Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

What kind of resin? What are your settings? What is the room temp?

eelggo standard grey room temp is 65 to 70. bottom is 8 exposure off 6( not siting infront of printer usally don't move this one

bottom exposure 120

and exposure is set at 9.5 right now

all seems a little high, what is your layer height?

also what condition is your FEP in?

20 prints in. just had to switch it out

I would clean, re level, everything. Re level your machine so it doesn't rock, re level your build plate. Dump and filter your resin, then SHAKE your resin before putting it back in. If you have another USB stick, I would try that at this point; drop y our bottom exposure to about 100 and your exposure down to about 8 with a .05 layer height. Id do ONE hat right square in the middle and see what that gets you. If you get the same results, lets' talk about your slicer etc. Right now it looks like you have suction on the FEP fighting it's self so it's tugging harder at 2:00 on the top picture and sucking against 8:00 causing the warp; but that's just my first impression.

will try thank you

Good luck!

do you think flipping it would work better as well?

More doing everything that is the same size in the same batch till you get your layout-fu skills up. Like, run all the canes going the same direction in one batch, then all the hats of the same size in the next batch etc.

You absolutely can :)

According to many youtube videos it works quite well. But if you're anything like me in australia, methelated spirits is currently very hard to get just like IPA.

Methylated Spirits works ok, £7 for 2 litres odd in Toolstation BUT it honks the house out, maybe use outside and it can leave a reside behind so needs good scrup after.

My friend uses maths but like the other guy said it does reek! I've got some ipa turning up next week but I've paid a few quid extra for it....my saviour has been water washable resins, just using that at present

Not only stinks but it did upset my wifes chest upstairs when she was ill the other week. luckily my IPA arrived so could keep printing

I ordered from IPA from a uk site. So maybe it shows up. Not sure if they are open with all this going on.. We shall see :) thanks all

Bought a load of Elbow Grease to use in my ultrasonic after a recommendation from someone else in this group seeing as we don't have this Mean Green that the americans keep going on about. Just waiting for my current IPA batch to go bad before giving it a try, but for £2 a litre I'm hoping its awesome!

Max Morris where did you get it from?

Chris Page Most shops like Wilko/The Range/Poundstretchers have it in the cleaning section for around 80-90p. Normally used to get rid of grease stains in the kitchen. I got 10 0.5L Bottles off Amazon for £9.79

Mean Green.

Not available here in the UK!

Aha! I'm not allowed out, when I run out of IPA I'll see if I can order some. Fortunately I bought 5l of IPA in December

When I couldn't get any IPA I tried what seemed the closest equivilent to Mean Green in the UK. "Flash" all purpose cleaner. (Altough I used Lidls & Aldis own).

Takes longer but works good enough.

Methylated spirits (aka denatured alcohol) works fine. It contains 95% ethanol and 5% methanol.

Just ordered some CIF cleaner liquid from Viking-direct, see if that’s any good.

Exposure time is more? with translucent

Ryan Berkebile I use the anycubic resin and the bottle of any type they sell has a guideline on it....

If I understand it translucent requires less time

if they say you will get it friday, then you will. i've got stuff arriving today from them, no delay. they tell you at check out if it is a different date.

That dragon is EPIC! Where did you get the .stl from?

https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-red......

He has multiple poses and multiple colors. But super easy to support

Wow this is awesome!

Thank you!

Thanks man

Do you have a picture of how you supported the head and body?

I'll get some photos of that when I get home from work

Alexander Bayerdorffer thanks. Your print is awesome, so hope to improve by watching your supports ?

It's honestly the easiest thing I have ever supported because it's so big.

nice, Paint it!

Is the screen live after this?)

Alexander Bayerdorffer true. But especially the head has a lot og the overhangs that I am normally struggling with, without creating too many supports and thereby destroying details

Yes luckily though I have ordered another so I don't have to wait when it dies. Although I have done like idk couple hundred hours before this one

I printed it nose up vertical of the plate. That way the teeth form 45 degreee angles and I don't have to support those fuckers. Barely any over hangs or loss of detail from supports if you make them like that youtube guys videos

Mini Monster Mayhem on Patreon is the guy that made the stl and he includes pre-supported files in his patreon since he test prints on a small resin printer himself.

Yeah I got this off my minifactory but yeah go support if you don't wanna support him the durgon

Wow just wow

Thank you!

Awesome. What did you use for the seam lines?

Resin

Alexander Bayerdorffer and cured it with uv?

Use a paint brush. brush it on hold away from the light. hold them together hit the switch and move it in front of the uv light to cure it

Alexander Bayerdorffer thanks i ll give it a go

He has more than one pose and more than one color dragon so choose that first :p

Outstanding model. PM sent.

How much resin did you go through with that?

uhmmm. Not really sure? I can give you an estimate later

Alexander Bayerdorffer no problem. Take your time. I was just curious if it took more than a half liter bottle lol

Oh for sure lol

i figured lol
You’ll have to get updates when you get it painted

It's a gift for my DM for his bday so he will be painting it. Probably gonna print another for myself though lol

Alexander Bayerdorffer well, you have the sliced files so I don’t see why not. That’s definitely a long project though. So far my biggest project is dice towers/storage

Wow epic!

hardly, that dragon is epic.

Well thank you sir but I'm just a printer no sculpter

same boat man.. and I think we’re gonna need a bigger boat

I'm definitely interested in final build costs too. I have to assume at 10 builds this is 0.5 - 1 liters of resin no?

Awesome, nice work

Magnificent!

That looks great! How did you run at 0.02mm?

How did I run at .02???

This is great! Any tips on fitting? I can't print multi-parts because whenever I do, parts don't fit

I orient them in chitbox on my own rotating flipping etc and fit as much as I can. did both arms then both legs. body alone. neck pieces and tailpiece.rest of tail and rock. two wing pieces. I did have to slice the two biggest wing pieces tip off to fit it and print it seperate

Can i give you some cutting advice?

I didn't cut anything but the very tip of the wing. which I did in 3d builder. It's rather intuitive

Oh! I thought you made the mode using a 3d software

Is it the 100% size from the MMM OR did u scale it up

I got it off my mini factory and printed it 100% size

Alexander Bayerdorffer im printing it right now just printed the torso!!!!! 9 more build plates to go!!!!!

Yeah man did you do .02?

Alexander Bayerdorffer nooo. 04 is enough for me !!! Hahah I'm not brave like u hahaha

Yeah like I said. 200 hours of printing not counting assembly. be warned there will be gaps to the assembly and where the wings set in will need some dremeling or sanding. He didn't do a perfect job there. but once you do that use resin to be your glue

Nice!

Alexander Bayerdorffer I mean after printing, the parts of my print's doesn't fit together

Oh for this model they did not fit well together 100% because the cutting job was not the greatest. I used resin between parts and cured them and then sanded and smoothed the joints

Ah I see ? I thought I was only one having this issue. Thanks for the tip ?

Nice badge

Jerome Dupont IV Thank you very much ?

Yes.

Yeah, a lot of people use them.

Ok cool. One less thing I need to buy! Thanks. I figured it was a yes. Uv light is uv light ?‍♀️

Make sure the UV lamp supports the wavelength of your resin. Typically 405nm.

The sun is free

Joey Burgett ok will double check. Thanks!

Jason Willis except when it's not out! ? but also i already own this lamp from years ago so i'm not buying it new now. I have it on hand just making sure it'll work for this new purpose since it's not getting used to do my nails anymore.

Arianne Aucoin I've just seen a lot of peoplebuy expensive stuff for this. These sun is out everyday, even if there's clouds the UV will penetrate through. It doesn't have to be a sunny day or those UV lights you own wouldn't work either. Good luck printing and curing

Also lamps are a good investment if you have wild life that need some blue to give to their becky

(Australian bower birds and anycubic green resin are a match made in heaven apparently)

just make sure it matches the wavelength for your resin

Jason Willis ah gotcha. No I'm not looking to buy one. I was actually about to toss the old lamp but we recently got the printer and it occured to me I could maybe give that old thing a new purpose.
When curing in sunlight does humidity mess with it at all? Just wondering if that has any effect on the print.
I have a lot to learn

Arianne Aucoin I live in the tropics with often high humidity and I haven't noticed any issues with my curing personally.

Arianne Aucoin RH (relative humidity) is the same inside your house as outside. If you don't have an issue while printing you shouldn't have one while curing. The only thing I've noticed is larger prints with more resin should be cured in shade not direct sunlight. The sun may warp the print because of the exothermic reaction

Awesome thanks guys!

Jason Willis oooh I didn't know that! I will have to cure more in the shade, this might explain some things with my previous prints.

i have one. works great for my my model rr items.

It's my backup curing station when it's raining, but I find the sunlight does a better job.

Rhiannon Beorn Van D just for fun I put about an ounce in a used water bottle and set it in the sun. It seriously deformed the bottle as well as smoked like a stoner on 420

Jason Willis oh shit ?

Sun also takes 15 hrs. I havent seen the sun in like 18 years if I set my prints out there I might die as well

Ryan Berkebile sure sure

There is no risk to test, but normally it should work perfectly

I purchased a nail salon UV lamp for such purposes, so yes.

This actually started life as one

Adding to the "yes" responses. Apart from the sun, that's what I used before I built my "bucket."

You're sure that's not UVC? Check the lamps. That blue hue is typical of UVC and is very harmful to your eyes and skin. Much more than UV-A or B which are typically what are used to cure resins.

Jacob Bender It’s UV-A

Special thanks to ModBot on YouTube for this easy to build design in a stainless steel paint bucket. No soldering involved!

it works great. You could do without. But it's pretty well made.

I love mine. I did the homemade box and ultrasonic combo for a while, but this is a much more elegant solution.

Stan Westmoreland how long does it take to full cure? Is it powerful?

Snorri Grissomson how long does it take to full cure? Is it powerful?

It depends on your model there are 3 timer settings. the longest is something like 6 minutes I think. I seems enough for most models.

I'm using one right now. Love it. Washes great. I run wash 2 minutes,scrub with soft toothbrush,was another 2 minutes,then cure depends on color of resin. Transparent only needs 2 minutes,black and grey 6 minutes

Ricky Wong I usually run one 6 minute cycle and it's done.

I always find my resin still has a tacky feel after curing for short times typically let's say with elegoo white abs like I find I need to leave it in my diy chamber for 1 hour or in sunlight (uk standard) for about an hour. So you guys are saying 6 minute cycle makes it feel hard to the touch?

(Washing in IPA 99% ultrasonic cleaner)

youtube.com/watch?v=8m-V51MYjNA&t

Hello guys,what else you use to clean models after print.I cant find isopropyl alcohol that days aw you know...

i just use hot water and dishwash soap, and clean better than ipa

Ricardo Ladeira ohhh,thats all?i got my printer a week now and i am searching ipa but nowhere to find 1litre.Thanks bro so much

I bought the wash station. I think the wash and cure station is worth the cost. When a print finishes the entire build plate goes in the wash station, no mess, no toothbrush, no resin on your hands. Then after the wash I drain the IPA, air dry and remove supports. Then on the plate for curing. There is no fuss, no mess, it is exceptionally convenient.

Apostolis Drakopoulos in the beginning because i dont know how it works i use ipa, but now, this clean even better for me

Use primer first and sand down the nubs

? As above

Or when added support try of setting them a little

I don't need to use primer, because of the paint. But I'll do that

You always need to use primer

My paint is not acrylic. I was suggested by the seller (who is an airbrushing pro) that I shouldn't use any primer, because this paint is not acrylic. I need to paint a homogenous first layer, which we could call primer.

I use extremely light supports.

unfortunately a sharp scalpel, sanding stick and a whole lot of time is the only way.

Szabolcs Matefy Obviously it's not necessary but primer will definitely help smooth out imperfections like any visible layers. If you're not using acrylics I'd recommend a lacquer primer, mr hobby surfacer for example.

After cleaning the liquid resin off with IPA or some other cleaner, soak the model with supports attached in water as hot as your hands can tolerate after two minutes you can pull the supports off leaving very few knobs and little or no damage to the model

wouldn't it bend the model itself?

Szabolcs Matefy It hasn’t bent any of mine. You just have to be careful if your model has any parts that are as thin as the supports. Because you can tear them if you aren’t careful. In short the heat does not deform the model, it lowers the rigidity and makes it soft. When it cools it returns to its original rigidly. I probably wouldn’t try it with gears that have to mesh, but for art pieces it’s great!