Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » ROS

"When orienting a part for SLA, the biggest concern is Z-axis cross-sectional area." I am not sure what that means. The article suggests that it's best to minimize that for better prints.

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Just had a print fail. The platform raft stuck to the building platform. But the rest stuck to the FEP. Realized I didn't screw down the vat. ? ?‍♂️

So I decided to start from scratch. Cleaned everything and releveled just to be safe. *fingers crossed*

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There has been some confusion between the various slicers, Anycubic Slicer, Chitu Slicer, Chitubox, and Photon Workshop.

A little story.

Chitu-CBD (CBD) and Anycubic (AC) are separate entities.

CBD's main business is OS/mainboard, firmware/software design, development and solutions for 3D printers.

AC sourced the core of the original Photon printer from CBD. The mainboard used in the original Photon is a CBD board. The original AC Photon slicer is a rebadged Chitu slicer.

CBD discontinued the original slicer (Chitu Slicer 1.3.6 and therefore Photon Slicer v1.3.6) and rebuilt a new slicer from the ground up. This is known now as Chitubox.

[Fun fact :
Chitubox integrates code and ideas first seen in the community projects VoxelOps, Validator, Rob's 3D photon Viewer and Photon File Editor Project.]

Chitubox was designed to support various printers. This includes Phrozen, Kelant, Elegoo, Sparkmaker, etc. The reason behind new Chitubox was to be a standalone slicer that would appeal to as many users across all platforms. So that they can be convinced enough to upgrade and pay for a future Pro version.

In the meantime, AC however developed their own mainboard together with their own slicer called Photon Workshop (based on Creation Workshop designed by Steve Hernandez.)

This is where the CBD and AC relationship for the Photon split. And this is also where the Photon-S entered the picture, and it was nothing like a Photon except in name.

As Chitubox was designed to support various printers, support for the S was also included in Chitubox version 1.4.0.

[ However, Anycubic then released a firmware update for the Photon-S that broke Chitubox slicing support with a proprietary *.pws file format. Thus forcing Photon-S owners to use Photon Workshop as the only slicer. ]

The original Photon can thus use the original Chitu Slicer, the Photon Slicer and Chitubox. Whereas the Photon-S can now only use Photon Workshop to slice files.

And they all sliced happily ever after. Except for the poor gimped Photon-S.

Wait. There's more. Unbeknownst to most, the little original Photon can also use the Photon Open Slicer, and it will always be free and unbeholden to anyone.
( https://github.com/Photonsters/Slicer )

But that's for another little story.

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A great FEP film for SLA (including Laser SLA, DLP and LCD) printers is available for 150um thickness here! It shows awesome performance proven by stickiness (release force), durability and clarity on vat of Photon, Sparkmaker, miniQ and Phrozen.
Both sides equipped with release function. Applicable to the current 5.5" LCD light curing machine in the markets. Thickness is 0.15mm and size is 200mm*140mm.
When shipped, each piece in a pearl bag, and then loaded into the carton envelope.

Features ......
1. Corrosion resistance - resistance on strong acid, alkali, oxidant and most solvents.
2. Thermal stability - continuous use temperature range（-193℃～260℃）。
3. Non-stick property - transparent smooth surface, not sticky.
4. Resistant to atmospheric aging - radiation resistant and low permeability. Surface and performance unchanged even long exposure.
5. Non-toxic and pollution-free - compliance with national standard of food additive.

Parameters Table as below.

https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=249763425682705&id=147444049247977&sfnsn=mo

https://jnj3d.waca.ec/en/product/detail/207865

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I'm updating the 'home' for my resin printers- To make some room.

I have to admit, I've become a bit of an addict. I just love playing with them- especially the experimental side of things. So, I've decided to start a little project.

I want to compare some different printers. I already have a Zortrax Inkspire, an Anycubic Photon, and a Kelant S400.

I'm adding a few more. I have a Phrozen Shuffle XL on the way, and probably an Elgoo Mars. I think I'm going to toss a Sparkmaker in to the mix, and possibly also an EPAX- Perhaps a few others. I'm not sure if I am going to get a Photon S quite yet- Seems they are still working on it a bit?

My main reason for doing this is that there seem to be a LOT of different machines out there, many of which seem to offer some great features. The problem with most of them, however, is that the manufacturer is the only source of information about them. Like most, I've gone the safe route until now, buying the machines that have a larger following, but now I feel like living on the edge.

I'd also like to test some different resins as well, across all the machines.

Of course, I'll be documenting the testing on Facebook, YouTube, and probably some sort of blog.

So- What kind of testing are people interested in seeing? Are there any additional machines that should be in the mix?

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Okay let me introduce you to lab one, this was my first attempt at printing your little workshop Skylab in one 96 scale. This was printed on the anet A8 printer with a 0.4 millimeter tip in pla. I had only had a month of printing under my belt and had been experimenting with using my own 3D models. Now here I am a few years later and I have since printed in resin which is represented by the silver Apollo command and service module. As many of you know this project has been a cross between a hobby and an obsession of mine. Soon it will be a finished project but to look back at the rough work with the handmade wire bent for the trust work in comparison to the fine print of the resin this is a testimony to giving something a few hundred tries before you give up!

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Getting frustrated. I have had 2 good prints out of 30 tries. I have tried the Flint Read method of leveling. I have run it through the file validator and come up roses, but I can`t get a print to succeed. I have tried 3 models at once and one model at a time. Have tried same model at 45 degree angle, base to bed, medium supports, light supports, raft, no raft, literally everything.
I have all but used up the 500mL bottle of green that came with the printer, and at $80 CAD per liter, I am throwing money away. So far, it has cost me $40 for one owlbear.
My FEP has micro scratches on it from wiping with paper towel, but when directly on a surface, they are invisible. Is the FEP that fragile? If so, what else can I use to wipe it?
Any and all help would be appreciated.
I have attached my latest failure. Sliced with ChituBox 1.4, 64bit and validated with the Photon File Validator.

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So as I print parts, some of them are detailed little buggers with tiny holes that leave no room for proper sanding...but they clearly need sanding. They're functional parts. They print with the holes and general dimensions slighty too big to fit in place.

My question -- is there an alternative to sanding that will take off a clean layer of the resin and prepare it for curing? Jewelry tumbler? Heat gun? I don't know. Doesn't matter to me if it's very slow and takes forever so long as it's not using microscopic drill bits and files by hand.

Any suggestions?

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Hello all, new to the group. Just got my Photon! This is my second print attempt. My first one came out mostly okay, 3 mini's across the build plate, had a few parts that didn't print but I chalk that up to supports, I hope anyway. This was my second attempt, Any idea why I would have only had 4 of these on one end print? No residue or bits from failed prints from the others in the vat.. Thanks in advance!

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The final version of the Corsair throttle quad. I keep obsessing over the pixelated surface, but then have to remind myself that the body itself is 3.175mm across.

0.03mm layer height
6 sec. exposure
Anycubic clear green
Photon OG

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