Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

I just wanted to put it out there that Sparkmaker's LCD-N resin is by far the best engineering resin I've come across so far. I can fold a calibration matrix completely over on itself, make a crease, and it still holds together. I haven't printed anything other than the calibration matrix yet, but I'm so excited to have found a non-brittle resin. As icing on the cake, it has very little odor and it cures quickly. Print settings are: 0.04mm layer height, 6s exposure, 1s off time, 40s bottom exposure, 6 base layers.

I bought some of their LCD-T resin and will give that a try soon too.

It's too bad it's so expensive, but when you need functional parts, this is absolutely the best I've found so far

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Has anyone figured out a way to prevent finished parts from getting hazy after cleanup? These parts are FTD IB Red. I washed them in 91% IPA, then in soapy water, then in plain water (edit: then cure for a few minutes with a UV lamp). Is there a way to keep the color looking rich and uniform?

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Has anyone tried dying resin prints? I know it can be done with nylon prints and fabric dye. Does the technique cross over? Has anyone tried dying resin prints? I know it can be done with nylon prints and fabric dye. Does the technique cross over? 翻譯年糕

Here are some pictures of my printer enclosure and ventilation solution. I printed a duct that fits two 120mm Noctua NF-F12 fans that pull air out of the enclosure and out the window. I sealed gaps in the enclosure either with caulk or some adhesive-backed foam. It keeps fumes out of the room pretty well, though I think I'll need to get a respirator for when I have the door open while setting up prints.

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Just made my first prints the other night, and I'm glad I managed to get a real part out of it! However I know I can get more precision out of the printer. The support side of both parts are a bit wavy. Does anybody know what settings I need to tweak to help eliminate that? These prints were made with Anycubic resin on factory settings (except I bumped the first layer exposure to 60) I'll post a screenshot of my build plate in a sec.

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I just had a thought and was curious if anyone has more knowledge about this than I do:

I remember seeing a TED talk by the creator of the Carbon3D technology. (Link: https://www.ted.com/…/joe_desimone_what_if_3d_printing_was_… ) He mentions using a gas-permeable membrane to inhibit curing of the resin in a very thin layer above the surface of what amounts to the FEP sheet.

There are some medical companies that mass-produce gas-permeable films (though most are adhesive, but clearly the ability to make optically clear, gas-permeable films exists). I wonder if one could replace the standard FEP with a gas-permeable film to minimize suction and improve longevity?

It may be a moot point since this would be highly dependent on the composition of the resin (I know Carbon3D is pouring a lot of energy into the engineering of their resins). But maybe it's worth experimenting with? The real trick will be finding a non-adhesive, gas-permeable clear film.

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