ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » Kisslicer

Hey there :)The carriages do the sqme thing on my printer. When they hit the endstops i always worry if it smashes them :D never thought about asking that.About the fans: Did you load the kisslicer settings from the support webpage? It should allow coo ling above 3mm height. It can be changed in kisslicer. If you found and tested it, check the cables in The cable collector. In mine the Z-endstop in The effector got disconnected :DAnd about slicing Software: Try some until you find yours. At The Moment i'm happy with cura, slic3r gives a bit more Options but has more complexity to it.I mostly print with sd because then I can turn my pc off ? Best wishes

hi,new atomer. it's normal,but u can try slow down when it auto-leveling. the first layer will be better.
just take look the photo.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=751011125024969&set=pcb.1639232102981745&type=3&relevant_count=3

thanks a lot, how to slow down when autolevelling ? by adjusting the fr percentage with the knob on the printer?

Yep, that will work. Sounds awkward for the First Moment, sound of The stepper motors i mean. But sadly it wont change much. It will still be going with full Force to hit the endstop. Just with less speed

yep!!! u right.
u need slow down it before it touch first point on plate.
then the sound will be lower and the first layer should be smooth.

mmmm.... maybe u should change the acceleration in the marlin. X,Y,E 9000->500 it should change a lot.

i remember you can change acceleration on LCD.
control > motion > acceleration ?

I was wondering why they put a Firmware up where this is not changed from the beginning? :o

Who knows

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9Al873W3LY

I hoped somebody hear would have known :D

ah...of course u can do that. u just need change all firmware for auto-level. but not so much info for that.
for official version u only have two choice to slow down that. that's all i known.

Why does the printer in this video do multiple taps at each location? My printer does only 1.

Maybe because it's atom 1.0? Was even wonderig because mine starts on C / Z tower, in the back of the printer while this one starts on the A tower, the left one. But this could only be a mounting thing with the Display :)

It's a special branch based on
https://groups.google.com/forum/......
IT's trying to probe the same point till it's repeatable result.

There are also another change to average probe result
"Changed autoprobe behavior to average instead of exact match "
http://www.simplyalt.com/atom/viewthread.php?tid=1001......

Yes, It's the day I finish the assembly of the ATOM1.0
I wired the x,y,z motor in the wrong order. So, it's moving order is reversed between x & y tower
original video is this one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msVoXpr2WII

That's an interesting set of modifications - but an old version from back in 2014. Is there a current version that includes those same mods?

thanks for the answers, i'm trying new settings and making tests.... in fact the printer is ok, but there is a problem when it start printing from the back side (near the Z axis ) : the head keeps scratching a bit the bed no matter what i do with Z offset tweaking, the min Z offset is good when i put a sheet of paper under the head when it's making the process, but i see that when it start printing near the perimeter near Z axis , the head touch the plate... like if the Y arm was too short and the head not exactly horizontal, so it touch the bed.... Any ideas ? i re tight the belts, redone Z offset etc ... nothing change ....

看起來不是移位是斷料
可以試看看把destring速度100降到80

天氣冷，不用把風扇開那麼大，關到剩30~20看看。

降到80下次試試看，另外我室溫有空調都是26-27這樣風扇也要關到30-20嗎？

我是開50
有跨橋才開到100
空調風口要注意別吹到噴頭

所以是建議速度80測吹50這樣子嗎？

斷料有很多原因
目前提供的是其中一個狀況方法
如果失敗就再換其他方法
你可以多嘗試看看

Aniq Mahbullah

強大!!!

我脖子那邊好像也有些小針孔...那時沒注意看,不知道怎麼來的.

參數貼一下

形容的好，牛牛吸毒

要是180~190度仍可出料順暢的話，試試。

上次有遇過，你是不是有開啟暫停那個外掛參數

cura是這樣沒錯

如果是的話要取消

今天試著用0.05mm印雷射配件 G29 設+0.4 刮傷底板(心好痛) 設+0.45固定到一個位子會有喀拉喀拉的刮聲 雖然沒有+0.4刺耳的吱吱聲 還是會擔心有沒有設錯

覺得你的出料有狀況，要看參數才知道

目前是以KISSlicer作練習 至於cura有空再調看看

你要選這個開啟模型跟顯示路徑呀
是說球形關節這樣印容易斷喔
最好倒著印

我剛剛也在研究這個問題, Cura的路徑有些模型好像會印得比較好

同樣的速度 KISSLICER支架支撐完勝 他只可惜就是有那條分層線

換用 Repetier-Hos t裡的 Cura 切片,先印內圈再印外圈,就不會有這個起始點的問題.

所以長青筋的是KISSLICER XD?!

是的

Kisslicer還會容易冒青春痘

因為一個由內住外，另一個由外往內

有Kiss,血壓高

你好，我是這個活動的工作人員
我們正在努力徵求不同的小豬作品
如果你不介意的話，希望你能來報名參賽喔
http://iing.tw/3d

GCODE裡面就有存每個參數了
你再參考裡面數值填回，為何會不見，你目錄檔案有刪除是嗎?

我也是第一次遇到.原本上一個切完沒問題，關掉程式後再開，圓盤變預設方盤，不以為意就切下去並丟到機器去印結果暴走...所幸立即關電...

「列印時都會停頓一下,而且在停頓點會有伴隨一聲"嗶"」，這是回抽的速度放太慢了，慢得在那一瞬間彷彿世界都靜止下來了……

靜音，共同想解決的問題 T_T
正在收集如何改的資訊~可否向各位要仔細的資訊，
你這好像是德製，是否不管是哪一版(德/大陸版)都要改?

請問您的靜音型散熱風扇是買哪一個型號？在哪裡買呢？不知版上的大大們有沒有人換過側吹風扇了？我的側吹風扇像咖啡的磨豆機一樣，受不了，就把那一側的電源拔了，但網路上也找不到，是不是只能跟原廠買呢？不知有沒有超靜音型的：P

可以分享下那三个黄色支架stl吗？

太強大了

馬達並聯是接角並？？？

所以想改這個，要先換風扇，不然然過熱問題還是一直都在，另外，我記得要換這個是不是要改程式。

順便問一下 柯紀維 兄,你換完之後,出料跟以前一樣嗎?我覺得變得很容易溢料??(同一東西,同一設定,同一料)

請問這個渦輪風扇的跟你改的那個噴頭風扇比起來，聲音會大很多嗎？

問個蠢問題 改馬達是為了配合晶片嗎？

把亂飛的線捉掉了，但預壓似乎過大，造成比重偏移。
明天再來設計筆芯的夾具，應該會比亂湊的東西好很多才對。

娘子，快出來看神人喔！

類似畫蛋機，應該可以用類似轉檔方式

有神！

來寫書法吧，看F牌居然能寫書法讓我心癢啊

重點是產生gcode 的方式

紙都變形了，所以有反光。
但在設計筆芯夾具後，畫出的圖案精準度有上升了，神韻大約看得出來。
不過這個東西其實算前身，是為了作電路板所準備的。
另外，在實作時發現也可以拿來測玻璃的平面度。