Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

May be the type of resin. Opaque resins take way longer to cure then translucent or transparent. I use Elegoo Gray and sometimes my models are a little sticky. Throw it in the curing chamber for another hour or two and that seems to do the trick.

Funnily enough, I was about to make the same post. I'm experimenting with Siraya blu clear and it feels tacky after ultrasonic cleanse. I use mean green as well, then dunk in warm water to rinse before curing.

Because you are using a detergent rather than a solvent to clean your parts. If you are using detergent, you have to scrub more, and some resins are more resistant than others.

Omar Silva - Siraya specifically recommends solvent cleaning for all of their resins.

Omar Silva I am using siraya blue also

Try a final rinse in gold, er IPA.

I had this problem with abs-like resins. Curing them in water solved the issue.

Jim Nelson so
You submerge them
In water then put the cup in front of your UV light ?

Jason Pacheco I have done that, but more frequently I just put them in a clear plastic tub of water out in the sun. That solves two problems, the prints get cured and the water gets disposed of through evaporation.

Doooooooo ittttttt

I FEEL LIKE EVIL KENEVIL

Qui audet adipiscitur - SAS motto - who dares wins

“Don't fear failure. — Not failure, but low aim, is the crime. In great attempts it is glorious even to fail.” – Bruce Lee

Christopher Fugate that makes me feel more brave

The only thing that could make that cooler is if it's articulated. Please tell me it's articulated.

No guts no glory

T.R. Griffith it is! That's part of the reason I'm so scared to print it! Lol. The stl is called gaboon viper skeleton on thingiverse

If you just heard someone squeal like a little girl, it wasn't me. Please post the results.

Hahaa I would be extremely surprised if it worked.

I feel like it will fail. The segments aren't really connected to each other so you would need to support them at many places

why not split it into multiple parts and just create connection points to it and glue it in with superglue? wouldn't that be safer?

I’d cut it up and print it in different parts

Do it! If you feel like you've got the resin settings dialed in, it would be pretty great if it ended up working in a single piece.

Do it...

Joseph Soneji it's articulated

Mike Vayakornvichit I don't know how to slice yet, but also it's articulated so I don't know if that would work out so well

Nicolas Tsagarides that's what I'm feeling

Lol alright

oh..... articulated.. that's a different monster....... Good luck.

Might be better cutting it into smaller chunks so it can lay flat on bed

Ben Cox I'm trying to figure out how to do a resin test right now. XD I just started printing without testing when I got my printer a month ago, but now I feel like I should probably know what I'm doing.

I’d bet my money you’ll be fine. I’ve printed some wild stuff with overhangs and pointy parts like that

Scott Pavlich but was it articulated? XD

Shawn Atlas probably, but is that the example Evil Kenevil set for us?

James Teagle

Looks good to me! Take a chance and let us know how it came out!

I don't want to be a spoiler, but you should add supports in the lower ribs

There's a lot of fail going to happen there.

Scale it up and print each piece seperate

Cut a piece from the part you're most concerned about and run it by itself as a test piece. I do it all the time for models that look like they need crazy amounts of support

Mika Gruszka Your exposure and clearances need to be dead on, but it can be done: with the exception of the wheels and the extension that slides into the main arm, this one is:the swivel base, the hinged main arm, and the basket, all are articulated joints printed together...and work

Right? XD

Andrea Mainas I did. There are supports on all the beginning islands, it's just hard to see on the image

Dustin Skye so much fail

Chris Cowman didn't you battle against this creature last night?

Colin Hansen Perras every single articulated piece?

Jesus Garcia that's a good idea

Jacob Hocken that looks exactly the same 0_0

Gaboon viper skeleton?

Hope is an S at least. A standard photon may not fail but end like a real wobble

These areas may be of concern. Also your supports look too thin and will likely break.

Split a smal part to.test and try use validator to see if some part need to be suported

Whatever it was, it wasn't strong enough for my barbarian :P

Mika Gruszka would be the best way for perfect results. There are other ways, but this would give you the best prints over all

Mika Gruszka don't necessarily have to scale it

Colin Hansen Perras that sounds very tedious

XD bahaha

Mika Gruszka it's a tedious model :-) honestly, it wouldn't be so bad.

Ok. I'll add some thicker supports.

Yeah scroll through your slices. There are some islands in there

Put in a few medium or even heavy supports in "bendy" spots, or the model *will* detach.. learned this the hard way..

You need somemesiums at least, also, try to spot lowwst point of each section and support it, like Bee pointed with red arrows.

I need to know the resulr

Marko Knezevic I did support every islands I could find, for sure. There are some mediums thrown in there in the chaos but I think I might add more

Mika Gruszka yeah , but once islands are sorted, overhangs must be done. So on each "rib" put one support at very end of it.

why don't you orient it more on its back so all the rips grow up?

also you can segment the head

It would be too small. That's as "on it's back" as it goes. It's completely articulated too so shrinking it more would ruin the articulation

Mika Gruszka ah, nuts. Well good luck!

Rupert Dunn

Nextdent is a brand, but it gets expensive once you move into the materials that are FDA approved.

Zortrax, Poland. Their Raydent Crown & Bridge Resin comes out at $399.00 PER LITRE!!!

3Dresyns, Spain.They charge 200 Euros for a Litre: https://www.3dresyns.com/....../dental-3dresyn-od......

There's a company in Germany called DETAX but I can't get a price off them without signing up.

There's a company in the USA, Stratasys, but I think they only make materials for PolyJet machines . . .

https://www.youtube.com/....../UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFh......

https://www.chitubox.com/howto_17839_3.html

When - After the print finishes and is removed from build plate

Where - In a ventilated area

How - This one is loaded, some people throw the IPA in the Ultrasonic cleaner, those who like safety throw it in a small jar or baggie with the IPA and have the cleaner use water. Either way it cleans the model

After cleaning let the print dry completely before curing

May I suggest a magnetic stirrer? That’s what all these clean stations have. It has a couple improvements (imo) over ultrasonic:
- can use flammable cleaners directly in it
-the container is changeable so I can use a large enough one to fit my entire plate if desired
-you can drop a mixing pill into a resin bottle for bubble less mixing
- Much easier to clean

I'm in the same boat regarding purchasing either option. Are there known inexpensive options and containers that will work/interlock with them?

Chris Armstrong I use those cheap paint buckets from home improvement stores that come in various sizes

Thanks for the replies. Close to first try.

Bevore

After

Jesus

After

What's this upgrade?

Harley DeBeaudrap it's a dual rail that eliminates z wobble

Ahh

It is a Twin Rail Z Slide jacksonproducts.net but sadly out of stock right now. 4 weeks approx until available. Sorry

Simon Jackson don't forget to hit me up as soon as you have it

Bruno Shepard will do...

Does that answer why you haven't replied to my email then Simon Jackson about when my order will be dispatched

Kerry Emery Sorry... Checking now.

Kerry Emery No... not the answer. Yours is for Mars and I posted it on Monday. Tracking no coming by email

Simon Jackson thanks for the confirmation and the email tracking details

The level locking device is beautiful both in engineering and how clean the device looks when installed.

Instantly solved my failed prints due to the ball joint not holding strong when peeling print off fep.

Just look on his website. The top two in the gallery are my pics.
Jacksonproducts.net

There isnt much point making masks. They do very little to prevent the spread as its not an especially airborne disease. Mostly they increase the amount of times you touch your face (re-adjusting) and increase the likeleyhood of contaminating yourself accidently.

Jacob Palmer I find it amazing how the west is peddling this bullshit. I'm so sick of explaining it.... but hear we go again.

In asian countries where a mask for both protection and prevention is a courtesy.

Imagine this you are in a super market just minding your own business someone walking towards you coughs. The current estimates indicate a cough has approximately a 4 meter range. It had contaminated everything within range of the cough the virus is so small it has the potential to stay airborne for a few minutes leaving a mist for the next person to walk through. Let's say the person isn't wearing a mask and coughs onto their hand instead, they then proceed to pick through the super market goods so the virus can be spread for the next person to touch the goods.
Now imagine the same person is wearing a mask the majority of the stuff coming out of them will get caught. Any particles lingering in the air is caught on the next mask used by others before transmission.

Covid19 does not display symptoms from 4 days to 28 days but you are a carrier and contagious from the first day.

Unless the west changes its bs about masks your going to hurt a lot more than asia.

Anyway do your own research and use logic and critical thinking. Not meaning any insult just want you to think about it.

N95 mask makes sure to fit it well and cover both mouth and nose.

Stay safe.

I would also be interested but I feel and FDM printer would be more suited.

Lower your exposure

But hard to tell based on how far away it is if that's what would help

Alexander Bayerdorffer to what

It's small try 10, then 9.5

What resin are you using?

Lower layer hight .03 ?

Which printer and resin? How are you cleaning your mini? The shiny on the model looks like uncured resin that fills in details. I use a soft bristled toothbrush and IPA or ResinAway.

It is just overexposed :)

Lower layer height also requires lower exposure more

I had a similar issue and it was the cleaning and curing process. If you don’t have IPA try Acetone (very carefully) that fixed my issues

Using mean green

Using acetone

need a screen shot of models also in the slicer. so we can compare but it could be overexposed or under. so try 2 or 2 down on the normal exposure or exposure

Thank you guys all great suggestions I appreciate it. With this whole lock down thing I’m just trying to tighten up my print game.

The time you spent posting this you could of printed 10 of them with different settings. Just experiment, you're on the right track if its coming off the build plate looking like that!

If you print on an S your exposure is almost double than it should be

Mothy Reynolds or he can ask for help which is also acceptable and the point of the group ?

I use anycubic grey at 8 second exposure. I’m not convinced the cheap screens are all exactly the same in power though. Print several reducing your exposure by 1 second each time until failure then pick the most detailed mini.

He could also be wasting resin trying to attain a result that a member could help him achieve.

Ric Watts hi, new to this too. Is longer exposure actually worse? I figured it was the other way around.

Yamamoto Tifa think of it as a photograph. To much exposure and everything gets blurry. Too little and no picture at all. Once the part is “done” continuing to expose it will cause it round off the sharp edges and generally blur the model.

Well I've been doing it all wrong. Thanks!

Yamamoto Tifa start high then slowly go down until you get optimal detail.

Do this for each new type of resin you use.

Lay the mini down with its face up. Lot finer detail from the top

Try with the standard 1 second light off delay

LCD replacement. Used to be cheap...now not so. Amazon usually have them

Have you tried to check if the cable is loose/needs to be seated better?

Richard Humble thanks, I shall have a look.

Jayson Jacob Warren good point I haven't checked as I haven't moved the printer so didn't think that would be the cause of it. I shall double check anyway in case, thanks ?

i'm just going through the same thing - 3d jake have them instock and 4 day delivery for £55 - damn expensive in my view but seems to be the only option

Richard Webb I ordered this one which arrived this pm. I just need to watch a couple of videos now to figure out how to install.

thats different to the photon S screen it uses and LS055R1SX03 ( not SX04 ) the wire is different . not sure if anything else is different - but it will be interesting if it works. keep me informed please

just found the item and watched the video in the comments - BUGGER ! it comes with an adapter from v04 to v03 !.. please do let me know how it goes for you and I'll order one in as a spare !

So I’m curious, whats the likelihood that a screen cable would get detached if printer is not moved?

I mean to me based on the OPs statement that he’s had it for about a year, i would have instinctively said his screen was going bad. At a year old I’ve heard of people having to change screens after maybe 6 months.

Richard Webb uhm, I fiddled with the lcd screen on my photon s, I pried it to see if I can easily lift it out, it was quite hard and I couldn't manage it. I then decided to test the lcd again and oddly it seems to be fine, checked it a few times by using the exposure test and it's fine. Will try a print tomorrow and see. No idea why it is suddenly okay?!

I saw a number of posts saying that, and also that it started doing again after a short time. But fingers crossed for you. I found the easiest way to get the screen out was to push it up from the bottom, but there is a lot of dismantling to do that

Gary Slovinsky I double checked, I actually got the printer mid December 2019 so 3 months of heavy use. However my lcd screen appears to be okay at the moment, re-tested it after I tried to pry the screen off without success.

Patrick Harland if your screen appears fine now. Is it possible it was just a bad slice?? I’ve been known to get that on rare occasions with a FDM printer.

Wish I could give you advice on screen removal, I’m still on my original screen. I think I’ve heard it’s held in place w/double sided tape.

Mine has just arrived from 3djake. It is an 04 screen with the little adapter already attached !! Feel like ive been scammed !!!

Richard Webb and amazon have sold out of the one I bought heh

Yep. Did the fail print fall into the screen?

try unplug the power leave the machine off for 10 mins then power up again check screen. if fail check the cable connectors. try firmware update for the machine you have if its an old photon. then try the epax update. if you are using the photon-s or the new photon. then head to the website and update the firmware there.

Some resin leaked onto the screen and I scraped it off. It's a Photon S and has the latest official firmware on it. Do you think the EPax one would help?

nah epax is for the original classic its a dif mb

sounds like you pressed to hard to remove the resin. so yea screen might be dead. :(

Aye I really went for it with the plastic scraper :D