Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

http://etsy.com/shop/AkumaMods . In USA

Full disclosure: I know the guy

All of my recent amazon shipments have shown 2-3 weeks, but have all arrived in the normal 2 days.

Buy direct from Monocure. Use MONOPHOTON for 10% off order, or I believe you can get a first order 25% discount when you create an account on their website.

Or check the group's resin resellers spreadsheet
https://docs.google.com/....../1HZ4hFN9vfVp....../edit......

If it’s sold or shipped by Amazon, stuff still showing up in a couple days, earlier than the quoted date for me.

are you us based or europe. I ordered and got resin in the UK this week, only took the usual delivery time

My only thought is that it's hollow, but i didn't add drain holes?

model will be full of resin. and not enough supports to hold the model steady whilst the model is full of resin :) add vent holes close to the build plate. ie they need to print first. add more supports or use larger supports

Mark Wardle wierd that its a dead straight line though

suction can do things like that :)

Your liquid surface is a straight line. Thus the crease is too.

Question: I usually pepper the flat underside of hollow bases with holes. Is there such a thing as 'too many holes' as long as the structural integrity is intact?

Folding

epax if you don't want to pay the anycubic pricing. No adapter needed

The Anycubic one is the safest bet. It works fine. The only disadvantage is that they don’t ship tape with it. Elegoo does.

Any slim tape will do though.

Kevin Boogaard I'd say the biggest disadvantage with the anycubic one is that it costs twice as much as the elegoo screen.

Absolutely. Less features for twice the price.

But disregarding that its the tape that gets me ?

Thanks for that video dude!

Set it on top of an led strip recessed into a base block

I use elegoo grey for everything. Settings: 8 base layers with 60 second exposure; 9 second normal exposure; 0.4 layer height. Printers vary, so you may need to do some additional tweaking depending on how your prints come out; feel free to post pictures and people can help you determine if you need more/less exposure, layer height adjustment, etc.

I've been printing for a while and my prints recently have been coming out poor. Seeing if tweaking my settings will help.

I use 3 base layers at 60 seconds with 8 second layers after that. .05 mm layer heights

Unfortunately there isn't a "hack" to make prints go faster. I would say 8s is the minimum before prints start failing

Orientation can speed it up. Figure out your supports for laying the parts or print more vertical to reduce time. The taller it is the longer it takes to print. You can also shave a bit off time by increasing lift and/or lower speeds of your plate. At the cost of detail quality you can also increase your layer height slightly but sometimes layer height vs layer exposure time doesnt save much time.

Cool print. What model is that ?

Ciprian Grecea https://www.myminifactory.com/....../3d-print-delani......

Ciprian Grecea

Jon Hammersley That looks awesome

Not!

Well, if somebody here wants to buy a slightly banged up but functional Moai 130, I'm going to have to sell mine... Because my Phrozen Transform just arrived, and I really don't have room for two goddamn enormous resin printers in my office. ?

Im a Phrozen Reseller based in Texas. I did not realize that the Transform's would be arriving this soon. Good for you. My dealer demo transform has not even arrived yet.

I pre-ordered mine back in December from Ultimate 3D Printing Store. At the time, they said estimated delivery was February-March. Since I hadn't heard anything (and their website now says June-July) I kinda figured it was delayed indefinitely because of COVID-19, but then FedEx just showed up out of the blue this past Wednesday with a big-ass box.

I have to admit, I wasn't quite prepared for what a beast it is. I did check the dimensions before I bought it, and it technically *does* fit inside the externally ventilated metal cabinet I keep the Photon in, but I forgot to allow for the doors being L-Shaped, which means it really requires over twice the horizontal footprint if you want to be able to open it up far enough to remove the FEP vat and build plate without having to tilt them sideways.

Also, for some deeply stupid reason, they put the USB port on the bottom back of the machine. Why the hell would anyone do that for something the size of a mini-fridge? I know you can use it with wi-fi, but our wi-fi is always crapping out on me, so for now, it's sitting on top of the cabinet where my FDM printer used to go, until I can figure out an alternative ventilation strategy and/or determine whether it's possible to use with a USB extension cable so I at least don't have to give the thing a massive bear hug reach-around every time I want to plug in a flash drive.

Thats fantastic!! Except the part about the USB. I'm sure you will work around that. I'll send you a friend request so we can keep in touch. Thanks for the updates

I’ve had my new one a week and already plotting how to get a second new one.

I must be part hobbit ??‍♂️

Jeff Miller Glad to see the Transform is showing up. Earlier than expected

I'm eyeing my third now. Just started this journey in November.

I’ve just took in my 4th lol.
2 fdm and 2 resin

I’ve got 2 resin and 2 fdm. Zortrax, tiertime, photon...

I have 5.. I did sell 1 though. My old robo 3d r1

Have 4 resin printers. Looking forward to buy more. Lol

oh printed that with Prusa. maybe I should get one of those.

I carry Phrozen and Zortrax if interested. PM me

I've just put my printing on hold, as my local hospital needed my masks, gloves, and alcohol more than I did.

That's a good call, I may finally get my Ender-3 set up and start working on terrain until the gloves and alcohol aren't so scarce

Jarin Udom may as well, stay safe Jarin.

The cleaning solutions we use for our prints are the best desinfectants there are!

Guess I’ve never worried about it to begin with...

ditto

I think it puts into perspective why we take precautions in the first place

To save them, go to Home Depot get the "rubberized" Nitrile gloves. They are like basically for toilet washing. One pair of those lasts ALOT longer than the kinds that doctors use.

I was never 'worried', just took sensible precautions as suggested by the manufacturer (gloves and good ventilation). No change now.

I wish Covid19 burnt half as much as resin did. I got a tiny bit on my face again and remembered how irritating it is again.

These are what I use and they've been working just fine :)

I've put my printer on my kitchen counter. Used to be at the workshop, but I'm not allowed there for a while. ? Yolo

From what I understand cured resin is mostly safe to handle in non food related activities.

Fully cured resin should not irritate skin.

Jonathan .

Thanks

Thats what i'm thinking

Are you putting them on the lathe and putting a finish on them? That would put a barrier between the skin. A lot of exotic African & South American woods that I've made pens from irritate skin as well.

No lathe. The pen bodies would be purely 3D printed. Thanks for the note though

Resin out preforms FDM in all categories except price.

Certain items can be printed faster by FDM machines if layer thickness is not critical.

Both technologies have strengths and weaknesses. I use both all the time. FDM is generally much better for bigger stuff than resin. Case in point, you can use FDM to print something as big as a car. I can't imagine that being realistic with resin, even if resin was free and you could get it in 50 gallon drums, lol

Jeffrey Opel LIKE LAST TIME.... this is a false statement. It is mechanically impossible.
Have you ever been a used car salesmen?

Micah Vestal like I said it’s not cheaper. But it’s 10x faster, stronger and detail isn’t even comparable.

They make huge resin printers. I saw one make a boat haul. That said the machine was $20M.

Not cheaper, but better.

Trying to teach old men new tricks... impossible.

Jordan Baldrige I’m so sick of you calling me names

Jeffrey Opel I’m not calling you names. What name did I say?

Jordan Baldrige You flat out called me a liar the last time. A Used Car salesman and old man this time. Why do you think you can get away with this?

Jeffrey Opel last time sure. This time no. I’m old too, so that doesn’t count, plus it was a joke. The other thing was a question.

Lighten up a little. The world is not out to get you.

I dont know why you think you can get away with it

Jeffrey Opel with what? 1 old man calling another old man old?
Is that what your bent up about?

Jordan Baldrige I have seen a BAAM in person. I have never heard of a resin printer that big. It doesn't seem worthwhile to make a resin printer that big. My point is that it's not better at that scale, regardless of price. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should, lol.

Jeffrey Opel resin prints way faster, if your printing minis u can print 10 vs 1 on fdm, if you are printing buildings, resin is still faster as it does the whole layer at the same time. I started with resin and just got an fdm for terrain stuff, resin is so much better

Personal use, or selling? If the latter, you might want to be a bit more cautious, 'just in case'.

Ask oneself is it safe to put in your mouth like say Dental applications or surgical apperatus & you may find the answer.

One small advantage of FDM over standard resin I've observed is distortion - FDM doesn't warp as readily as resin does while curing so if you need a high degree of accuracy of overall shape FDM may be best.

Saying that I expect there are resins out there that are designed to overcome this issue.

Still, not going back to FDM - resin is amazing.

Huge disagree and I've used both for many many years and worked in the sla field

There are plenty of resins you could use if you're really concerned about it. This is just an example, but pro black 10 resin from figure 4 is Biocompatible capable per ISO10993-5 and ISO10993-10, which means this:

ISO 10993-10:2013 Biological evaluat ion of medical devices Part 10: Tests for irritation and skin sensitization

ISO 10993-5:2009 Biological evaluation of medical devices Part 5: Tests for in vitro cytotoxicity.

You wouldn't really need to go to these lengths though as people have said prior to this comment, fully cured resin should not irritate the skin. But this kind of resin would be safe if you're one of those people who bites things haha.

jjust make sure to leave it in the sun for a few days

Mostly give aways or promotional items.

Then no

Definetly will fully cure it. Thanks

basically leave it out until it doesn't smell funny

Good information. BTW, what is Figure 4?

조일호 Yea, theres that too.

Jeffrey Opel figure 4 is a resin printer :)

Oh, the 3D Systems one

Jeffrey Opel Resins become chemicaly inert once polymerised. Like the look of your pens by the way out of interest I turn pens from wood on my lathes occasionally ?

Thanks for the note. Those are 3D printed using a hemp based filament

Show me a resin comparable to ULTEM or PEEK

Jeffrey Opel people like to put that in their mouths, (it’s a joke) there are no hemp based resins that I have ever heard of.

Dennis Walter Jr. I’m not looking for a hemp based resin. Only stating that the pens shown in the post came from a hemp based filament

I've been wearing a printed resin ring as my wedding ring for the past 4 months. No issues.

Chris Svo it does after prolonged exposure. I printed a hollow 16mm ear tunnel last year, after three days it caused blistering and swelling inside my ear and I had to cut the earring out.

I also made a fidget ring for someone who experienced similar on their finger after a few days.
You won't have any nasty reaction to chemicals found in PETG/PLA/TPU from FDM, but you likely will with resin.

Varnish/seal it. I do that with my stuff.

Lance Draper good to know, thanks.

thats a good idea.

Anycubic grey resin, printed on a Photon. Cheaper than gold, and if I want a different design, no problem! The first one I made broke during our honeymoon. This ones been solid for 4 months now

Looks good, thanks for sharing

Depending on what support software you use, you can decrease the head diameter / penetration depth. Also soaking in warm/hot water for a minute helps.

Whit 0.02 is better? High resolution of printer?

With the same exposure time? Then you were probably underexposing at 0.05mm and are now overexposing at 0.02mm.