Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 樹脂

Hi All

Pleased to meet you :)

Recieved my Photon 3 days and a starter bottle of the Soy resin in grey.

I mainly design Silver Jewellery and replacement/mods parts for collectible toys and dioramas.

Till now I have been using Shapeways and Commercial casters for my 3D printing needs but am hoping to find a resin that will suitable for Loss wax casting.

After a bit of play starting to get some good prints.

Would I be right in saying the Soy based resin is better for organic models then high detail sharp edge model?

These where printed together and the Dragon head pendant is better then what I get from commercial casters Wax printers but the Templar ring is missing some of the sharpness . The Spartan shield is not round looks like I needed more supports at the bottom.

I guess that will do for a first post :)

大家好

很高興認識你 :)

收到了我的光子3天和一瓶灰色的大豆樹脂.

我主要設計銀珠寶和更換/ mods部件, 用於收藏玩具和dioramas.

到目前為止, 我一直在使用形狀和商業casters來滿足我的3 d列印需求, 但希望找到適合丟失蠟鑄造的樹脂.

在玩一會之後, 開始得到一些很好的指紋.

我說大豆為基礎的樹脂對有機模型更好, 然後高精細鋒利的模型嗎?

這些一起印制和龍頭吊墜比我從商業casters蠟印表機那裡得到的更好, 但聖殿環錯過了一些鋒利. 斯巴達盾牌不是圓的, 看起來我需要更多底部的支援.

我想第一篇帖子就足夠了 :)

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Is there a clear resin that doesn’t yellow? Or is there something you guys do to prevent yellowing while curing?

有沒有黃色的樹脂嗎? 或者你們在治癒的時候做了甚麼來防止黃色?

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Hi.

I've got question. I used to run Photon and decided to "upgrade" to Zortrax Inkspire some time ago. but I've got quality issues. I use original and 3rd party resins.

I've been searching they FB group and tried with customer support, but they keep saying it's either no problem or area temperature difference causing these issues...

I have funny sagging/ deformations at support-part contact point. Does anyone know what could be a reason?

I started pre-warming resin and keep 22-24C around printer, resin's well stirred (no bubbles), slowed lifting speed, increased exposure and exp time-off, new fep, tried hollowed or full body (no difference), thickened supports too (2mm pillar and 1mm tip) Printer's in stable position and all leveled.

I think it could be either mechanical issue or something is wrong with LEDs, but it's only guessing.

I understand it's different printer, but maybe someone came across similar issue and could help me to resolve it.

Thank you very much for your help.

嗨.

我有個問題. 我曾經運行photon, 不久前決定"升級" zortrax inkspire. 但我有質量問題. 我使用原創和第三方樹脂.

我一直在搜尋他們的fb組, 並在客戶支援下嘗試, 但他們一直說, 要麼沒有問題, 要麼地區溫度差異導致這些問題...

我在支援部分接觸點有滑稽的低調/變形. 有人知道甚麼可能是原因嗎?

我開始預熱樹脂, 在印表機周圍保持22-24 c, 樹脂的井噴(無泡沫), 減慢, 增加曝光和exp, 嘗試空洞或全身(無差別), 厚 也支援(2毫米柱和1毫米提示)印表機處於穩定的位置, 全部平穩.

我認為這可能是機械問題, 或者led有問題, 但它只是猜測.

我理解這是不同的印表機, 但也許有人遇到了類似的問題, 可以幫我解決它.

非常感謝您的幫助.

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Hello

Can this be printed on resin printer? Its a base i created in Tinker CAD and the words are hollowed out into base. It keeps failing when i try to print. You can see a slight impression of the words but its not hollowed through.

你好你好你好

這個能印在樹脂印表機上嗎? 這是我在tinker cad創建的一個基地, 這些詞被空洞. 當我試圖列印時, 它一直失敗. 你可以看到這些單詞的輕微印象, 但它不是空洞的.

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

For those of you who use water washable resin, how do you dispose of the dirty water after washing the print?

I recently got some Polyjuice Water Washable resin from Filaments.ca, and they claim that I can just hit the water with UV to finish curing everything, filter it, then dump the water down the drain, and the solids in the garbage. Is this true for most WW resins?

對於那些使用水洗樹脂的人, 洗完印後怎麼處理臟水?

我最近從纖維那裡得到了一些多汁水洗樹脂. Ca, 他們聲稱我可以用紫外線打水來完成修復一切, 過濾它, 然後把水倒進排水, 然後把固體放在垃圾桶里. 大多數ww樹脂都是這樣嗎?

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Mr Freeze print is done. Did most of his body in translucent resin on my Anycubic Photon S for lighting. Boots also done on my Anycubic Photon and base on my Ender 3. Next step is masking the areas where no paint is going to be applied and prepping my LED’s.

File is from the 3d_model_crowd_funding group on Facebook and Discord.

凍結先生的指紋完成. 他的大部分身體都在半透明樹脂上, 用我的任何立方體光子s用於照明. 靴子也在我的任何立方體光子上完成, 我的ender 3. 下一步是掩飾不塗料的地區, 並準備我的led.

檔案來自facebook上的3 d _ model _ crowing growing group.

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Having some problems with my printer. Most things print fine, but I can't seem to print certain things, like flowers or this tank turret.

The print has thin sheets around it. This is an Anycubic Photon, printing at 15 microns, with the default clear green resin. Photons file was generated in Chitubox.

Does anyone know what causes this?

我的印表機有些問題. 大多數東西列印得很好, 但我似乎無法列印某些東西, 比如花或這個坦克炮塔.

列印周圍有薄的床單. 這是任何立方體光子, 列印15微米, 預設的綠色樹脂. 光子檔案是在chitubox中產生的.

有人知道是甚麼原因嗎?

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

So I’m out of resin. I’ve only used anycubic green( the one that originally came with my machine and a bottle I ordered). I’m looking for something less brittle. I’ve seen some things about mixing resins on here and wondering what you guys would get. I mostly print miniatures. Any help would be great! Thank you!

所以我沒有樹脂了. 我只使用過任何立方體綠色(最初帶著我的機器和我訂購的瓶子). 我在尋找不那麼薄的東西. 我見過一些關於混合樹脂的事情, 想知道你們會得到甚麼. 我主要列印迷你. 任何幫助都會很棒! 謝謝!

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Hello all! I just got my Anycubic Photon printer last night. I'm 100% new to 3D printing (I'm primarily an artist that creates 3d models and illustration but I've always wanted to have my models printed physically.) I have TWO Questions, with images provided.

Firstly, I printed a tiny benchy as a test of the Printer.
The print went well for most of the model but towards the end, Benchy fell off the print bed for some reason. I found it floating in the resin vat.
Could this be due to a leveling issue, or perhaps an exposure duration issue? Or a mix of both? Any advice in identifying the issues when it comes to learning the mysterious process of printing as a newbie to all this?
I believe the settings in the file were as follows

Layer Thickness: 0.05
Exposure time: 10.5
Off Time: 1
Bottom Exposure Time: 80
Bottom Layers: 8

- - - -

Secondly,
I want to print the model I made of one of my characters. He's definitely more complex than a basic Benchy Boat, and I used the provided Slicer software to auto-generate supports. My question for this model would be:
1. Does it need supports added at the tip of the braid and sidebangs? Or will those (ideally) cure to the printer bed and form as it rises?
2. Would the settings shown in the image be adequate exposure and layer thickness time for this type of a model?

Sorry for all the noob questions. But I appreciate any input, as well as any helpful links and resources so I can do some reading on my own as well.
Thank you! :)

大家好! 我昨晚剛拿到了我的任何立方體光子印表機. 我對3 d列印是100 %的新手(我主要是一個製作3 d模型和插圖的藝術家, 但我一直想要把我的模特列印出來.)我有兩個問題, 提供了影象 "我想讓我們知道,

首先, 我列印了一個小小的基準作為印表機的測試.
大多數模型的印刷品都很好, 但最終, 基準因某種原因從印刷床上掉下來. 我發現它漂浮在樹脂增值稅.
這可能是因為一個平穩的問題, 還是曝光時間問題? 還是兩者混合? 當學習作為新手印刷的神秘過程時, 有甚麼建議來識別問題嗎?
我相信檔案中的設定如下

層厚度: 0.05
曝光時間: 10.5
休息時間: 1
底部曝光時間: 80
底層: 8

- - - -

第二,
我想列印我用我的一個角色製作的模型. 他絕對比基本的基準船複雜, 我使用了提供的切片軟體自動生成支援. 我對這個模型的問題是:
1., 它是否需要在braid and sidebang頂端新增支援嗎? 或者那些(理想)會治癒印表機床, 隨著印表機上升時形成?
2. 影象中顯示的設定對於這類模型來說是否足夠曝光和層厚度時間?

抱歉所有的新手問題. 但我感謝任何投入, 以及任何有用的連結和資源, 這樣我也可以自己閱讀.
謝謝! 你知道嗎?

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分

Tested out the Anycubic Eco resin on a sculpt I did for a client and the result turned out better than I expected at 0.05 layer. I used the photon file validator that I saw recently on 3DPrintFarm's YouTube video and I have to say it's a life saver. I've been using Prusa slicer to build my automatic supports, then run it through that software and finally add light supports in chitubox on every island it shows me unsupported. By the end I still get warnings (ranging from 10 to 30 and between 1 to 5 pixels), which I end up not considering.

I definitely want to reduce failed prints and with the eco resin (which is so much better than the elegoo black I was using) plus the combo of Prusa slicer+chitubox+photon file validator (and loads of hours of patience) I feel I'm on the right track.

Good prints everyone!

在我為客戶做的雕塑上測試了生態樹脂, 結果比我預期的要好. 我用了最近在3 dprintfarm的youtube視訊上看到的光子檔案驗證器, 我不得不說它是一個救生者. 我一直在使用prusa slicer來建立我的自動支撐, 然後通過軟體運行, 並最終在chitubox中新增燈光支援. 到最後, 我仍然收到警告(從10到30到5畫素之間), 但最後我沒有考慮.

我絕對想要減少失敗的指紋, 用生態樹脂(比我使用的elegoo black好多)加上prusa slicer+chitubox+photon檔案驗證器(和大量的耐心)我覺得我覺得自己在正確的軌道上 "我想讓我們知道,

大家的好指紋!

· 查看原文 · 為此翻譯評分