ANYCUBIC PHOTON FEP ISSUE SOLVED
:)
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Dear all anycubic photon UC LCV 3D printer users and friends, after SO MANY bad prints and frustration, finally I was able to print proper test models without having the print attached to the FEP vat ! Main tricks that worked for me:
- Engrave a grid with mesh 3mmx 3mm into the building plate using a sharp blade and a ruler. Do not make the engraved lines too deep and very gently sand afterwards in order to remove any debris. The plate is still light blueish so do not sand too much!
- Do NOT completely unscrew the Allen screw on the tilt mechanism of the building plate when leveling since when you screw it the plate move down and you loose your Z-reference ! BUT, almost screw it tight and then slightly unscrew it just to allow the building plate to very slowly move and tilt with some resistance.
- Set ZERO height with FEP vat in place, pushed down on the LCD by the 2 lateral red screws. Go to HOME z-position and then move Z down until you cannot rotate the plate on the FEP anymore, feeling some resistance ( Flint Read's method
https://youtu.be/roAqm5c3rfU
worked better for me VERSUS the anycubic default one
https://youtu.be/qEaNVfT8y9w
)
In my case it was about 12 steps of 0.1mm each (on my printer!). Press evenly on the building plate with your fingers to keep it in place, flattened on the pressed FEP and LCD, and screw tight the Allen screw on the building plate.
- Move Z up 2 steps of 0.1mm in order to have about 10 net step down from HOME. RECORD the ZERO position in the menu of the pinter.
- Check a "fake" print WITHOUT resin. At the first layer, the building plate seems to slightly press on the FEP film and the Z-arm (supporting the plate via the red screw) can sometimes very very gently bends a bit downwards (~ 0.5mm). If the building-plate press too much on the FEP and LCD, and the Z-motor goes too down, and the Z-arm bends more than 1-2 mm, you will probably hear a bad strange noise. In this case STOP the print immediately and repeat the ZEROING again, this time with one less step down, for example only 9 or 8 steps down of 0.1mm from the HOME position (in my few tests 8-11 0.1mm steps down form HOME should work).
- NB: FEP film tension should give a drum-like sound in the range of about 200-270 Hz (tune it using this online tool:
http://www.szynalski.com/tone-generator/
)
-BE VERY CAREFUL with such procedure, at your own risk.
-Good Parameters I have tried with Anycubic Gree Resin and the boat test sample (
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2576310
) reduced to 60% (~ 1cm total height):
0.04 mm Layer at 12 sec
5 bottom Layer at 60-70 sec
1h 10 min INTERRUPTED after about 40 min
Very nice resolution and details
Strong Layer adhesion
and
0.08 mm Layers at 16 sec
5 bottom Layer at 70-80 sec
Nice resolution and Half time than before, 37 min
Some Layers show poor adhesion (--> increase time to 18sec)
Top part hollow very small cylinder remained attached to the FEP
:(
STRANGE OBSERVATIONS (look the pictures at high magnification); It seems that the Layer thickness also set the lateral X-Y resolution of the print and the voxel looks always cubical even at different Layer thicknesses !
I do not know how it happens since I though that such XY lateral resolution was just fixed due to the LCD pixel size.
Since the overall size of the print is the same it should be composed by the same number of pixels (~50umx50um each) so I am a bit confused.
Maybe the thicker layer also diffuse light on a broader range making the voxel looking also broader (?). if this is the case then Layer thickness and lateral resolution are dependent !
I never though about it
?
.
Check the magnified images that I have taken with a 4 EUR 60-100x microscope (
https://goo.gl/images/8sm7wS
) and my old smartphone camera.
(0.04 mm first and 0.08 mm later, recognizable by bigger layer and pixel size and by some layers detaching!)
Good luck with your prints
翻譯年糕
