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This is my first time to print a pedestal for my bust and this is what happen. Wall thickness when hallowed at 8mm. Bottom exposure time at 90. Does this really need a raft at the bottom? PLEASE HELP

這是我第一次為我的胸部列印底座, 這就是這樣. 在8毫米的時候, 牆厚度. 底部曝光時間90. 點, 這真的需要一個木筏在底部嗎? 請幫幫我

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Just printed my test cube not sure why some of the middle didn’t print correctly. I did clean my Vat out and didn’t have any cured bits left in the resin. Using anycubic grey. The stock times for the cube. Any thoughts?

剛剛列印了我的測試立方體, 不知道為什麼中間部分沒有正確列印. 我確實清理了我的增值稅, 樹脂中沒有任何傷口. 使用任何立方體灰色. 立方體的存貨時間. 有甚麼想法嗎?

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These prints from my new Sonic Mini took much less time than my Photons.. and detail is awesome... loving this machine... Logan took 4:30 hrs on mini and more than 7:30 on photon. The Geko took 43 min on mini and 2:39 hrs on Photon...
.04 layer, 2 sec layers. Polyjuice water washable resin. You can even see his shoelaces ffs.... wow! Added pic of crypto key made on photon half the height of logan took 7:30 hrs... 3 hrs more and half as high... wow! Love it more and more...

這些來自我的新sonic mini的印花的時間比我的光子少很多.. 細節真棒... 愛這台機器... logan花了4:30小時的迷你, 光子上花了7:30多. "如果你知道, 你知道, 你知道你會是甚麼...
. 04層, 2秒. 多汁水可洗樹脂. 你甚至可以看到他的鞋帶.... 哇! 新增了在光子上製作的加密金鑰照片, 洛根的高度花了7:30小時... 3小時多半小時... 哇! 越來越喜歡它...

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Update: it is working again after leaving it unplugged over night. What I think happened was after aborting my last print I pulled the USB before it was done the full abort cycle so the file was stuck in whatever cache is in the printer. I did unplug the machine before but must not have left it unplugged long enough.
Need some help. I unplugged my USB from my printer and the screen showed some error about the USB being removed (I like an idiot did not take a picture of what it said). But as I had just removed it I just closed it and moved on. Now my printer will not read the files on my USB. It detects them but when I click print it says failed to open file. I have tried 2 USB stick that were both working using files that worked before, I am running 5.0.2 firmware version. Time for a service ticket or has anyone seen this before and knows how to fix i?

更新: 它在晚上拔掉插頭後, 它再次起作用. 我想發生的事情是在取消我的最後一張列印後, 我在完成整個墮胎週期之前就拔了usb, 所以檔案卡在印表機里的任何快取中. 我之前確實拔掉了機器, 但肯定沒有把它拔掉足夠長的時間.
需要一些幫助. 我從印表機拔出了我的usb, 螢幕顯示了一些關於usb被移除的錯誤(我喜歡一個白癡沒有照). 但是, 我剛剛刪除了它, 我剛剛關閉它並繼續前進. 現在我的印表機不會讀到我的usb上的檔案. 它檢測到它們, 但當我點選列印時, 它說無法開啟檔案. 我試過2個usb棒, 這兩個都在使用之前工作的檔案, 我運行5.0.2個固件版本. 該買張服務票了, 或者有人看過這個, 知道如何修復我嗎?

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Help! Everything is fine but last few times I print this, this has happened. Or i get flat spots (not this print)

Layer height. 05
Bottom layer count 8
Exposure time 8s
Bottom exposure time 60s
Anycubic grey

救命! 一切都好, 但最後幾次我列印這個, 這已經發生了. 或者我得到平坦的斑點(不是這個列印)

層次高度. 05年
底層數8
曝光時間8秒
底部曝光時間60秒
任何立方體灰色

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Hi Guys, this is going to be interesting.

So as you know I design a lot of scale parts for my RC helis - this means parts are exposed to vibration, elements, wind - the works.
So far for the small scale fittings I was doing prints on Anycubic Photon (Ameralabs and Siraya resins) and if something had more curviture or was bigger - Peopoly Moai.
FDM was used only for big parts. Now after finishing building my e3d tool changer I decided to optimized my Prusa MK3S for fine detail printing
- prints with ASA
- layer height of 0.05mm (most of my photon prints i do at 0.04 or 0.05)
- 0.15mm nozzle (so twice the diameter of Peopoly Moai laser, photon res is 0.047 by 0.047 but obviously this means aliasing)

I wanted to see how much detail I can get
And I do have to say - to a naked eye there is no loss of fidelity, even under a microscope the difference in detail is managable.

Prints have to be done with ABS or ASA (petg or pla may clog)
Benefits
- parts are lighter, the wire cutter on fdm was 3g vs 8g resin (ASA density is 1.09g/cm3 vs resin that is on 1.35,also can do very thing permiters i.e 0.45mm)
- parts are stronger

Drawback
- marginal loss of fidelity
- print times on average 3x of how long it would tool on photon with 12s exposure.

Oh, acetone smoothing on more organic parts - wow!
-

嗨, 夥計們, 這會很有趣.

所以正如你知道, 我為我的rc hellis設計了很多比例的部件-這意味著部分會暴露於振動, 元素, 風工作.
到目前為止, 對於小型配件, 我正在任何立方體光子(ameralabs和siraya樹脂)上做列印, 如果有更多的曲線或更大的- peopoly moai.
Fdm只用於大部分. 現在完成了我的e3d工具更換器後, 我決定優化我的prusa mk3s, 以獲取細節列印
-與asa列印
-層高度0.05 mm (我的大部分光子印在0.04或0.05)
- 0.15 mm噴嘴(所以是人氣鐳射的兩倍, 光子res是0.047 by 0.047, 但這顯然意味著異化)

我想看看我能得到多少細節
我不得不說對赤裸的眼睛來說, 沒有失去忠誠, 即使在顯微鏡下, 細節上的差異是可以解決的.

指紋必須用abs或asa完成(petg或pla may clog)
年, %
-零件更輕盈, fdm上的電線切割機為3克樹脂(asa密度為1.09克/ cm3與1.35, 也可以做非常適合permiters i). E 0.45 mm
-部分更強

倒退
-一點點失去忠誠
-平均列印時間為3倍, 在光子上使用12 s曝光工具的時間.

哦, 丙酮在更多有機部件上滑-哇!
-

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A big ‘thank you’ to this group!
I’m fairly new to 3D printing, bought my Photon S last November and I’m having fun printing 40k minis. Been learning through lots of trial and error. Went thru a 1Lt. bottle of AnyCubic Macaroon Blue ECO resin. Unfortunately, my models have all suffered from over exposure because I read some bad information regarding the ECO resin and settings. I was lead to believe that I should be using 12sec exposure times at 0.02mm layers. My mini models were losing details like crazy and I was getting frustrated because I knew it could be better.

This group is helping my understand this machine better and I greatly appreciate the collective knowledge that everyone is willing to share.

I’ve been experimenting more lately with the AmeraLabs SLA tests. I think I’m getting closer to a good balance with the details.

Number one lesson y’all taught me so far:
“The print exposure is too damn high.” Lol
So I made a meme for it lol

給這個社團的"謝謝"!
我相當新到3 d列印, 去年十一月買了我的光子s, 我很開心印刷40 k minis. 經歷了很多考驗和錯誤. 穿過1 lt. 一瓶任何cubic macaroon blue eco樹脂. 遺憾的是, 我的模特都因為我閱讀了一些關於生態樹脂和設定的壞資訊而遭受了影響. 我相信我應該在0.02 mm層使用12秒曝光時間. 我的迷你模特像瘋了一樣失去了細節, 我感到沮喪, 因為我知道它會更好.

這個小組幫助我更好地理解這台機器, 我非常感謝大家願意分享的集體知識.

最近我一直在嘗試ameralabs sla測試. 我想我越來越接近與細節的平衡.

到目前為止, 你們都教我的第一課:
"列印曝光太高了." lol
所以我為此做了一個meme lol

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Requesting some input!
The problem:
Anycubic Skin refuses to adhere to the buildplate.
It just gets cured to the bottom of the vat on the FEP.
Dragon Resin Grey is adhering and printing successfully without issue. Anycubic Skin will not, regardless of exposure settings.

Troubleshooting:
- FEP was replaced several prints ago - prints remained successful afterwards when printing in Grey resin.
- I have tried several different exposure settings and 2 different objects. Skin Always fails.
- I have re-leveled the build plate.
- Printed the same test objects, using my Dragon Resin (Grey), with success The Grey adheres to the print bed without issue. The Anycubic Skin does not.
-Temperature of the room is maintained using a space heater between 60-75 degrees
- Resin is stored in a comfortable indoor temperature (72 degrees)
- Resin is always shaken before pouring

Test Object:
- Test object is a flat disk-like pendant that is printed flat against the build plate. this test object has printed successfully numerous times in two other types of resin.
- I have also printed other objects with success in grey, that skin fails. I have yet to have a single successful print in Skin.
My thoughts:
> I do not think this is a leveling issue.
> My only conclusion is, do I have a bad bottle of resin?
> Anycubic Skin was purchased via Amazon
> Anycubic Skin has a lot of bubbles after shaking, but it's less viscous than Dragon Resin so it may not indicate any problem but I'll mention it anyways.
Successful Grey print settings (A little overexposed but at least it adhered)but Trying the same in Skin yielded no success.
Normal Exposure: 15sec
Offtime: 7 sec
Base Exposure: 70sec
Base Layers: 8

Failed Skin settings:
Normal Exposure: 5sec
Offtime: 2sec
Base Exposure: 50sec
Base Layers: 8sec

請求一些意見!
問題:
Anycubic面板拒絕遵守建築板.
它剛剛被治癒到fep上的增值稅底部.
龍樹脂灰色成功地堅持和列印, 沒有問題. 任何cubic面板不會, 不管曝光設定.

煩惱:
- fep在幾張列印之前被更換-之後印刷灰色樹脂時, 列印仍然很成功.
-我嘗試了幾個不同的曝光設定和2個不同的物體. 面板總是失敗.
-我重新調整了建造盤子.
-用我的龍樹脂(灰色)列印同樣的測試物件, 成功, 灰色堅持在列印床上. Anycubic面板沒有.
-房間的溫度是使用60-75度之間的空間加熱器保持.
-樹脂儲存在舒適的室內溫度(72度)
-樹脂在傾盆前總是動搖

測試物件:
-測試物件是一個平盤一樣的吊墜, 列印平板. 這個測試物件已經成功地印刷了另外兩種樹脂.
-我也印刷了其他在灰色中成功的物體, 面板失敗了. 我還沒有一個成功的面板列印.

我的想法:
>我不認為這是一個平凡的問題.
>我唯一的結論是, 我有一瓶樹脂嗎?
> anycubic面板是通過亞馬遜購買的
> anycubic面板在搖晃後有很多泡泡, 但它比龍樹脂少, 所以它可能不會顯示任何問題, 但無論如何我會提到它.

成功的灰色列印設定(有點過量, 但至少它堅持), 但在面板嘗試同樣的嘗試沒有成功.
正常曝光: 15秒
時間: 7秒
基底曝光: 70秒
底層: 8

面板設定失敗:
正常曝光: 5秒
時間: 2秒
基底曝光: 50秒
底層: 8秒

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Spend ages working on supports on my first big print. Most of the volume will be used. But man. Slicing sucks. Take model in prusa slicer. Auto support. Takes good 6 minutes. Export for chitu. Chitu takes 10 minutes to slice add another good 10 minutes to write the file. 7 minutes for the validator. Rinse and repeat as I work out islands. Good solid 3 hours of on and off mostly spend waiting for slicing.

29 hour print has started. Please pray for me.

花了很多時間在支援我的第一個大列印. 大部分音量將被使用. 但是男人. 切片糟透了. 在普魯薩切片里取模特. 自動支援. 需要6分鐘. 匯出給chitu. Chitu需要10分鐘來切片, 再新增10分鐘來寫檔案. 7分鐘, 驗證器. 當我在島嶼上鍛鍊時, 洗並重復. 良好的3小時開關, 大部分時間等待切片.

29小時列印已經開始. 請為我祈禱.

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https://prototypebay.com/album/hu3Cb142Ak
Link to the free STLs is in the description.
I've made this model 2 years ago in a 5 hours modeling competition. Recorded a timelapse (links also in the desc.) if someone is interested.

https://prototypebay.com/album/hu3Cb142Ak
免費stls的連結在描述中.
我2年前在5小時的造型比賽中做了這個模特. 如果有人感興趣, 錄制了一個時間表(也在desc.).

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