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Could I get help interpreting this test?

It was Elegoo Rapid Grey at 20 microns. My existing settings were at 7 seconds, but that was apparently too long

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Yrel from World of Warcraft. Custom sculpt done by Nickey Dimchev for me. Printed at 0.05mm with Monocure Rapid grey.

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Welp. Let my example be warning to others. I just printed quite a big part of my model three times and by my own stupidity ruined the first two. First I was curious how’s the print doing and paused the print. But the pause button didn’t seem to react so I pressed it, like the idiot I am, several times. It did stop the print. But also confused the printer, so after I resumed the print, it started “printing” in the air, hanging several centimetres above the vat. Oh well. I removed the 2/3 finished print, found few supports that were too close to the object and fused with it. Oh well, at least I could fix that. I moved supports, sliced in ChituBox, checked layers, exported and let print overnight. In the morning I found the “finished” print, missing almost exactly the same bit like the one I interrupted. I found out that if you export sliced object from ChituBox while checking your layers, the print stops at the layer you were checking! Oh well, resliced, reexported and third time was the charm.
So in conclusion, don’t press the pause button ten times in a row and always finish the layer check.

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I feel kind of stupid but: Dental resin... is it used for casting of teeth.. or for printing tooths? Like it is a really durable resin?

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Finished painting the Duncan Louca's plague demons. Monocure rapid clear and citadel paints.

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Hey folks

I’m having troubles with monocure 3D rapid grey

Can anyone share me the settings they use with the anycubic photon print app?

I’m mostly having issues with the supports in some places (rarely the same spot) where the resin seems to be sticking to the fep more than the bed. Also the details just aren’t very fine compared to the anycubic green I was previously using

I based my settings on those I found on a shared database document I found online for anycubic photon printing

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All I can say is "green anycubic resin go eff yourself!" I have been having issues for weeks trying to get the stupid form to stick to the plate. I finally ran out of the green that came with it and started using the clear. It worked the very first time. Never again green resin, never again.

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Hi, I love my printer, even though I have had it a month or so I have not been able to spend too much time with it, but I quickly became aware that I needed a resin that was a bit more forgiving in the brittleness area so that I could print more practical things rather than miniatures etc (I do print those too).
After reading up on different resins I decided to get some MonoCure 3D Rapid FLEX100.

For those in Europe there is a discount in September at FEPshop.com , I got 1l for about €83 including UPS express shipping.
I tried a couple of test prints using one of Monocure's calibration models with some interesting results, the clear is 100% Rapid Flex100 and the grey is a 50/50 mix by volume of the Rapid Flex100 and Anycubic Grey.
I used the same printing times for both of them, 60s for the base layers and 20s for the rest or them.
The Rapid Flex100 initially curled up into a ball when I removed it from the platform but was OK after I washed it in IPA, many or the small details broke away (I was expecting this), it has no strength and quite floppy, also the print was oversize.
The 50/50 mix was a lot better for retaining the small details and the correct overall dimensions (50 x 30 mm), I could bent it and it would return to original shape, though it is quite stiff now that it's cured, the print times were not sufficient I had a lot of post curing to do to stop it from being tacky, I guess that's from under exposure during printing, I need more experience using the printer, but my next try will be to increase the layer exposure to about 25s.

I welcome your comments and suggestions

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Getting this issue with a brand new printer from the very first print, bed is levelled correctly, exposure settings in pic ( i use these setting on 3 other photons with no issue), and resin is monocure rapid grey. The installed firmware is 4.2.17.

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I was having Z Wobble issues with my printer and took it apart using the Anycubic youtube video. I fixed the Z wobble but now I can't seem to get prints to not stick to FEP.

I've done a bunch of prints before and never had any issues that releveling the bed didn't fix but for whatever reason now it's not working. I've also tried re-slicing and move things around on the plate but no better results.

This was the best print I was able to do out of maybe 5 tries. The shoes at the bottom were attached to the FEP but the sword almost printed fine except it looked like the far-right support was stuck on the FEP till the end of the print.

Using 75% Monocure rapid grey 25% Flex 100

Any ideas?

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