Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » UV

Glues. Super Glue. UV Torch - Hopefully this post will turn up in future searches. I've had success with regular superglue, but I recently bought this "Bondic" thing from Amazon (I think I got it through Woot, actually). Anyway, it's legit. It works great with the resins.

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I'm considering unplugging the fan behind the vat and cover up the hole. That should be fine, right? The UV LED has a separate fan if I understand correctly.

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Printed with t-shirt ? ?
Hollowed stl
printed with clear resin
not washed with ipa
filling with green nail resin
uv curing for 60 minutes
sprayed resin outside

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Temple of The Unified Build Plates of Photonia.
PSA

The past several weeks, over on the Phrozen groups, a rash of premature LCD failures in the Shuffle machines have been reported.

The LCD failures were Initially downplayed by Phrozen, and some owners, as being due to user failure instead of an inherent design flaw.

Phrozen has finally acknowledged that it is likely a combination of both factors by publishing some tips on how to prevent LCD damage on the Shuffles.

How does this affect the Photon? Both machines share similar designs; a UV light engine through an LCD mask. The main differences being that the Shuffles use a higher wattage UV LED array (Paraled) and unprotected LCD screens versus the Photon with a low wattage single source UV reflector cone and tempered glass protected LCD screens.

In comparison to the Shuffles, the Photons hardly suffer from premature LCD failures. Therefore based on the differences above, one can conclude it is probably due to less heat build up, and less mechanical stress on the Photon LCD screens.

The tips to help prevent LCD damage published by Phrozen can also be applied to help extend the already long lifespans of the Photon LCDs.

They are :

1. Avoid "rapid" curing resin. Abnormally high heat generated by very fast curing resins can cause permanent damage and dead pixels on the LCD.

2. Avoid resins that require very long initial (bottom) layer exposures. Again, high heat exposures will damage the LCD.

3. Keep resin, FEP and build plate clean at all times. Always check if the build plate, resin in vat and FEP film are free from cured resin before printing or leveling. This will help prevent mechanical (pressure) damage to the LCD.

4. Do not clean the FEP film with the vat on the LCD. Pressure from a scraper can cause permanent damage to the LCD. Remove the vat from printer before you clean the FEP film of stuck prints.

Sacrifice moar! Photonia thanks you.

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Good evening friends,

I bought anycubic UV black resin, while running resin test, i received the below result (resin test_50u_b100_2_20.photon). I have choosen the exposure time is 7 sec (in between of 3rd and 4th column). But, while printing Go Nogo gauge, i received +0.1mm in xy and -0.15mm in z directions. Go pin with 0.3 only enters. Help me to find, where i am wrong?

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Hey guys! I'm really happy about this print. It's the biggest one I've done yet and the first time I actually glue some pieces together with a UV torch. It's awsomme my support game is on point nothing is missing and it cleaned up pretty easily. File is from the Skyless Realm Kickstarter.

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I've had a couple of prints fail on me recently with nothing at all on the buildplate or stuck to the FEP, basically no resin curing at all. I ran the UV test after each failed print and no pattern/mask shows. If I switch the printer off and on again each time, so far, the problem has gone away. Has anyone else experienced this intermittent problem and if so is there a fix? Could my screen be on the way out or is this more likely a firmware problem?

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Hello Everyone, I am new to this. I purchased a Photon from amazon and all I'm having with it is problems.

1.) as soon as I took it out of the box, I followed the instructions and did everything as it said. I started printing, but the models were stuck to the film on the resin vat and they were not sticking to the platform. The vat did come with a bunch of scratches, could this be why I'm having problems?

2) i tried printing another model, but this time nothing is printing! The only thing moving is the Z axis. I checked the UV lights before and they were working fine. I see no signs of cured resin.

3) every time I try to level the build plate, it just can't get perfect. It looks like the Z axis assembly is bent but I can't tell.

4) what are your settings for clear resin? I'm going off the spreadsheet online but clearly it's not working. Also, is it ok to add resin while it's printing is paused?? Sometimes I will print big items and it will start running low.

Thanks!!

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I finally finished putting the enclosure together. The UV lights and the aluminum hose were the only things I purchased, everything else was laying around the house. There's a hook to keep the lid open, lights if needed (which can be switched on/off when needed) a little shelf for supplies and an area under the shelf for a filter if needed. I also have another fan that has lights like the one shown, not that it matters.

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I received a replacement printer from Amazon (first one had a lot of problems with biggest being the LCD cable needed to be reseated regularly and would go on the fritz mid print). I got a much better test print off the new printer. The z-axis sounds "crunchy" and I do see some repeating layer lines on the z (can't get a good photo of them). After reading here, I'll try doing the z-axis adjustment per the Anycubic video. But overall, this is much better. One quick IPA rinse, then blown off with compressed air and 15 minutes in UV.

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