Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團

dead pixels usually

If it's consistent, there may be an island.
Or try repositioning it on the plate and reslice to see if it's your LCD.

I'd say island of some kind as well.

Dead pixels on LCD screen

Holes in the same place on different prints are, no doubt, bad pixels on the LCD. Test the screen.

Andrew Gott how do we test screen?

start with basic trouble shooting. remove and clean your vat, make sure no dried resin is stuck to the fep. next examine the screen physically for dried resin. last step would be to go into the tools option on the printer and select uv detection. look for those holes or any anomalies. you can also run the print with out a vat and plate to see if the holes show up.

good luck

Nathan Kopp

Nathan Kopp

Nathan Kopp

Nathan Kopp does this looks like a bad lcd?

Kathy Ogilby Langdon does not look normal. anycubic screens are a consumable so you can do two things. replace it or: ive heard sometimes the cable seating comes loose and needs to be pushed back in.

should be a nice bright square

I use methylated spirits/denatured alcohol for my cleaning purposes and it works fine, try to find one that is as much as 95% ethanol, usually labeled as camping stove fuel or as a cleaning agent in the paint supplies

Sweet! Thanks!

My cleaning process is a little convoluted but it works great also, I have a 1 gallon plastic paint pail full of denatured with a removable lid, and a spray bottle filled with my denatured, I pre rinse over the pail with the spray, soak in the pail, proceed to spray rinse a second time, and then hand dry.

Nice!

Never tried meth, prefer heroin.

A bit of something I picked up on accident, a paper towel sheet sitting in your alcohol vat will appear to slowly accumulate dissolved resin in its fibers as a passive filter of sorts, to help keep your cleaning process consistent between batches

Miles Redman that's a top tip!

using deicer my self right now lol

Sad to say...not really an option afaik

That's what I figured. At 61% now and crossing my fingers.

Scott Mitchell look into apc battery backups. If you get a big one...could print for a while. Little one will protect you from power blips

Just as a solution for down the road

question for the hive mind, I print only small, very detailed models, I've been always using the ANYCUBIC Clear Green... but I've been very busy for a while now and I'm not been following the most recent developments... I was wondering if there is anyt hing better that appeared on the market in the last six months or so?
I'm really only interested in quality, high definition, low shrinkage, low viscosity, etc. price is not really an issue as I use really small amounts anyway...

We have used anycubic clear green, eco resin and now elegoo grey. The elegoo grey is my favorite so far. The detail is spectacular. Try it.

Hi Brandy Wickersham Swigart , thank you, will do!

Try ours https://ameralabs.com/shop/amd-3-led-sample/

"Best" isn't quite the term I would use as different resins are used for different projects. Myself, I print tabletop miniatures, and elegoo abs-like is fantastic. Has just enough flex for small, thin areas to not snap off.

I've used AnyCubic green and the Elegoo Water Washable in Ceramic Grey. The Elegoo water washable is my favorite so far. Attached a print from earlier today.

Actually want to try one of those Amera Labs resins, i hear they're super good for details, would love opinions if anyone has tried them.

This resin is awesome for minis, stronger than Anycubic resin with added flex resin

Andrius AmeraLabs oh cool, i actually want to give your grey a shot.

Any recommended settings for Photon S or will i get by just following the table on your website?

Thank you Andrius AmeraLabs looks amazing, will check that out!

siraya blu

Depends what you print

Teying egloo grey. Have bot had luck with translucent green. Only get two things to print out having 6 on build plate.

Lorenz Nijs start with 4.5s for 50 microns. And then see what you get. You may be able to lower exposure to ~4s ?

Andrius AmeraLabs sweet, thanks. Will be ordering a sample soon!

Ask a dozen 3d printers and get a dozen different answers. Personally, I've tried a number of different ones, but my go-to resin is Siraya Fast ABS-like. Good quality, good detail, and, at $34.99 a liter from Amazon, a decent price.

The one you can get your hands on!! LOL ? ?

I use Wanhao for cheap resin. Monocure for quality and dragon Resin for quality and color options.
https://3dprinteruniverse.com/collections/resins

hm iam the only who use phrozen resin? :)

Expensive

No, I use TR250 from them, HT.

Andrius AmeraLabs I'll check it out when I run out of resin!

Strong, cheap, no smell, good detail, no fail prints at all

my favorite resin is the search bar in this forum and in google.

This.

All depends on your needs for the part

and here we go again....

Depends what you want to print.....

it's incredible how many people do not even bother to read a question but feel entitled to write a smart ass answer, regardless how stupid that may make them appear...

What are your settings for these. They look great.

Thanks.I think I can go to 8 with this resin. I'm still fiddling with the best exposure for the minis.

When resin cures it heats up, it’s a chemical reaction

Jacob John Russell lol. I found this out after getting some on a glove, put it under my uv light and was quickly surprised.

Yeah not nice lol, I used to work in panel shops and some of the fillers we used on boats got hot enough to melt buckets

Not all chemical reactions make heat. Curing resin does because the reaction is exothermic.

Dan Andersson was more of an ‘in general’ reply to the OP. I use thousands of different chemicals, most of the more basic ones are simple catalysing agents for marine and concrete repair. There is some very nasty stuff out there that are exothermic that people really don’t give the safety respect they deserve

like cold packs...

Isn't pretty much everything a chemical reaction? Like, my body turns food and drink into something totally different. That generates a little bit of heat, and some... other stuff....

Jacob John Russell You can be an expert, I do not doubt that. The sentence you wrote can be interpreted that all chemical reactions create heat.

Yeah, it’s seconds.

You can use the resin like glue with hand held blacklight

Yeah...unfortunately my first thought is the motherboard

Scott Pavlich I have a spare one , so I’ll try that.

Need more supports

More support. Or thicker support.

Looks like your screen needs replacing. The screen is a consumerable ?

damn, that fast? I've done 2.5l resin so far.

Yep that's a bad screen.

Check if you got cured resin on or under the screen

Stefan Giudici ok, I will disassembly the printer and check. It's gonna by my first time.

Radovan Slavkovsky you don't need to disassemble anything, just take the vat out and look at the screen. Either you have dead pixels or you have resin on the screen

Stefan Giudici oh, this way, already did. Nothing in there.

Radovan Slavkovsky then yeah your screen is shot

Well, if this will happen to me I'm going to keep printing around that hole ? use every second of that screen life ?

Luca Cavallari i would to, atleast while waiting for the replacement ? ?

You can totally put in a warranty claim?