Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » FDM

Practical 3D prints.
It seems like many people here use their Photon for making ornamental or game models.
I would be interested in hearing from anyone using their 3D printer for more practical uses, casting, tool making, or even making useful things for around the house, for your car or bikes.
So what are you all up to?
I will probably be using mine for making upgraded parts for my FDM printer, along with prototyping and developing car parts for my work.

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This is a shadow demon (thanks Miguel Zavala ) for my current campaign in eSun Bioresin clear at .05, 8 bottom layers at 60s, 6.5s between layers, 11s per layer.

Still need to clean it up a bit, but probably won't paint. The resin gave a nice "frosted glass" look after curing. (Probably could have taken more time in the IPA, but I'm pretty happy with it.). The only settings I /might/ change would be the bottom layers, was tough to get off the build plate, but wasnt too bad.

(His friend behind him is another one of Miguel's models I printed on my FDM printer, an earth elemental primed and ready to paint)

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I am experienced with FDM Printing, but not resin. So I have been watching this group, as well as the Epax X1 group for a couple of months, and am getting close to pulling the trigger on buying either a Photon, PhotonS or Epax X1.
So what would you guys have to say about the three different machines?
Times change quickly in this hobby, I know a couple of months ago the advice was to avoid the PhotonS for several reasons and buy the Photon instead.
In the Epax group, if I ask them, they all seem to be Epax evangelists, so I worry that the advice might be very objective, whereas in here, you all seem relatively level headed about your kit.
So what do you all think? If you could spend your money again, would it be a Photon, PhotonS or Epax X1?

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Finally ordered my Anycubic Photon S last night to go with my other FDM printers, can’t wait to try out resin printing, that’s if my wife doesn’t kill me first because I also ordered 3 x 5 litre bottles of grey, clear and white resin, a CMYK pigment set and some Resinaway from Monocure 3D which she isn’t aware of.

Anyone in Aus who’s interested, Monocure has a 33% discount until the end of August on Grey, White and Clear resin any size with the code AUG33OFF until the end of August.

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Really amazed with strength of resin prints compared to fdm prints. I dropped this on concrete while prying of the bed and only the little tiny railing seems to be broken. A fdm print of say pla would of broke in half if not more

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Guys and Gals. I have a question. I've done Lithophanes on my FDM printer a few times and it's real fun. But now I wanna try doing it on my Photon.

So I got a few questions.
1, What color do I need (only got light grey at the moment)
2, what settings is good for the STL, I mean thickness and such when I convert the picture.
3, what settings are good on the actuall slice? Will 50 or 100um work? Will I need supports and so on.

And in advance. Thanks for the help :)

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I don't know if it's the resin fumes, but I've started talking to my printers like they are people. It really all started the day after I started using my Photon and realized I needed that thing that holds the print bed in the ultrasonic cleaner. My Ender 3 printed it and it was cherry. I mean, pristine print for FDM and I naturally congratulated him. I mean it. I mean, I didn't want him to feel jealous or inferior because of my time with the Photon, either. But damn, that was clean. So today I go down to check on the duct Ender is printing to help with the fumes and again, he's... er it's killing it. Looks amazing. So again, I give him/it the positive reinforcement I think he/IT deserves. So then I checked on Photon who is printing a gaslands motorcycle for me and he's doing great as well! So I gave him a good job too. That's when it felt weird. That's when I knew I had a problem.

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I've seen a bunch of, what I would call, troubleshooting posts. With my FDM printer I use the S3D Print Quality Guide (link in comments). Is there such a thing for resin printers?

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Wood putty for the win? Had to change resin at the end of a long print and shortly after changing resin had it almost fail (the head was 3/4ths bisected; alas I didn't take a picture before). Filled the gap with some superglue then wood putty, did some light sanding, and after painting it's pretty hard to tell there was ever a problem. Yeah, I'm pretty messy with the wood putty and lost some slight detail on the head. I think smearing it all over the FDM rock actually helped its finish though.

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Anyone looking for tools to get prints out of IPA w/out needing to put gloves on, I use these guys. You can "set" your tension to be pretty delicate. I use gloves for really delicate parts, but these things are easy and quick to print on your FDM.

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