So total noob here, I printed the test cube in Anycubic clear. Then I put in my ultrasonic cleaner for about 4 mins, in Mr. Clean, then I washed it in warm water for a couple mins. Then I put it in my UV nail dryer (it’s 405nm and it can also do 365nm) for about 4 mins (mine only has a 60s button so I had to keep pressing it) and now the print looks sunburned? What did I do wrong?
翻譯年糕
Simon Wilson
2020-03-16 13:02:42
Sadly you did nothing wrong, this is what it always does when exposed to UV, ironically. Apparently you can get UV-blocking primer or lacquer coating which will prevent it but not found any yet.
Riika Magnus
2020-03-16 13:04:29
Simon Wilson
huh. So why do they make clear if it doesn’t stay clear (since I’m assuming leaving it in the sun would do the same thing?)
Stefan Giudici
2020-03-16 13:10:21
Nothing, it's just cheap resin, cheap clears and whites will yellow
Riika Magnus
2020-03-16 13:11:22
Do you have a suggestion for a clear that wont yellow, by any chance?
Stefan Giudici
2020-03-16 13:13:18
John Chrapkowski
2020-03-16 13:13:55
Simon Wilson
2020-03-16 13:14:07
Good question! I tested my prints by putting them on the window sill and they gradually yellow over the course of a few days, not really used it since as I needed it to be crystal clear like when it's just freshly printed! Maybe there's a better one out there that probably costs more?
John Chrapkowski
2020-03-16 13:14:18
It will lighten back up likeiy
Kyle McPherson
2020-03-16 13:15:28
I have heard (from somewhere) that if you immerse it in water while curing, that it will prevent the print from yellowing.
?♂️
worth a try maybe
Riika Magnus
2020-03-16 13:16:10
Riika Magnus
2020-03-16 13:16:28
Riika Magnus
2020-03-16 13:17:59
Kyle McPherson
Interesting!! Maybe the water refracts the UV rays so they aren't so harsh?
Kyle McPherson
2020-03-16 13:18:41
Riika Magnus
from what I remember the yellowing is due to air exposure.
Miles Redman
2020-03-16 13:19:04
So there is a technical reason why finding clear polymers that don’t yellow with UV exposure is really difficult, from my meetings with epoxy resin manufactures, the polymer in question needs to be completely stable and non-volatile, which is incredibl
y expensive to manufacture. It is theoretically possible to create a clear photocurative resin for 3d printing with the same principle but you would be paying $$$ per liter
罗西晟
2020-03-16 13:20:53
Riika Magnus
You need to estimate how much "resin needs to be cured"
The "wireframe" is very thin so does not need a lot of extra time curing.
If you'd print a solid block of that size, you might need more than 30 seconds....
Riika Magnus
2020-03-16 13:22:37
Riika Magnus
2020-03-16 13:23:31
Luke Mason
2020-03-16 13:33:41
Riika did nothing wrong people! Nothing wrong! It’s not her fault the resin producing cabal LIES!
Adam Shane
2020-03-16 13:42:00
I’ve heard heating it significantly will remove some yellowing, but haven’t tested myself yet.
Franyely Montiel
2020-03-16 13:43:09
You did nothing wrong, sadly that's what happens when you cure your "clear resin" prints
Riika Magnus
2020-03-16 13:51:39
Humm... Like, say, with a heat gun?
George Johnson
2020-03-16 13:51:45
Just a little cross-linking of the resin.
Patrick Beals
2020-03-16 14:03:10
All clears will yellow under UV, some more than others- but I’d say that it’s overcured. Thin parts need much less time. 60 sec might even be too long.
I’ve had pretty good luck so far with the Clear Blu from Siraya Tech.
Adam Shane
2020-03-16 14:23:17
Riika Magnus
, something like that. Once again, this is only what I’ve seen in other groups. Might want to look into it a bit more before attempting.
Ivan Del Bene
2020-03-16 16:33:25
Nice..
?
?
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Mr cleaning is based on? Better ore equal to ipa? Thanks
?
Riika Magnus
2020-03-16 17:19:21
Ivan Del Bene
I’ve never used IPA, I just watched a video from Uncle Jesse comparing Simple Green, Mr. Clean, Mean Green and IPA. He liked Mean Green the best but I wasn’t able to get any so I went with Mr. Clean.
Tom Sargison
2020-03-16 17:33:19
Riika Magnus
2020-03-16 17:33:49
Ivan Del Bene
2020-03-16 18:36:33
Riika Magnus
wich is the main ingredient of it? Ammoniac or alchol based?
?
Chris Armstrong
2020-03-17 01:39:38
Chris Armstrong
2020-03-17 01:40:44
Ivan Del Bene
Mr. Clean is ammoniac based. Are you posing that question because ammoniac should be avoided?
Ivan Del Bene
2020-03-17 02:01:24
Chris Armstrong
nono I was thinking about it because I replace tamya solvent for my airbrush with a glass ammoniac product.. And worth it
?
?
Corey Ardwin
2020-03-17 05:54:49
Riika Magnus
in conjunction to what he said about the resin cure time, if it sits stationary in the uv light, you’ll have those spots that are more heavily exposed. It’s good to rotate the print in the light, or have total exposure from all sides to evenly cure.
Riika Magnus
2020-03-17 06:01:30
Corey Ardwin
That I do know. I am just temporary using my UV nail dryer (I actually do use that for my nails, LOL) until I build a curing box (it will have reflective sides, UV strip lights and a solar turner). In this scenario I cured for 60s, then rotated the object, and did that three more times as I was unaware that 60s probably would have been sufficient, LOL.
