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Question for Mean Green users. I tried it for the first time today, let my prints soak, shook them and brushed them; rinsed and brushed them in warm water, then cured them, but they are still very sticky. I can't tell if this is a side effect from Mean Green or if they aren't cured all the way. I used the same curing process I always have.

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Does anyone know how my screen managed to crack?

I've had no issues aside from a screen replacement about a month ago. Haven't releveled since. But today when I did a resin change I noticed the screen had several cracks in it. It didn't have this a few prints ago.

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I've been working on this for a bit and I finally have the character split up for printing. I'll have the STL for sale on Gumroad once I get everything dialed in. So far the print is roughly 7" tall and 5 pieces. I'm considering adding a necklace to cover the slice on the neck.

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Hi guys i was hoping to see if any of you know of a way to bend a stl with out deforming it. I would love to make a chainmail braclet with this printer, but they all come modeled straight so they will not fit on the build plate. So I was thinking if it would be possible to make it go in a circle then it would fit. I tried in blender and it kept deforming the stl so im lost. If any of you guys have any ideas I would be greatly appreciative

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What double sided tape tape is recommended when replacing the lcd? Need to know asap. Got a screen arriving tuesday What double sided tape tape is recommended when replacing the lcd? Need to know asap. Got a screen arriving tuesday

更換液晶顯示器時, 推薦哪些雙面磁帶? 需要盡快知道. 週二拿到了一個螢幕

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Dear all ,

im using Photon , i have a AA question , and i need have :

I have updated the AA FW for the Photon , and used AA 8 in chitubox for printing . As you can see the middle top of the print out still shows some layer lines , is my updating fail or how to fix the layer lines of the top ? it always shows on the top of every printing , the another sides r just fine.

BTW , be safe under the virus!

many thx

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‎ Michael Rieser ‎ 發文到 ANYCUBIC Photon S 3月19日下午10:20 Well this a hot mess. Changed the FEP. The anycubic video for changing FEP says to just tighten the screws down. YouTuber 3D Printing Farm says to "tune" it. Which if I was reading the the Hz right (big if) seemed very loose. I tightened it anycubic style. Then reran the same print file as before. How can I tell if my FEP is now too tight or too loose? Will adjust and rerun tonight. This time I hear the actual suction sound and ripping off the FEP which I hadn't with the old FEP. Here is a link (hopefully) to my first attempt:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10218341060571117&set=gm.931297370622581&type=3&theater&ifg=1 翻譯年糕

Any ideas why this is happening?

I have tried saving the file from fusion a couple of times and the same thing keeps happening.

It’s only on this surface

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Hallo zusammen,

Ich habe folgendes Problem: Wenn ich drucke, „flackert“ das Bild. Mein zweiter Photon macht das nicht. Beide haben die identische Datei zum drucken. Dadurch muss ich deutlich höhere Belichtungszeiten benutzen. Weis einer woran es liegt? Display ist neu, war aber mit dem alten Display genau das gleiche.

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I just posted a load of pictures showing the 1/12 Caterham model I am doing using the photon to build a lot of scratch built parts, I wanted to show the roll bar separately, to illustrate something about supports. (scroll down for the pictures!)

For those of us using the photon for more 'engineered' or 'fitted' parts, a big issue can be the distortion you CAN get around the supports - wheels can be a bugger, as any rod, cylinder or rail can sometimes exhibit 'sagging' around the support bases. People always say 'print at an angle' - but this sometimes is not the answer - (I actually try and print as much as I can direct to the plate, as I have never had any issues.)

[I don't think the support marking issue is SUCH a big deal with the incrediable organic figures people show here, as it is easier to hide any sagging, if that makes sense]

Making the roll bar for the model would involve printing 'rod' - round section or about 4mm diameter. Single supports would work, but involves a lot of sanding to try and remove the distortion or pin-marks from those supports.

This post is really about thinking laterally with supports, and considering how they might work as you design the part in the CAD software.

So for these parts, I modeled a thin 'fin' and a base within the actual CAD file (as opposed to adding supports later) - this fin (less than 1mm) supported the roll bar along its whole length, and it was very easy to sand the linear fin off the part once cured.

Sorry, a lot of text, but it may help! Pictures below, showing the fin and flat base...

我剛剛釋出了一堆照片, 顯示我正在使用光子製作很多划痕的零件的圖片, 我想單獨展示卷欄, 來說明支援的一些關於支援. (向下滾下看照片!) 你知道嗎?

對於我們中使用光子進行更多"工程"或"配件的人來說, 一個大問題可能是你可以繞過支撐的扭曲輪子可能是一個壞蛋, 因為任何桿, 氣缸或鐵路有時可以展示'的" 在支援基地周圍. 人們總是說"從 角度 列印" -但這有時並不是答案(我實際上我盡可能直接列印, 因為我從來沒有遇到過任何問題.). 你知道嗎?

[我認為支援標記問題對於人們在這裡展示的令人難以置信的有機人物來說沒甚麼大不了的問題, 因為它更容易隱藏任何下滑, 如果有道理的話]

為模型製作滾動欄將需要列印"棒" -圓形部分或直徑約4毫米. 單個支援行得通, 但需要大量打磨, 試圖從這些支援中刪除扭曲或標記.

這篇帖子真的是關於用支援的橫向思考, 並考慮在你設計cad軟體的部分時, 它們可能如何運作.

所以對於這些部分, 我在實際cad檔案中模仿了一個薄的"fin"和一個基底(而不是後來新增支援) -這個fin (不到1毫米)支援滾動欄, 而且它 一旦治癒後, 很容易把線性鰭挖出來.

抱歉, 很多簡訊, 但可能有幫助! 下面的照片, 顯示鰭和平底...

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