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Let us know how that goes! ? ❓

Following ?

I’m using fabuloso in place of IPA getting ok results not great but not bad

Anycubic recommends ethanol to clean their resins. Denatured alcohol is mostly ethanol with some methanol added. Some denatured has acetone and few other things in small amounts.

Try windshield washing fluid.

I’ve found that a soak in hot water after your ipa wash and rinse softens the supports an they just come right off.

gonna try that

Jan Chessy Cesak it can make your prints a little cloudy but I prime all mine. ?

John Simpson yop, same here

John Simpson I don’t actually have IPA at present so just been using hot soapy water, it does soften but still leaves hard bits right on the object itself. I’m sure I’ll find other ways, all trial and error.

John Simpson that it does, but not a problem for a prototype.

Based on the photos it looks like u could just print it flat without supports.

Revin Leong might try without supports, do you mean flat vertically or horizontally?

Daniel Weatherhead you could try both ways. Do check with the slicers auto supports to verify if u really need supports.

John Simpson Is there a way to reduce or eliminate the cloudiness? Just printed something in clear resin overnight; I was hoping the hot water trick would let me get the supports off cleanly, but if it's going to impact the clarity, maybe I'd better look for a different method.

Jeff Lee I’m not sure to be honest, I’m still very much a newbie myself.

There are side cutting, flush nippers used strictly for plastic models that work well

The clear-ness you are seeing is the uncured resin filling in the tiny layer lines that refract light. You can get some of that back by clear coating your clear prints. It would even better if they're flat and you can sand then clear coat

Your orientation is too horizontal and got stuck to the FEP. I would try no more than 30° off of normal (90°)

A wide flat part like that has too much surface area and when the supports thin out they run risk of pulling off the plate

auto supports are worthless, never trust em

I have a plastic box any resin contaminated stuff goes into. When it's about halfway full, and it's sunny, it gets set outside. Then I mix it up a bit so the sun hits everything for a while. Then I just toss it in the normal trash.

Fred Bey that’s a good idea, think I’ll try that.

I take everything to the hazmat disposal site once a year or so

That’s great to bring up the tissues. Been wondering what everyone does with theres ?‍♂️

Lots of sun light, turning it every now and then like tilling a field crop. Once it's all set I bag it and put it in the bin

I set it under my cure light for a day and throw it away.

Burn them!

The stuff is harmless when cured. Just set your tissues and the like out in the sun, let it cure, then toss in trash.

What did you clean the vat with now we can’t get IPA?

Most of the resin was poured out so just used a tissue to wipe and warm soapy (fairy liquid) water again with a tissue to wipe clean now left to dry.

Thank God I had already bought about 10 large bottles beck when I first got my printer. Still have 5 left

Level it properly. + read the FAQ.

what are you printing

Rok Petrič the lattice test print.

I sanded my build plate a bit with high grit paper like 1000 or so, but really it came down to bottom exposure time and ensuring it was properly zero'd.

95% of the time its a leveling issue.

I have a somewhat unorthodox way of leveling, loosen the build plate, remove the vat, home, down 5 x 1mm, tighten, up .1mm x 5, z=0, get it back up and put the vat back. (Dont forget to tighten it.)

never over fill either, if that ball joint gets resin in it, it will never level properly and will require a good cleaning

Had perfect prints since day one. Reason? I spent a LOT of time getting it leveled.

is anything on fep?

Update your firmware if you haven't, make sure your plate is clean and dry before every print, relevel and then double check you tightened the plate fully after leveling. That solved all of my problems

I had the same issue and no amount of releveling worked. So I increased the base exposure time and bam, perfect prints.

Level the bed

Not even a hint of it taking to the plate

In this case, it's most likely your leveling, might be too high. Try this method
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K4G6ExEtk70

Make sure you clean your vat before trying again.

The fest print has the setting perfect for printing, if it failed the bed probably isn’t level

Michael Van Fossen I’ve seen people with slightly warped plates, so much so you couldn’t see it with your eyes alone

Paul Dodd I agree with you. I took mine and laid down the sandpaper on a known flat and level surface and sanded mine from there to what I think is a good surface.

Just a note, how far down you need to go for z=0 depends on the machine. Small variation in where the home sensor is affects it. I’ve written down where it is on my machines, and they’re all different

Your first layers need a longer exposure time. I usually run 8 layers at 80 seconds exposure for the first layers. That foundation is crucial

as others have mentioned, when you leveled, your z=0 was too high up.
It is unfortunate that Anycubic doesn’t set it at the factory like epax does

It was an absolute disaster a lot of resin has stuck to the build plate, had to use a metal screwdriver to get that of, so it’s very scratched now, the plastic you get was rubbish and the filter for the unused resin just leaked out all over the workshop, not exactly an enjoyable experience so far.

Daniel Prows Gotcha, makes sense.

Scratches are fine, but the plastic spatula should definitely be replaced with a plastic razor or metal spatula. The leaking in the filters is usually from over filling them or keeping them too close to the bottle

Chris Rees I kind of used it like a funnel so sort of held it too close I think. Won’t do that again.

That was the problem I had when I started, too. I think the mesh sits just above the top of the bottle and causes all sorts of problems

Terrible advice. Your FEP is 0.15mm thick so if you go up 0.5mm, you'll end up 0.35mm too high.

Bob Deblier Works for me flawlessly.

I followed the instructions on the bottle. It told me what to set the base exposed to

I went with the spreadsheet exposure times and haven’t had a failed print yet. I know my print is going to succeed because I hear that first pop when the first layer is done curing.

Home position is set by a small clip on the back. Not everyone's home will be in the same spot. What works for YOUR machine isn't universal.

Use a hairdryer for 30 second on the plate it will warm it

Most the time hairdryer fix it or re calibrate your plate sometime while removing print we change the position of the plate

what is your exsposure for the first few layers I always set mine to 50s have never has a issue

Kirk Sturgulewski I’ve upped the bottom layer to 80 seconds, hoping that makes a difference.

When I was having repeated failures, it turned out to be a spacing issue with my bed.

Use the Flint Reed method, and raise by 0.1mm, thats what fixed it for me.

As in, Home it with the vat in, go down until it gets hard to twist, tighten the bed, then move it up 0.1mm and set that as 0.

UV light source, IPA or some other cleaner, and a decent way of getting prints off the plate, Nitrile gloves and a mask

This above! As well as a good source of fume extraction. I'd suggest an inline fan and a carbon filter :) your body will Defo thank you later

Thanks very much.

Fizzy FizzleMack it will be in a workshop which is pretty much a garage so is pretty cold or would that not be enough of an extractor?

I'm in the UK and went for these bits.

Plenty of kitchen roll, long bladed craft knife, modelling files, sandpaper, filler, primer, paints and bucket loads of patience.

I wouldn't risk it bud. First try a print in the garage. Post printing if you can smell the resin. Then I'd suggest the above what I've mentioned pal. Rather be safe than sorry dude ??

I picked up the 24w (dual) uv led strips to cure stuff, then attached them around a cooking pot from wilko.

Works a treat

Stuart Johnson any chance you can link the UV led strip?

Fizzy FizzleMack you in the uk?

LightingWill 24 Watts UV Black... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07X5ZPFZ5......

I was dubious it would do the job, until I fired them up and it worked a treat :)

Stuart Johnson yep

Stuart Johnson sorry you were asking fizzy. ?

Aye ;)

Daniel Weatherhead I've got mine in me room, using the Anycubic Basic Grey, without all that gubbins and I've not noted it to be particularly smelly or noxious but I AM a smoker so that may be a factor.

I found the nastiest bit of it is the cleaning a fter the print. I'm using Meth's for the Basic Clean followed by the IPA and that lot stinks to high heaven.

Also, if your garage is too cold the Resin may not be as 'responsive' or as 'fluid' as is required. (Couldn't think of better words) Might be worth investing in a heater for that area.

Neal Conway Thanks a lot. Very useful.

The most basic thing you'll need is isopropyl alcohol or something to clean your prints off when they're done. As far as not enough Sunshine it doesn't really take very much. I set my prints on the windowsill and even on a cloudy day they still cure. T hat will at least get you started printing. Eventually you'll probably want to get more rubber gloves and paint filters. But basically with just some alcohol to clean your prints off when you're done you can get started printing. UV curing stations, fume extraction and all of that stuff are kind of optional and whatever you prefer on that. I live in a tiny home so the best spot for my printer was behind the toilet on a Shelf. I don't hardly notice any smell from it at all unless I'm sitting right there next to it watching it.

Haha not a problem Dan and yes I and from the UK Stuart. Cheers for the link dude ??