Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 3M

Finally watched John Wick 3 yesterday and had to prime the model and cut the video immediately for you. Great movie.
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⏬ ** Printing INFOS ** ⏬
? Modell from: kimcuesta_m (Instagram)
?️ Printer1: # AnycubicI3mega
?️ Printer2: # AnycubicPhoton
? Filament: # Material4Print
? Resin: plantbased Resin (Anycubic)
?️ Slicer: # simplify3d
? Layer: 0.10 - 0.16
? Layer: 0.028 (Resin)
⏱️ Printing-Time: 73,6h + 19,9h
? Model-height: about 34cm (1/6 scale)
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Instagram: www.instagram.com/3dstubeminden

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I was feeling pretty cocky with all the fantastic prints i was getting out of my photon so i decided to reward her with another new FEP.
since wiping out the inside of the machine and changing FEP, my photon (non S) failed within first 3min of 7-8 prints.
I did some googling and upgraded to EPAX firmware from Vini's post that helped several people solve this. but was still happening.
I found that the AC connector to my AC brick felt a little loose so i replaced it and now it won't [beep beep, power cycle, leave plate at bottom] but instead it memory errors M_11820 at 70% into my 6h print.

thoughts ? before my 8A power supply arrives on sunday to replace my 6A ?

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Is it normal that during printing / 0.03mm; 8 seconds / during lifting the working platform, you can hear the sound of the model being torn off the FEP foil??

Is the exposure time too long? Maybe something is wrong with FEP foil? Or is this normal for larger printouts?

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OK question for you experts out there. I have been using my photon for a couple weeks now and have produced some great parts however I came across a problem I had not noticed before. I'm use the Tough Resin from Siraya Tech Blu.

There is a thickness discrepancy. Every part I'm printing has between .2 and .3mm extra thickness. Is this something I can fix within the rip software or do I have to adjust for this in my designs?

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I’ve tried every trick in the book to get consistent prints. Rarely can I get a print to stick to the build platform. My plate is slightly not flat with a high spot in the center. About 0.3mm gap in a ruler from corner to corner. It doesn’t sit flat on my granite surface plate either. I can hear parts sticking for the first 10-20 layers but it eventually peels off. Fuck sandpaper, this thing is getting a real level on the mill. I feel sorry for the customers that don’t have that access that are struggling with this problem.

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so whats the best way to post process a print?

i have done it like that:

- Remove Print from buildplate

- Wash it in a glass with IPA (shake it soft) like 3min
- waiting for IPA to dry
- cure in sun/uv Lamp (does this also work on a cloudy day?)

i havent dont the last step.

any other ideas?
i heard about warm water after IPA Bath?!
or curing in water?

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I LOVE THIS PRINTER!!! Took some time and set it up carefully and so far she hasn't stopped running off prints!!! Cut the layers down to 0.03mm and it loves it. Only had one and a half failures and they were my fault. Really happy I bought it!!!

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Fun little project here, and practical. My buddies wrecker has 30mm lug nuts, and they do not make 30mm spikes. They start at 33mm. So, I made adapters for the spikes. They fit over the lug nut, and the spike fits over the adapter. When you spend the money on nice Alcoa aluminum rims, you don't want ugly lug nuts messing up the look. Made with Siraya Tech Strong and Precise Blu. Created them using Tinkercad.com. If you have not checked out Tinkercad, do yourself a favor and check it out! An awesome resource for creating simple projects.

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Can resin be shaped at all pre or post curing? Have a model i may need to shape a little curve in, only 3mm wide but wondering if itd be best to print in pla on my um2+. Not as great a detail but it will let me heat and shape.

Pic as an example, its the bottom flat pieces i neee to shape to fit the curve, my modelling skills are excellent in tinkercad but given how far ive got it wont let me now curve that piece.

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Hi Everybody! I'm uploading all my process and experience in sanding the base. The first printed pics are with the original anodized aluminum, even after a good leveling and exposure times at the base as 200 secs, thicker supports and raft, and 25 secs per layer, (.03mm) all the prints failed. So I got tired and began to sand it by hand, and in the first printing attempt in one corner of the base one shape of that print finally got well. So, I sanded even more and then two A letters went well but I realized that my sanding technique would never be as flat as a machine would do, so I took it to a bench to get the perfect flatten ( or so). After that, I ran the same file and now still isn't perfect but I managed to print 6 letters well. The resin I'm using is Tiger burgundy and is casteable. The bottle recommends 3.5 secs per layer and I'm using 18 secs, 200 secs at bottom layer, 12 base layers, at .03mm with 40mm/min , and a light off delay of 3 secs per layer. Now I going to decrease this times, because I'm thinking that now that the suction is higher, maybe I will need less exposure times, anyway... this is like the 9th try, and I sanded with a 240 sandpaper very lightly to remark some brushed texture and see if this improves the resin attachment. I have to admit that I was that kind of person who refused sanding the base, but when in all resins like Anycubic green and gray, you succeed and suddenly began to fail doing everything right, you begin to feel uncomfortable about it, so... I gave up and sand the god damn base. I'm going to print now a bigger file, with so much more weight and see how it goes... Wish me luck!

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