Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » FDM

Hey everyone, so I had a question. What is a good FDM printer to match with the Photon? I am planning on getting back into 3D modeling and am looking for a good FDM for the larger prints. I was Looking at the Ender 5 but not 100% sold on it yet

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This printer is amazing for the price and a easy learning curve from fdm, it all starts with bed leveling for both.

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I am relatively new to resin printing, I’ve only been at it for a couple of months. I come from eight plus years of FDM printing. I have only used resins from two different manufacturers: AnyCubic and 3D Resin Solutions. I am not affiliated with either company in any way, but I wanted to provide my experiences with the resins, hoping it will help others in the group.

The model used for my tests consists of four (4) 1:64 scale groundhogs (see photo - for reference they are on graph paper with 5 squares per inch). They were printed on an AnyCubic Photon. The file was supported and sliced in ChituBox. After printing they were washed in an IPA (91%) bath (part in IPA container, IPA container in Ultrasonic filled with water) for 280 seconds, dried with canned air (removes all IPA), then placed in a UV nail curing station for 30 minutes (turning them over at 15 minutes).

AnyCubic Green (the one that came with the printer)

Smell – moderate

Print Settings: Layer = 0.05mm, normal exposure = 10, bottom layers = 8, bottom exposure = 50

Results & Impressions: the file printed successfully. However, the green resin is very brittle even before final curing. As a result, I could not successfully remove the supports from the print without breaking parts of the print off. My groundhogs became footless and tailless. The prints couldn’t be used at this point so I did no further work.

Conclusion: I don’t want to use this resin ever again if I don’t have too.

AnyCubic Gray

Smell – moderate

Print Settings: Layer = 0.05mm, normal exposure = 10, bottom layers = 8, bottom exposure = 50

Results & Impressions: the file printed successfully. The gray is not as brittle as the green and I could successfully remove the supports prior to final cure. However, after final cure removing supports caused breakage on the model; feet only the tails survived. After the final cure the model was easier to chip while removing supports. Support bumps that were left and went through final cure were removed by sanding. The support bumps could no longer be cut off with a hobby knife or scalpel (I prefer a scalpel for the small objects I print). The gray sands well and takes acrylic paints well; very easy to cover and no problems with paint remaining tacky.

Conclusion: a good quality resin that is capable of printing small scale items. Not to brittle before final cure, a little more brittle afterwards. A good “go to” resin for general prints.

3D Resin Solutions – Custom Color

Yes, they mix and sell custom color resin and at the same price as their standard color resin.

Smell – light, hardly noticeable

Print Settings: Layer = 0.05mm, normal exposure = 15, bottom layers = 8, bottom exposure = 70

Results & Impressions: love that it basically doesn’t smell. It is a thicker resin and when printed maintains a somewhat flexible state; it is not brittle at all. I can easily remove the supports from my little groundhogs before or after final cure without any problems. The support bumps can easily be trimmed with a scalpel or hobby knife negating the need for sanding. The resin takes acrylic paints well; very easy to cover and no problems with paint remaining tacky.

Conclusion: a great resin with little smell that is not brittle before or after final cure. My favorite resin so far.

Conclusion

The 3D Resin Solutions is my preferred resin, especially given the small items that I print. I also like that they offer custom colors and are located in the United States. You can actually get in contact with the folks there and they offer amazing Customer Service. You can order directly from them and shipping is very reasonable. AnyCubic Gray will become my backup resin which I order from Amazon.

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Anyone here ever print a chainmail sample? I’ve wanted to try on my FDM, but imagine if it prints well, resin would look amazing.

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When final fitting and gluing parts together I sometimes need to do gap filling. Useful little tool I printed on my FDM in nylon filament - measuring device for small amounts of epoxy putty - circular indents go from 5mm to 10mm across - squidge in part A, smooth off the top, pick it out and repeat for part B. I used nylon cause it's very strong. Maybe could be done in a tough resin.

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So, my 26 hour ( or so) print. Just getting used to resin and the photon. Cant wait to clean him up and paint. Just for giggles, the longest print I've had with my fdm printer is 45 hours. That was for one part, whole model took something like 300+ hours.

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Had my photon for just over a week now. It is working well though taking a bit to figure out proper supports compared to FDM printing. Have some nice minis printed out.

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I've been wanting a 3D printer to make minis. I live in an apartment, and I'm concerned about the toxicity of the fumes. So far what I've read is that DLP printers can be smelly, but the only air toxicity issues I've seen come from papers researching FDM printers. Is there any definitive answer to whether DLP printers are safe in terms of the fumes?

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Hello everyone, thanks for letting me in the group. I have many years of FDM printing and currently own 2 Prusa MK3s. I want to get into Resin printing, and the Photon seems ideal. Is it worth paying more for the S model? Also what do you guys use for washing and curing please?

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After running a day or two of tests, I'm trying to print my first action figure using a roughly 50/50% mix of Siraya Tech flexible "Tenacious" resin and regular black.

It's a bit disappointing that I have to use such a high ratio because (A) the Siraya stuff is super expensive and (B) it makes smaller parts semi-transparent, but the degree of flexibility is inversely proportional to the thickness of the part, which makes perfect sense.

I noted on my test prints that the tiny 1.5mm support columns become semi-flexible (like the teeth of a comb) at about 33% Siraya but the 13mm wide part I was trying to print was still completely solid. At 50% Siraya, the 13mm tube is still utterly inflexible, but I've got a tiny amount of bend on the 3mm raft, and the 1.5mm support pieces bend easily with something close to the flexibility of most fingers and small accessories on vinyl action figures (though they will snap and break off if you bend them too far).

50/50% is probably the best mixture I'm likely to get without also having parts that are completely see-through. (I've learned that flexible = unpaintable, so what you see is what you get.) I may get slightly better opacity results with resins that aren't black, since it's semi-translucent to begin with. I'm curious as to what this stuff will look like mixed with Anycubic Flesh.

I've had to adapt my usual FDM printing plug design to incorporate a U-shaped hole in the center that I hope will give the two prongs enough flex to fit into the sockets and then elasticize back into place so they don't pop out again after assembly.

Assuming no misprints, I should know by tomorrow morning if it's worked.

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