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Got a hammer?

I'll take that as there is no simple way to remove a side window?

A hoe might work. Would be awkward though.

hmm k well seems there's no way to ventilate this unit without increasing its height. I can't find anywhere online that can confirm if these side windows are removable

Slowly without craking it. Using a plastic tool.

Not if you pay her enough...

Yes. They have a part that will replace the back plate with vent connector
Do it up just like you would a dryer.
If you really want to McGiver it up you can put an inline computer fan in the ducting.

I thought the photon s didn't have the back plate like the original photon

Andrew Cameron ooooooo. You might be right. Sorry

right now this is the only thing holding me back from buying. No proper way to ventalate

Pre is definitely easier imo

Noise is much less

I’ve used dozens of resins

Lithophane are awesome on resin and yes you can go thin but the model can declare where

The orientation needs to be modified often

John Chrapkowski orientation needs to be modified?

John Chrapkowski of the dozens are certain brands better, certain colors more cooperative? Do some cure better then others?

tilt the model to:
Reduce surface area of each print layer

for the resin brands, I’ve not had too many bad experiences except I am not a fan of the water washable

John Chrapkowski so doing a 12cmx12cm tile like I showed in the image would not work?

Andrew Cameron it’s very thin so I would print it like that. Many will say tilt it but for such a small cross section you’ll be fine. If you’re doing many, I would move them around for each print to reduce wear on the FEP ( clear plastic on the bottom of vat) in a specific spot

John Chrapkowski not sure what the fep is. you mean the fep film? How long does the average fep last?

fep is the clear plastic that the layer is cured on, if all goes well it’s pulled off and sticks to the rest of the model. Durability is variable but I’ve found it to be pretty good. Around 30-50 prints. Cost is a couple dollars to replace

as for colors, transparent generally are shorter cure times and therefore ‘easier’ I suppose maroon seems to be really difficult for some reason

John Chrapkowski where are you finding these for a couple dollars I am seeing around 15 - 35 a sheet on amazon

First page on amazon. So these are 4 or 5 packs. I get two per sheet so a 5 pack is 10 replacements. You can buy in bulk for more savings

Thanks for the loads of great info!

What you're basically printing is something the Photons have been proven good a heap of times. It's a Lithopane. Hit the search box for the group with that key-word and you'll see what I mean.

r.e. resins, i.m.o. there are MUCH better resins than anyc ubic out there. I swear by Monocure Rapid 3d, but Sriraya (spelling?) also have a great rep. Treat resins just like you treat filaments. Sure you can probably buy the stuff with your printer's brand on the label, but it doesn't necesarily work any better with your printer than other stuff.

no this is just a terrain stl tile, not based on a photo not wanting to do lithopanes. Is the way I would have it angled on the bed an issue?

Andrew Cameron not on my experience. I keep having my large bases fail. I've tried flat, upright, 20d degree off axis and 45 degree.

William Tatum you talking about printing something like the picture?

Andrew Cameron yes. Largish, thinnish, flat structures for me warp, deform, or fail depending on plate orientation. Meanwhile my regular models, even large, but thick bits, do just fine.

It's the one area where I've had consistent failures.

crap. Back to the drawing board on the printer to buy. Wonder how people are getting thin lithopane prints without it warping then

Max height at top of door swing is 28 inches

Most minis I print are 3-5 ml of resin for a 28mm scale single figure

damn I only have 19in height to work with. Wish I could just pull te top off frontward. Are the hinges removable? Probably not a safe thing to have to pull the entire unit out just to open the lid

Andrew Cameron Actually that’s a very easy thing to do...the way the case is designed with a lip all around where the door sits: the door will still sit good and the magnet still holds it in place. You just might wanna add a different handle to the front

Works great. I just tried it. I removed the hinge screws. It sets in well,but just for piece of mind,I would place a few neodymium magnets between casing and door for safety

I removed the screws from the hinge and slide it straight out, I had similar height restrictions due to my cabinet

Awesome thx for letting me know :)

My problem was it sits too close to the wall and the door wouldn't open all the way. So I came up with my own solution.