Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » UV

The platinum cure silicone mould making quest continues... despite some limited success post-curing test parts in an 80ºC oven, my test with production parts today was unsuccessful resulting in a fair amount of inhibition. Interestingly, the parts that inhibited the silicone most were the ones that had been UV-cured for longer (accidentally left them in the curing chamber for ~3hrs vs. 30 mins for the other parts) - any ideas why that might be? I've acquired some stuff called Kuraray Mowital from our silicone supplier which is a powder resin that you mix with IPA 10:1 and brush/spray onto parts to act as a sealer. From what I've read it's a polyvinyl butyrate resin, does anyone know if Inhibit X from Smooth-On is similar? I'm going to do some tests with it tomorrow, if it's any good I'll let the group know. One more question - does anyone know if Bluecast is any good with platinum cure silicone? Thanks all.

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Just discovered something interesting. As I was printing a funnel I paused and looked at the plate. There was something there but looked odd. Sure enough there was a floater stuck to it so I scrapped it. As I was looking in the vat with a 1000 lumen led dive light I swirled the resin around with the spatula a saw a soft lump that was about 3" x 1". I pulled it out and looked at it. As I hit it with the flashlightt it smoked slightly and stiffened up. The blob was from me passing the ligh back and forth. Led's aren't supposed the give off uv but it seems to work as a curing wand!

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Not sure if it was my years of using super glue or what, lol, but I definitely have adverse effects to UV-resin fumes (I have to assume it's the acrylate), regardless of how bad it smells. Has anyone really tried/had success with any alternative UV resins? I'd gladly take one that would melt my arm off if i touched it, but doesn't give me a small headache, haha.

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I have great news. First of which is Anycubic support contacted me within a few hours of me creating a ticket. That was fantastic. Second the firmware flash they sent me solved the Z-axis movement problem and UV light problem. Fantastic again. I need a bit of help though making sure I understand one step in the process: if there is improvement: please format the the USB and clean up the firmware. Anyone else who has run this process. What do they mean by cleanup the firmware? Am I supposed to flash the machine with the latest firmware now? Am I supposed to in formatting the USB stick again just assume the cleanup is meant to be taking the firmware off the USB stick (which the format will do just by the nature of formatting). I replied to them for clarification but figured I would ask here as well.

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Today is the day! AliExpress has kicked off its anniversary sale. You can get 3L of Anycubic Resin for $128. Any color! That's $42/L or $21/500ml. Great deal and Free Shipping.

US $130.33 30%OFF | 3 Bottles ANYCUBIC New UV Resin 1L Photon 3D SLA Printer 405nm LCD Sensitive Normal Liquid Printing Material drukarka 3d

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I know this is a simple question but I wanted to ask what happens if you don’t cure your prints with UV. The info I’ve found online suggests that they don’t become firm. If that’s the case, I might opt to not to cure them as I want my prints (vascular anatomical models) to be flexible, so that they don’t break easily. Thanks.

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How long should you bathe your print in isopropyl after printing and how long should you cure for under UV Light?

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Help! Photon stopped in the middle of a print and said it was done. Removed the print from the bed and resliced the model. Loaded the USB and now the machine will not do anything. It won't raise or lower, the LCD powers on but no fans, no movement, no starting of a print. Just....dead. Any thoughts on what to try? I powered it off, powered it back on. Did it with the USB stick plugged in and with it out. Rotating the Z-axis manually works so it is not locked. UV test does not work either. Like the machine fried itself except for the display.

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Hi there i recently made this print and got a gap going through the model which I repaired using a syringe with resin and some UV. My question is does anybody have an explanation for why this possibly happened? My best guess would be that I have to recalibrate the Z axis a bit further away..? Thanks!

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Hi all.

Can anyone recommend a clear resin that doesn't yellow under uv light.
I'm using the anycubic clear resin and it's going a straw like colour after a few minutes under the lamp.

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