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So 18-20s exposure? Seems really high! First go with Siraya blue

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Question time again! A bit of an expansion on my previous “bottom side prints blobby” question....

First issue: So this airship was printed in two pieces. In theory, the two halves should sit flush together. But the “bottoms” on both pieces are so “blobby” it doesn’t even come close.

Second issue: Even after two IPA baths, they seem to be leaking resin from the inside from various points. It was a hollowed model so presumably there is some uncured resin inside, but shouldn’t it be staying inside?

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Strange horizontal line across each of these figures. It’s a lot harder to see on the figure on the right, but it’s there. They are both at different heights on the z-axis though. What’s the likely culprit of these?

No pauses, opening the door, or anything during either print job.

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Curious if anyone can shed some light on this. My prints are coming out pretty good on all sides except the "bottom", which is coming out a blobby mess.

The first pic shows the bottom of a partially painted figure, and you can see up towards the top everything is crisp, and on all other sides of the figure, the detail is sharp, but around the treads and the lower body its very blob-like.

The second photo shows the image in Chitubox - printed upright but on a platform of supports.

The third shows the print settings. Anyucubic Green resin.

This has been true across pretty much everything I've printed. Thoughts? Or is this just the way it is?

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Appears to be a very thin layer of cured resin on the LCD. Does this mean a FEP leak? Also, suggestions on getting this off? Just chipping away with the plastic scraper?

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Are you supposed to be able to open up .photon files with Chitubox? Everytime I try it crashes Chutubox. Im trying to edit a previously designed print file without have to start from scratch again.

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How does cured Anycubic resin do in extreme heat, such as a hot car on a summer day? From a miniature war gaming background, the reasons that usually make our figures will melt - is this the same? (Assuming cured and painted)

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Had my first real "failed" print today after one week of 95% successes.

So I was printing eight more or less identical figures. Settings that I've used successfully on this set of figures a couple times already.

The four on the left side of the build plate ended up half-printed, and everything except the supports was stuck in the vat. The four on the right side of the build plate printed off just fine.

There were two new variables in this print: I went from printing 7 at a time, to 8 at a time, and I went from using green to orange resin.

I've cleaned out the vat. Do I need to relevel? Anything else I need to do other than try again?

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So I know about the spreadsheet with recommend settings and all that, but I'm curious as to what the settings actually mean.

Layer thickness: Does a smaller thickness = more detail? And presumably a smaller thickness = longer print time?

Normal exposure time: This is the time the light from the screen is displaying? So the larger the thickness, the longer this should be? And presumably also a longer time = longer print time. Is there any benefit to raising this, or should I aim to keep it as short as the print will allow?

Bottom Layers/Bottom Exposure Time: What exactly does this do for the print? What is the advantage to more bottom layers?

Light-off Delay: Is this the time the LCD is not displaying? Would this be before or after the printer raises the Z axis? What impact does this have on the print?

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Not strictly Photon related, but Chitubox question...(I couldnt find a Chitibox instruction manual...)

When hollowing things, am I supposed to select each component one at a time and press the hollow button for each? I just assumed since the graphic shows the "hollowing process" screen wide that it effected everything, but I have a current print run going on with 4x of a figure, and only one appears to be printing hollow based on the display screen on the Photon...

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