Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » Epoxy

Terrible Z-wobble which I couldn't remove due to stripped Allen key heads on eccentric nut...

Linear rail upgrade done using FDM printed bracket.

Due to some horrendous marking out on my part I totally borked fixing the linear rail in place with screws.

Not to beaten at the first hurdle I just glued them on the Z column. Took great care in masking the rails and fixing them flush with the column front face. Fixed with Araldite Steel and they worked perfectly!

Take away from this, if you can cut a rail to length, then you can upgrade without milling, drilling and tapping!

**UPDATE**

Should mention I keyed the rail and column with 80 grit to ensure the epoxy had something to grip as they need to be clamped tight.

I used Araldite Metal because I had it in my glue "box" but any two part epoxy will do the job.

You will need eight M3x8mm cap head bolts for attaching the bracket to the rail carriages.

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I’m mildly allergic to epoxy, and my Photon arrives tomorrow. Has anyone had allergic reactions to resin the same as epoxy?

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Ok, so I just submitted a warranty claim to Anycubic. Figured I'd post it here too in case someone has any advice, and just in case one of their reps sees it here and can expedite things:

Summary: Several of the holes drilled into the build plate joint are too large.

When I first received my printer, I noticed that the build plate could "wiggle" horizontally even after tightening it (see the video I uploaded here: https://youtu.be/e5no6izFGps ). It would stay level, but I could rotate it slightly horizontally. It didn't seem to affect the leveling (at first), so I assumed it was normal.

I was experiencing a lot of failed prints, and determined that leveling might be an issue. I followed the steps provided by Anycubic to level the plate, and also followed the advice found on the Photonsters facebook group. I learned from that group that the horizontal "wiggle" was not normal, and I probably had a problem with the joint.

I took the joint apart and cleaned it, and realized that several of the screws were loose. I was able to tighten a couple of them, but at least three proved impossible to tighten. They simply spin in the holes. I tried multiple screws in these holes to make sure it wasn't a problem with the screw, but the result was the same.

Two of the holes on the ball joint itself, and one of the holes around the opening where the ball joint sits, are too large. See the uploaded picture - the bad holes are circled in red. The screws do not fasten, they simply spin.

I tried replacing the screws with ones purchased locally, but that didn't make a difference.

I tried using an epoxy to fix the screws in place, but that didn't make a difference.

The build plate is "wiggling" because there is only one tight screw on the ball joint. The plate also quickly becomes unleveled after printing because of the loose screws.

I'd like the build platform mount and joint replaced, or at least those two parts (circled in blue in the uploaded picture) replaced. Please let me know what it is needed to make that happen.

Thank you.

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I've bought couple of https://www.smooth-on.com/products/so-strong/ long time ago and i couldn't even use the %5 of them because it takes only 1 to 3 drops for a liter of epoxy.
So i've been thinking adding them into resin for printing.
Anyone tried these or something similar to this kind of products ? I've been adding food colors and they work fine but this one is more gooey when compared.

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I have this prototype of a mechanism that is driven by water under (residential) pressure, like a sprinkler. It has several chambers, so I print it in layers and glue the layers together such that the housing traps the axles that the gears rotate on and hold the other elements of the mechanism in place. It requires about six of these glue ups.

I've been using XTC-3D, which is a two part epoxy, as the adhesive. It generally works well, but for reasons that elude me the epoxy sometimes does not cure completely and a boundary will separate under pressure at some point. I can pry them apart and the epoxy is tacky. This is after a couple of weeks.

Does anyone have a favorite adhesive that they use for their resin prints for structural parts? I do use CA glue for some things and that generally works well, but I can't use it in all circumstances. The epoxy is great in that it has a reasonably long set time, which is good for some of the more complicated assemblies.

My assemblies do have a couple locator pins for alignment and I added a tiny channel to one glue surface of each assembly to trap glue and add some surface. It is mainly a butt joint, though. Epoxy is probably the answer, but I find the XTC-3D to be unreliable. I don't know if it just really fussy about the mix ratio.

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Parts disassembled, stickers removed to reverse and reuse later on, and its ready to go for bodypaint preparation and painting.

Will be using 2 part Epoxy RAL1028 paint on the exterior since I want a Solvent resistant finish :)

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Having used my lashed up heater (See Photonsters on github for link) for a while and found it gave good, consistent prints, I decided that the time had come to integrate it more completely with the Photon.
I removed the superfluous extractor fan (Picture 1) and useless filter (Picture 2) from the back right hand corner of the print chamber and used the fan as a template for a cover plate. I cut a hole in the cover plate for the wires and fixed the heater fan to it using epoxy resin. A couple of important points: The heater fan needs to be fixed aligned to the front edge of the plate or you won’t get any fixing screws in. The heater fan must be blowing the hot air onto the back panel and not forward onto the vat. This is to avoid hot spots on the vat and significant drafts on the print as it grows out of the vat.
Once the heater fan had been secured in position using the short screws liberated from the filter (Pictures 3 & 4), I fitted a 3-way connector block using one of the retained fan screws. The motherboard connector from the discarded extractor fan was liberated and new red/black twisted pair of wires used to connect to the block. The fan was connected to this supply and wires taken out from it through the back grill to power the thermostat. Make sure that the fan is connected red to +12V and black to 0V or it will run backwards! (Picture 5) The red heater wire was connected to the third point on the connector and a long red wire from it passed through the back grill. The black wire from the heater goes straight through the back grill.
A 2-way connector block was fitted to the back panel using the remaining extractor fan screw to replace one of the back grill fixing screws. One day I might replace this with a plug! The black wire from the heater went to one terminal and a red wire went from the other to the load connector on the thermostat, along with the red wire from the heater. The load wires and the thermostat supply wires were held in place with a strip of gaffer tape (Picture 7) with some slack at the top to allow for the hinge. Note that I now have a 12V thermostat and not the 220Vac one originally used. The thermostat unit is glued to the top. The sensor is passed through a hole in the side as shown in Picture 8.
So what happens? A 12V supply of at least 15A is attached to the 2 way connector for the heater. When the Photon is switched on, there is a short delay while the motherboard boots up. The circulating fan and thermostat are then switched on and the print bay is brought up to the selected working temperature.
Whilst I am happy with this, I do not take any responsibility for problems that others might have with their motherboard or other parts of the Photon by following my lead.

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Hi all, I m looking for a clear coat spray when I chanced upon this. Wonder if it works the same? Also I wonder which work better the normal clear coat or epoxy with hardener?

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Question: So what is exactly is UV Resin that we are using? Is it epoxy? or acrylic? I just realized that I have no idea.

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There's some scratch-looking marks on the chest and legs area. Not sure what's causing this. Will probably just patch it with wood filler or epoxy. Just the tail pieces left to print!

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