Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

Maybe I am doing it wrong but I download stl files, load them in chitubox, add supports, slice in chitubox and take it straight to the printer

I also do this.

That works too but the Photon File Validator checks and makes sure you don't have any areas that need supports that don't have them

You will almost never get a completely artifact free print. If you really want one use the swap tool to manually fix the layers that are broken after the second scan.

Slicing and moving the model can both produce islands.

Yessik Ziiq What swap tool are you talking about?

Use prusa slicer chitubox puts random filled layers when it shouldn’t

Wayne Mitchell I also do it this way lol

Thomas A Coffey Jr If in the validator you click on the section that contains the error, it brings up a closer view. there's then the option between pencil and swap. If you use swap you can select a group of pixels to "turn on".

Yessik Ziiq didn’t know about that option. Just tried it and I can see his it works but what exactly does it do?

It does exactly what you'd think you can use it to connect any island to the nearest printed part. It'll only hold for about 5 layers, but that's usually enough to allow the print to proceed.

It turns unlit pixels. Into kit pixels.. You are basically adding parts to the next layer.

With this you cna fix some overhangs but most islands still won't print as the connection via 1 layer of pixels won't be strong enough. You can't fix real islands, but you can fix some stuff that was already close to being supported by the model itself.

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Yessik Ziiq gotcha, now that makes sense. Thanks ?

Thomas A Coffey Jr No problem I wouldn't worry too much though, if you go through the validator once and fix everything it should prints. I do the pre supports for Titan Forge and we couldn't even validate this and it printed fine. (ignore the bullet holes, those are from my screen dying.

Don't expect File Validator to fix sliced broken meshes. You should try to fix the mesh first with something like Netfabb, then slice the model. Unfortunately a lot of models look great on the outside but have a birds nest internally. Repair/check your mesh first then slice. You'll be happier for the experience. I believe meshmixer can also validate files, as can Blender both are free.

Gamers typically use 1 inch = 6 feet, which is roughly 25mm-28mm for minis. And your mileage may vary with game too.
Reaper (at reapermini.com ) uses Sir Forscale ( https://www.reapermini.com/....../sir....../latest/77008 ) in their pictures

28mm is standard for the likes of warhammer, you can go larger but 28mm works good for detail without using too much resin

John there is definitely a standard, the angry Gods will get you if you don't adhere to them. :P If your planning on selling any you will probably have to adhere to some standard. Here's a link that deals with your question dealing with scal, proportion relative scales absolute scales etc etc. https://alkony.enerla.net/....../miniatures-a-question......

3 years worth of painting...lol..

Awesome ? ?

On the light cabinet , very top left , who is that bust of ? I only paint busts mainly I haven't seen that one. Great displays

Nosferatu / Vampire from thingiverse.

Kempster Kevin nice

No shame there!

Matthew Eastman I lied myminifactory. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-vampire-43016 https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-vampire-43016

Which do you prefer photon or mini?

i think you don have it. let me give you a bust for your colletion

I feel honoured that my Samurai bust is amongst such esteemed company!

Jason Buck depends on the print. Tall/ large stuff sonic mini. Minis Photon. Either machine is great though, but I did up grade the z on the photon.

Kempster Kevin I have an S and I do a lot of mini's for dnd. Wondering if with the shorter print time it makes sense to just switch to that.

What do you think of the Sonic mini vs the Photon. I’m thinking of picking up another printer and wanted to try something a little different.

Jason Buck I mainly use the photon because of the validator. I can add bridges to hard to support areas. The metal slug tank was done on the photon for that reason.

Leavon Archer you did a great job. I’ll eventually be picking up the full-size figure.

Kempster Kevin thanks Kevin, you've got some great looking prints there.

The backlog of shame

Dan Gump I really like both, but the minis z is rock solid and I needed to upgrade the photons. Plus the speed of the mini is awesome 6 1/2 hrs on the mini is a 12 hour print on the photon.

I dont see a single baby yoda. Do you even print bro? ? ? ?

Kempster Kevin what about quality of the prints? Are they as nice?

Dan Gump slight edge to the photon.

Daniel Moody that was one of the few I finished. Went to the sister for Xmas.

I don’t have a bookshelf or cabinet big enough for all my unpainted printed models. So it’s not that bad.

there’s more but they are to big to fit. I have to make another display case for those.

what resin do you mainly use? looking around for what to invest for miniatures printing. Great collection!

Kempster Kevin haha I was just teasing

Philippe Tremblay Siraya tech fast grey

So you're the guy who took all the resin!

Kempster Kevin thanks for that , I love anything busts

Do you paint at all ?

Not as much as I should

Kempster Kevin love the banana guy

Grab a brush ...

And the IPA to process it all :)

Looks like there is no pigment in the bits that broke, did you shake the resin bottle before pouring into the tray?

Neil Forster Yes, hence all the tiny air bubbles. I was also thinking that this test file is set up for anycubic resins, but I’m a newbie to resin.

As you say possibly because of different manufacturer but the colour should be right through the resin, if you have any different resin I would give it a try or if you have settings from Nova3d for their resin download and re-slice the test with better settings

Neil Forster Thanks, I will stir up the vat, and print it with the recommended nova3d settings from the google doc.

did you check the date on the bottle?

Daniel Rønning just got it last week from amazon, but there is no date.

Bill Leone weird, my bottles have dates on them, so I don’t know ??‍♂️

Daniel Rønning the anycubic eco has a date, but the siraya doesn’t.

Bill Leone ??‍♂️ ??‍♂️ ??‍♂️ ??‍♂️

Yes do this. If u look closely ull note that there is a bezel on the screen. I taped around all 4 corners and I've had almost perfect successes.

Definitely level AFTER you put down the tape.

So you only tape on the LCD screen?

Kevin Michael Farrell I have mine spanning the narrow gap between the LCD and the frame of the machine.

William Tatum , thanks! I'll give that a try.

I've been having trouble with certain layers (usually the primary support or sometimes the entire platform) sticking to the FEP. But it only happens in a certain region of the plate (a circular section in the middle of the plate, closest to me). Also, most of my platforms are pulled up from the plate on one side. The good news is that they are really easy to get off the plate, but I worry that detail is getting messed up since the platform is flopping around.

Kevin Michael Farrell that might also be underexposure on your base layers.

I'll try that too. But what is strange is that these same prints used to print fine. We have been having some weird temperature changes here and that might be the cause.

I can't click manipulate or spin the Plater screen at all. I can mess with the other tabs. I tried reinstalling once but it still looks the same.

Zoom out with your scroll wheel. this looks fully zoomed in

The scroll wheel does not work.

Brendan Wood Version 2.2.0? maybe try an older version, like 2.1.1 .... the latest version might still have development issues.

Same thing, 2.1.1 isn't working either :/

cura is great for fdm printers, i wonder if fcura will ever add rain printers

This is the one I use. It does a good job, and it's very quiet (then again, I'm no longer a teen and can't hear above 20KHz, so YMMV).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072JXQ9P5

I found the ultrasonic to be incredibly underwhelming in terms of results. I ended up unplugging mine and going back to swirling jars lol. But its possible mine was just shit

Alex Clarke hmmmm. I certainly wouldn’t want that. Maybe I should just keep the jars. Are you using IPA? I have a bit, but not sure of enough for this lack of supply

I'm waiting for a chemistry magnetic stirrer to arrive (similar to the clean and cure system. Tried ultrasonic but wasn't too impressed either.
As I only have the Zero a magnetic stirrer and wide metal grid/stand for inside the container to let the cl eaner circulate should be more than enough.
The ultrasonic ones I've seen and used mostly seem to just be a motor with an offset weight vibrating the pan, not an actual ultrasonic doo-dad instead of a 'proper' piezo-electric plate. Not sure if they're all like that.

Rick Graham methyl hydrate. Its a paint thinning agent. Like 1/4th the price and no odor

Alex Clarke I don’t think I’ve heard of anyone using that

Ive been plugging it for months but half this group is dense and they keep claiming Mr Clean is a solvent. Lol

Michael Alexander Caddick that’s what I use and it’s way better than ultrasonics. Way less noise, Any size container, drop a pill into the resin and stir that without adding air, the list goes on

I'm not sure the printer supports NTFS at all so I'm surprised it would print at all.

It isnt now lol wont even read the drawings.. what format is it?

To be honest, I think you should format your USB to FAT32

Yeah FAT32 is basically the standard for USB drives since it's so simple and universally supported

FAT32, 16GB and under. USB 2.0 and under.

Looks like your LCD is shot.

Is that the only model that happens on?

I had something very similar happen on my FDM printer when a few of the normals on the model weren't facing the right way; it confused the slicer and so it started joining up things that should have been separate.

Corrupted file or LCD is going bad.

Or crap usb stick

Probably a bad file or drive. I had a similar problem trying to print bases.

Thanks I will reslice file and try. I will try a different file to see if it works.

USB is good

Maybe change you USB key?