and details. Used half a bottle of clear and couldnt get a good print

Highly reccomend elegoo ABS like resin. my grey prints can be dropped on laminate flooring and bounce no problem - not on purpose mind you :(

Nikola Pijanac What are your settings, please? 15 s layer?

60 bottom . 9 secs the rest using clear resin.

cant add multiple at once so here goes

next

one more to go

Last one, this has worked well for me, you will need to adjust as required, even though our machines are generally the same, everything always needs a little tweaking. You need to take into consideration the resin you are using etc etc.

They are between 1 and 2 inches in length. Good details for the size.

Steve Landers ok. That makes sense at that size. I have gotten good results with a model at about 3.5” and up. The bottom is a sculpted model at about 1/2256 scale.

I am using them for somewhat mass fleets with a slightly sliding scale. The Star Destroyers are 1:10000, and my smaller stuff is about 1:5000. If you don't scale a bit Corellian Corvettes are tiny and fighters are dots...

the detail can be much better

Dang! Wish I had the extra money. Great deals!

Do you know how many how many hours of prints on the photons? I’d to have to replace the screens soon after.

The photon s has a brand new screen I'd say maybe 20hours max on it. The normal photon has about 60 hours

Joel Mendoza see post below

Next Friday is my spare pay day...

Sending PM.

You can get a was n cute new for 159 with a promo code from vog on youtube

Kenny Prestia link and is it 3 day shipping?

Matt Farmer https://youtu.be/qGh7WiZ-v9Y

Promo is in the description

Kenny Prestia good deal...they used to be that price when they first dropped. Now they're up $30

Is it a Photon or a Fauxton?

Gary Hines Gary Hines

Not enough supports or supports too small

Nooo.... All pieces în The right are failure

Except support.. They print well

Has it pulled off the supports?

IT printed only The support în The right side....

Z-axis wobble?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gi5W0IQqHW8

Is the build plate securely in place? That was my issue.

Matthew Gladin yea I checked that as well. Even took it all apart cleaned it up, put a slight bit of lube on the ball, reassembled and re-leveled

Did you add resin while it was running?

Xi-Sheng Luo ya know I watched that same video and do that and it seemed to help out on other prints but it seems like this one in particular continues to shift

Thomas Harrell nope

Do you have drain holes near the base to prevent suction? At the shift point, it looks like the holes in the resin would be smaller, and potentially increasing suction force.

Noah Jefferson I haven’t modified the file at all. I’m pretty sure it’s all solid

Kris Wainwright if you didn’t hollow it, then it probably is not suction then

Try hollow with 40% inlay grid and drain holes

Alexander Bayerdorffer I’ll see what happens

Kris Wainwright Lube on the ball... euh, that makes it move easier, doesn't it?
When I dis-assembled mine, I took an 800grit sanding paper to the ball, so that the surface is rough and the screw has an easier job on holding on to the ball so the plate doesn't move at all.

Needs to be hollowed and holed like all models;)

I see that the model has been printed flat to the build plate. As the section is so large in the ground part before the houses, there is some shift due to suction forces. Try to print it at an angle like 10 or 20 degrees