ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » Kisslicer

只能設定Z軸高度多少開啟

感謝！在那個地方設定呢？ 廖新弘

在FAN Z(MM)那邊

kisslicer是在第N mm, slic3r則是第N 層

謝謝解答!! 寶典看不夠認真~羞愧阿

yes, unfortunately that is how KISSlicer's support function behaves. No matter the density you set, it will always create a denser support to interface with the object when it gets to just a few layers in proximity

I should add that I am using the most current beta version of Kisslicer - the one that supports round print beds.

It is easy to switch out versions of Kisslicer - the program itself is totally separate from all the parameters, so all you have to do is replace the kisslicer64.exe file.

Kisslicer sometimes got different bug on different revision ;p
Anyway, you always can preview the slice result layer by layer in kisslicer.

Whats the current value set for skin thickness?

Also can you post a screenshot of the sliced model in kisslicer?

I posted the first 3 Kisslicer layers and a shot of my settings in a new posting.

You are correct Clarence - I tried the "old" version of Kisslicer and it behaves differently. It did start with a solid first layer, but it also put in some strange things in subsequent layers.

Apparently there is something unusual about my STL file but I'm not sure what it is.

How about to use the Netfabb basic to check the stl file?

A sort of did that - I ran it through the Microsoft/Netfabb Model Repair Service.

Wow thats some strange behaviour, did kisslicer show any errors in the model upon import?

Yes and no. Kisslicer put up the error-code dialog box, but that just shows different colors for different kinds of errors. It did the slicing with no complaints at all.

The picture below shows a bottom view of my model. The bottom itself is just a 2D surface - it has no thickness. This may be the cause of the problem.

the model has to be solid, or fully enclosed by surfaces on all side in order to work properly in slicers. You can try to run it through meshmixer to solidify the model

You are correct!

I tried printing another model (a trial version of a napkin ring) and got really bad results. Then it occurred to me that I should convert my model from it's standard type (NURBS surfaces) to a mesh before generating the STL file. Af ter I did this the model printed fine.

My modeling program has the ability to convert any internal model to a mesh - and it even allows you to specify all sorts of mesh parameters - so I have no need for Meshmixer. I thought Meshmixer had a lot of useless functions anyway, but I can see how it would be good for an artistic person who wanted to make a free-form model of something.

that's great, are you using rhino to model? there are ways to make solid models without converting model to mesh. Here is a good read: http://wiki.mcneel.com/rhino/faqclosedsolids

Most excellent - thanks. Yes, I use Rhino and especially Grasshopper to make my models. I really like the concept behind parametric modelling.

rhino + grasshopper is awesome, looking forward to your works!

This model and the the large orange vase I posted before were both made with the same Grasshopper layout. I've got more models that say they will require around 30 hours to print. I'm not brave enough (yet) to actually print those. Plus I am still learning about how to deal with naked edges etc.

"Hair" is what we called string....so you should check your "destring" settings......the nozzle limitation for 0.2mm layer is about 60mm/s, it can certainly go faster, but the quality is obviously impacted. The rest is depending on how well adjustment for the system.

Thanks Bato. I've changed Destring Suck from 6 to 10 and increased the speed setting from 40 to 50 (23 to 27.5 mm/sec.) This time I'm printing a smaller part.

It's feel great, saw my blade seat on your ATOM. :D

Actually, My Suck" is just 5 and the speed is 120.... you can try it.

Setting Destring Suck to 10 is a bad idea - my filament just broke at the extruder so I have to find a way to get the broken part out of the teflon tube. This is going to be tricky.

I've set it back to 5 per your suggestion.

Suck 10mm is kind of too much, melted and expanded PLA will clog when they contact upper cold area.....and most of the time, it is very hard to pull it out....during the very early beta period, I was suffer from this, because 10mm suck is safe for 1.0. In my case, I replaced the whole inner PTFE tube to fix what I did.

I'm back in business Bato - thanks for the explanation about the Suck value.

What I did to fix the problem was to disconnect the teflon tube from the extruder and use a piece of brown filament to push out the broken part of the orange filament that wa s stuck inside. Of course I heated the hot-end up to 200% first.

It was actually quite easy to push out the old filament. When I saw the brown filament coming out of the extruder I knew I had fixed the problem. So I then re-loaded the orange and am now off printing again.

My next print - a cup or tumbler shape - is 59% finished now and it's clear that Destring Suck = 5 creates more hairs then 6. So next I'll try 7 and see if that is enough of an improvement.

This is my second print - it took about 9 hours. Only problem was a fairly large number of strings on the inside as a result of Destring suck = 5.. I removed these with some light sanding. Next print will try Destring suck = 7 since I already know 6 creates strings too.

people say that lower temperature will help.

Very interesting. I'll try 190 degrees next time. Thanks for the tip.

Birk Binnard For D-string i use 8-8-3 with a layer thickness of 0.2 that works really well and there are no hairs at all.

I made an experiment with a very complex model to see how the printer handles in the extremes. The G-code was 150 MB. Layer thickness was 0.1 and D-string was 8-8-3. Speed was 20. As you can see the amout of hairs looks a bid like a spider gone crazy. For some weird reason the lower part are more fragile than the upper part wich is very fine in detail. The print took 42 hours to complete and there were no problems on the way. Damn its a good printer!

BTW, check the push-fit. Make sure it's not moving up & down with the retraction. If it's moving, try to use some wire to tide it up.

I guess this model would print better with support made in Kiss, but I wanted stress the printer.

Clarence Lee what do you mean by push-fit?

this is great Birk! glad to see your printer is working now and very stable

The release sleeve might move.

André Medborg Actually I would like to go with the support like that, it's much easier to remove & still good result. Is it generate by Meshmixer?

Yes the release sleeve by the feeder is moving, but I have tried holding it back with two fingers and it really wants to move. Are you sure it should be still. I mean it makes sense, but the prints I made this far looks really nice (for the most part that is).

Clarence Lee I dont know how the support for the dragon is made. I found on Thingiverse But I do know that it takes a lot longer to print than conventional sparse support.

It's ok to use some removable wire or cable tide to stop it moving for better retract performance.

Thanks Andre - I've got a 6 hr. print I will do tomorrow with 8-8-3. Will post results here when done.

Clarence Lee thanks for the tip. I will try it it out.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:699415
or something like that

Sweet, thanks for that.

settings Level 改 Expert

喔 ! 感謝!

Hi Andre, What have you been printing so far ? Why don't you share some of your works and settings and we could start discussing from there~

I have been printing for slightly less than a week and it is very clear to me that the slicing program is a key piece of the 3D printing environment, perhaps almost as important as the printer itself.

I have changed my KISS settings a bit from the recommended ones. I've got the Fast/Precise slider set to 42, and becau se my printer was experiencing some stepper-motor over-runs I added this statement to the GCode Prefix section:

M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z2000.00 E9000.00 ;max acceleration

This reduces the maximum acceleration from the firmware default of 3000 mm/sec to 2000 mm/sec. I also turned off the Prime Pillar.

In addition to Kisslicer I have been experimenting with another slicer:

http://www.craftunique.com/craftware?utm_source=Blog......

This slicer is not well known, but after looking at all the commonly used ones it was pretty clear to me this one was the most user-friendly, and in particular had the best 3D display of slicing results and extruder path. It also has a wealth of parameters that are not only well arranged, but also have good explanations.

Craftware seems to do a better job of calculating tool paths than Kisslicer. For instance, for an irregularly shaped first layer, Kisslicer will make several outline paths, and then fill in the middle with straight lines. Craftware, on the other hand, makes a series of concentric loops, decreasing in size as it reaches the center.

I think this makes for a better looking bottom, and also reduces the chance of over-run.

On the negative side, Craftware neither checks for nor repairs non-manifold STL models, and will typically do strange things when it tries to slice one. I've also had occurrences where it crashed trying to slice a complex but good STL file. So at this point my sense is there is no one good answer to "which is the best slicer?".

Birk, thanks for sharing I will take a look at it and try it out. But still I would like to gather a list of prefered settings for KISSslicer. After all this still is a very powerful tool (and it rarely crashes;).

Birk Binnard I have started testing CraftWare and my first hand impression is that this really is an awesome program. I will make some prints and share my results in a week or so.

I will be very interested to see what you think about the Craftware slicer. Before my Atom2 arrived I used it to slice many models and I found that the program still had a number of bugs.

For instance, sometimes it would simply stop slicing in the mi ddle of a model. Other times it would put solid layers in the middle of an open vase-type model. And sometimes it would simply crash. But I have to admit that some of my models cause any slicer to crash, and I have tested all of them.

Here is a link to the Craftware user groups. Some of the postings there may help you.

http://www.craftunique.com/forums

I have also tried cradtware before. First impression was that it takes longer to slice. One of the awesome aspect of kisslicer is that it slices extremely fast!

Actually my experience has been just the opposite. Of all the slicers I tested, and I tested all of them, Craftware was by far the fastest slicer, especially when using the Vector slicing option.

I think the reason for this is that Craftware is a mul ti-threaded application, meaning it can break the slicing operation into multiple concurrent independent tasks, and assign each task to an individual CPU for processing.

My computer has an i7 processor; this has 8 independent CPUs and can process 8 instruction streams at once. This means that a multi-threaded slicer will slice the same object 8 times faster than single threaded processor computer.

Birk Binnard I think slic3r/kisslicer use multi-threads,too. But maybe some dependency or slice flow difference.
Anyway, I tried craftware newest version. It's really faster than kisslicer on large object. (just tried to generate a 36MB gcode)

maybe it was the mac version that's slow....

右上角小圖點右鍵可以選擇變換方向。這好像超過列印範圍了吧，要站起來印...

Thank you!! 似乎拆件列印比較可行...

有個speed bar可以左右拖...fast / precise之間去設定...
越靠近precise越慢

Fan/cool
這欄就是....
目前設定的意思是0.15層高開始全速吹

是阿~可是它就是不動>_<

LCD 就是從 Temperature 那邊進入, 把 Fan 調整成 255 就是全速.