Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » ROS

My latest print? Titan Forge’s Amazon priestess riding giant ass pterosaur...

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Cross posted this help request to reddit as well, but want as much help as I can get :)

I'm having issues with parts warping inconsistently.
A run down of things that I've tried thus far are: Re-level bed (both paper and read method) Clean the plate and FEP Check that FEP is properly tuned Parts are angled 10ish degrees (depends on part exactly how much it's tilted) - Question on this later. Supports are auto support in Prusa Slicer then manually edited as needed. Here is a screen of the plate I'm currently trying to build: https://imgur.com/a/6ASRKE9 The two parts on the sides print fine, the center piece is my problem and warps severely and the supports are snapping off. Print settings: https://imgur.com/a/63IXEr4 Question about tilting parts... I understand that having the least amount of surface area contacting the FEP is optimal and that is why we tilt our parts, however the base portion of the supports is still flat and printing flat to the plate. Aren't we creating the same issue we are eliminating by tilting the part by having to put so many supports and essentially creating a flat raft on the plate anyway?
Edit: Using Anycubic Orange resin. 翻譯年糕

Stavros Togias please check your messages and or spam :)

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Fingers crossed. Levelling done, firmware updates, supports in prusa then into chitubox then sliced. Print time 4 hours 10 mins. So either going to be a very frustrated guy frantically shouting at a photon s or a happy one with a nice plumbus printed to share ? ? ?

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Came across these, and figured some of you may be interested in some free models.

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I'm starting to get a very thin layer of solidified resin in the bottom of the vat when I print. Not quite edge to edge, but much larger than the cross-section of the print. LCD going bad? FEP change? Re-level? Not sure what the right first step is...

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Crossposting but you guys are in the meme so I figured it was warranted.

(Cura Users refers to the group, not literally people that use the program)

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Hi ladies and gentlemen. Joined a day or three ago when a client sent me a Photon as a surprise :) Finally found the time to set it up and ready a print. I have set the auto supports to 'Thin' but otherwise used default settings across the board - just wanted to get thoughts on how this looks, too dense? obvious issues? I am not too worried about rear details at this point, I just want to find a baseline to work from. Thanks in advance.

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I customized 80mm Hades figure, minotaur shield and printed him. Need to sculpt something to wear for him though or should I leave him as he is now? I hope he will get along pretty well with his brother Zeus. Zues is not 3D printed. He is from Alexandros miniature. C and C are welcome.

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Hi Guys, this is going to be interesting.

So as you know I design a lot of scale parts for my RC helis - this means parts are exposed to vibration, elements, wind - the works.
So far for the small scale fittings I was doing prints on Anycubic Photon (Ameralabs and Siraya resins) and if something had more curviture or was bigger - Peopoly Moai.
FDM was used only for big parts. Now after finishing building my e3d tool changer I decided to optimized my Prusa MK3S for fine detail printing
- prints with ASA
- layer height of 0.05mm (most of my photon prints i do at 0.04 or 0.05)
- 0.15mm nozzle (so twice the diameter of Peopoly Moai laser, photon res is 0.047 by 0.047 but obviously this means aliasing)

I wanted to see how much detail I can get
And I do have to say - to a naked eye there is no loss of fidelity, even under a microscope the difference in detail is managable.

Prints have to be done with ABS or ASA (petg or pla may clog)
Benefits
- parts are lighter, the wire cutter on fdm was 3g vs 8g resin (ASA density is 1.09g/cm3 vs resin that is on 1.35,also can do very thing permiters i.e 0.45mm)
- parts are stronger

Drawback
- marginal loss of fidelity
- print times on average 3x of how long it would tool on photon with 12s exposure.

Oh, acetone smoothing on more organic parts - wow!
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嗨, 夥計們, 這會很有趣.

所以正如你知道, 我為我的rc hellis設計了很多比例的部件-這意味著部分會暴露於振動, 元素, 風工作.
到目前為止, 對於小型配件, 我正在任何立方體光子(ameralabs和siraya樹脂)上做列印, 如果有更多的曲線或更大的- peopoly moai.
Fdm只用於大部分. 現在完成了我的e3d工具更換器後, 我決定優化我的prusa mk3s, 以獲取細節列印
-與asa列印
-層高度0.05 mm (我的大部分光子印在0.04或0.05)
- 0.15 mm噴嘴(所以是人氣鐳射的兩倍, 光子res是0.047 by 0.047, 但這顯然意味著異化)

我想看看我能得到多少細節
我不得不說對赤裸的眼睛來說, 沒有失去忠誠, 即使在顯微鏡下, 細節上的差異是可以解決的.

指紋必須用abs或asa完成(petg或pla may clog)
年, %
-零件更輕盈, fdm上的電線切割機為3克樹脂(asa密度為1.09克/ cm3與1.35, 也可以做非常適合permiters i). E 0.45 mm
-部分更強

倒退
-一點點失去忠誠
-平均列印時間為3倍, 在光子上使用12 s曝光工具的時間.

哦, 丙酮在更多有機部件上滑-哇!
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