Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » UV

Posted about this before--back with some results. Soft details--can't get a crisp print.

Using AnyCubic Grey Resin 450nm

Normal Exposure--I've tried less than 7 seconds (I get failed prints)---and tried 8 seconds--up to 11 seconds. I can't tell a difference

I've tried .02mm up to .05mm--can't tell a difference

After the print, I wash with 99% alcohol then let dry--then UV cure. Even before I cure, I can see how soft the details are.

At my wits end here, any suggestions?

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Anyone wanna share their DIY curing chamber? I've purchased a UV led strip and a rotating disk thing as well as a carboard box, but I'm wondering how many of the led strips do we need to line the box with.

I do know that we are supposed to line the inside with tin foil or something reflective also... The uv strip is long enough to wrap the inside a couple time but it would have to spiral at an angle otherwise i'd need to run them in parallel or get a tube container instead. Advice is much appreciated.

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So Monoprice Rapid UV 3D Printer Resin is a 'yes'... going two for two...Ultrasonic cleaners...gimmick or way to go ?...recommended models in the UK.. ?

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Anyone used this ? Monoprice Rapid UV 3D Printer Resin ...? cheapest available on Amazon UK at the moment...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/…/B07H46XVQK/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_7…

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So absolutely in love with this machine, actually like a brand new hobby. So I notice all resins act differently.

So the grey anycubic resin seems an easier shade to spot errors but the translucent green seems crisper. Although hard to spot imperfections.

What are your thoughts guys/girls on what you find to be crisper details. Or your favourite. Has anyone tried to mix resins?

The reason I ask I was casting metal miniatures today and well different metals act very differently. I'm trying to aim for sharp details as in finding some details soft. I've done the adjustment and getting good quality as is but I'm curious can the miniatures in UV resin cast even better.

Mini below is of artisan guild mini and the cubic does good bulky details but smaller than that it wavers.

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Finally a near perfect print, 1 small crack formed and a perfect extra drain hole lol.
Luckily fixed with a drop of resin and UV torch.

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I was having frame shearing problems and when I updated the firmware my Photon’s screen started acting funny and not producing the rectangle when doing the UV detection. I opened a ticket with Anycubic and they sent me a new motherboard. I just installed the new motherboard and the lcd screen problem is still happening. Any ideas appreciated, thank you!

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Today I have noticed a very curious thing, I have a system of improvised curing of uv led strips, in it there are two types of figures that are inside the painted circle have a very bright fluorescence while the others have nothing. I have used the same white eleggo resin the only difference is that the most fluorescent ones have 8 seconds of normal exposure and the other 14.

Does anyone know what it's all about?

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I know it's really really really hard to tell from photos, but I'm guessing I'm not supposed to be seeing the UV backlight at all though the masked off parts? I know light bleed is common in TVs and these phone screens they use aren't designed to be blasted with 25w UV lamps. Is this normal on the photon? I keep getting a bunch of resin stuck to FEP. Not in places where anything is supposed to print. It isn't a giant sheet across the whole FEP, it's pieces here and there. And it's after every print. Sometimes the print itself is fine, many times there are extra pieces hanging off the print, sometimes it fails in weird places. I'm charging up my other phone so I can record the whole print and see if I have glitches in the middle of a print.

You can see in the pics with paper over the screen that there is a faint glow in the masked parts.

Can I solve this? Yes I have checked the cable is seated. The fans are all working. This has been happening on all different firmwares, official ones, Epax 4.2.18, even phontonsters GUI mod. My motherboard failed and was replaced as well, happened on the old Mobo and the new one.

For those curious this is Bluecast x10, sanded buildplate with bluecast primer cat adhesive, all settings they suggest. (0.05 layer, 9 seconds, 60s bottom layer, 40mm/hr lift speed). Room is at 21°c-25°c. Resin is warmed initially to around 30°c. I get the same kinds of results on all resins.

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Resin curing question. Larger prints that I hollow out to save on resin, obviously I have holes in so there isn't trapped liquid inside. But lets say I have the walls set for 2mm thick. When the print is done, and cleaned off, and I go and put it out in the sun, I'm thinking the light does not really penetrate the surface much at all. Unless I'm using a semi-transparent resin like the green stuff it came with. So really, from what I am thinking, only so much of the surface is actually getting UV light so I'm guessing that, maybe most, of the 2mm thick walls really isn't curing at all. I mean it is as hardened as the printer itself made the walls, but it didn't finish curing like the outer most parts of the print.

My question is, what is too thin to have any durability, but what is too thick to actually make any strength difference without wasting too much resin? I'm kinda guessing 2mm. 1mm seems to be kind of thin and easily breakable, and 3mm seems to use a lot of resin. Just kinda looking for that happy medium of durable but not wasteful of material.

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