Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » Volt

Hey! I see this come up a bunch here and I wanted to share my experience.

I spent several years developing LED strip lighting products.

Standard white LEDs use 480nm Blue Diodes and Phosphors, which take blue light and convert it to yellow and green to make White light.

480mm is the standard blue diode, royal blue/deep blue leds are available but their output is much dimmer so they are not used to make white LEDs (less efficient) or RGB LEDs (difficult to match diode brightness).

All diodes are slightly different, in terms of wavelength, output, temperature, voltage, etc.

Despite what the Google Images searches will show, 480nm LEDs DO have output all the way down to UV (although not much). The curve is more like an asymptote.

You don't need a Spectral Irradiance Meter to test this just turn on any RGB strip to blue and you will see fluorescence.

Do your White Task/Desk/Work LEDs have enough UV to cure resin? IMO, maybe, depends on the resin sensitivity at higher wavelengths and the intensity of the lights.

Is it better than fluorescent or sunlight? Absolutely.
Just something to keep in mind.

(Edit for clarity maybe)

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Does anyone know if Siraya bluetech is heat resistant since I already have it? I am looking for a resin that can handle high heat. About to print a flashlight that's going to house a CREE xml2 high power led on a 16mm heatsink with a forward voltage of 3.0 550mA. It gets pretty hot, like over 100C perhaps.

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Salve, è la prima volta che scrivo sul gruppo, ho comprato una photon s il black Friday e questa è la mia prima stampa, credo sia perfetta e devo ringraziare anche voi, perché parecchie informazioni le ho apprese nei vostri post, perciò grazie a tutti... ?
Hi, this is the first time I write about the group, I bought a photon s black Friday and this is my first print, I think it's perfect and I have to thank you too, because I learned a lot of information in your posts, so thanks to everyone ... ?

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Alright guys, I need electrical help. Mechanically I can do about anything but I'm so lost when it comes to electronics. I want to make a cure box that has the UV LEDS, a 40mm fan and motor for the turntable. I've found everything at 5 volts. What is the best way to connect everything? I was thinking of using a 5 volt wall adapter but what amperage? Any suggestions would help!

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Bom dia amigos.

Tenho uma Photon S e minha dúvida é:

Fiz o nivelamento da mesa usando a folha de papel e está tudo ok! Porém, gostaria de voltar na posição onde zerei o Z e subir um pouco (0.1mm) para realizar um teste.
É possível através de alguma opção no menu?

Obrigado

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Conversation with Anycubic basically

Me I am looking to check on replacement fan for my anycubic, I am looking to buy replacement part,

AnyCubic asks for Serial number which I give them and they can confirm that its legit serial number and then they ask for order number which I also give them..

I also say I bought the printer through Lazada...

Anycubic then sent me a short message back that Lazada is not one of their suppliers and I will need to contact my supplier for replacement for my printer fan.

I respond back to them they did not even answer my basic question what fan specs that I would need to get from another source if one could not be ordered and paid for through them..

after several days I got short response back that I would need to get a 60 X 60 fan 12 volt...

but really they had a lot of stuff on their website how they were improving customer care and making it easier to deal with them...

but if you treat your customer that says they are even willing to pay to have a replacement part shipped to them not even asking for free replacement part in this manner its not showing you care for your users who use your product even if they did not buy from your online store or sanctioned sellers..

Oh and my anycubic came with one of the official after sales service plastic cards that was supposed to entitle me to service from Anycubic if I presented the card...

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so my printer has consistently failed lately by either rebooting mid-print (usually in first 2 or so layers), giving M_11820 error, or zaxis failing to move after initiating print and printing all layers without moving.

i replaced the power supply with a new 12v 8A brick and verified polarity and voltage before trying it out - same issue as before - not fixed

i updated firmware - not fixed

i reset eeprom with default code - not fixed and now zaxis will not move at all no matter what.

i tested mainboard reference voltage and it showed 5.89v


so i've had a printer that failed about 14 of the last 15 prints but now i have a printer that will not move the zaxis motor with any of the ui commands or prints.


is any firmware gcode space-magic going to solve my problem or am i waiting to go through the troubleshooting process with anycubic and headed for a new mainboard or z motor ?



please help. - also i'm currently on 4.2.18 firmware on a standard model photon 翻譯年糕

Hi Folks. Very happy with the result here. Background..

I am looking at ways to create a mask that can pickup the wearer's facial movement.. And these can be replayed on to a animatronic mask. For example - someone wearing werewolf mask can snarl, raise eyebrows, frown - and this is picked up and replayed via servo's, in real time, to the animatronic head.

EMG will not work - Sweat will invalidate the consistent readings due to conductivity.

This is my final design.. a small light weight linear sensor that will not react to sweat or moisture. The output is a simple analogue signal. Also most importantly - it needs to operate on the power of an eyebrow movement or other facial muscle twitch.

Now I have a resin printer I can print the parts an know they will be glass like smooth to stop friction.
What you see here are 3 x 3D printed shells. The graph paper is 1cm x 1cm for scale.
The PCB contains a QRE1113 sensor that has an IR light source and a Photo transistor. This board fits beneath the shell with the sensor showing through the hole.
The graduated laminated paper with the armature wire fits.. face down.. in to the shell channel.
A soft pad to hold it against the sensor yet still enable it to move freely will be applied on top.

The shell is fixed to a fixed spot above the eyebrow. The armature is glued to the eyebrow using an safe actors glue.
As the eyebrow moved up and down it will push the laminated paper over the QRE1113. The changes in reflectivity will cause the output voltage to changed and read by an Arduino or other. The accuracy is very good.

Enjoy

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Ciao a tutti. Forse oggi riesco a fare il mio primo test. Vorrei provare a stampare il file che c'è nella chiavetta. La resina che utilizzerò è quella in dotazione verde. Essendo la prima volta che mi avvicino alla stampa in resina, potreste assistermi nelle impostazioni? cosa devo mettere in queste schermate? Come faccio a sapere dove vanno messi i supporti. Se metto i supporti in automatico, li crea anche dentro e penso si possa stampare anche senza metterli dentro. Help grazie a tutti

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Long story short, I got a GREAT deal and just became an unexpected owner of a Photon, but I didn't get the tool bag or power supply. Could I please bother someone to look at the supply and let me know what the output voltage and amp rating might be? I tried Google, but came up empty handed. Can't wait to see what this baby can do!

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