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原文網址 鄭東昇 2015-08-21 10:34:01
嗨,
有個樣品需要用這個機台印ABS材質~ (目前有印PLA，但客戶需求ABS做比較)
重量約17.8g
可以製作板友，可再跟我聯絡與報價~
謝謝!
廖宇清 2015-08-21 10:45:44
我我~
鄭東昇 2015-08-21 10:47:18
好，我在私訊跟你討論
原文網址 Roy Lo 2015-08-14 09:33:58
角度設定成360度，結果好多疙瘩 ? ，有底板的那一面好難清除，需要搭橋的地方感覺來不及冷卻，嗯～參數真難調～ ?
la FabShop Mobile found on # Thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:359008
Stanley Ho 2015-08-14 09:38:27
試降低溫度少少，回抽用120起，另可flow0.98%,打印要慢。。。
原文網址 林祐德 2015-08-11 20:34:40
測試報告~ 目前abs不開熱床，用abs juice+brim。印出10*10，ok不會翹曲~ kisslicer brim 15mm, high 1.2 checked - brim fillet. juice不像youtube塗薄薄一層，而是有點厚度。如果摸起來有光滑感就會失敗，要摸起來是粗糙感才ok。 abs後處理的物件看起來就是~~~爽~~~ 另外還有一招，物件下層再畫一層薄薄的圓形raft(印出來後剪掉)，再開brim。
原文網址 連宏城 2015-08-05 19:01:15
不知Atom2的耐熱極限是多少？因為買了一款夜光ABS，現在已經試到260度，還沒法搞定說
Clarence Lee 2015-08-05 19:03:53
無法搞定什麼?
連宏城 2015-08-05 19:07:24
原本用PLA，230度OK，然後換ABS後，就炒米粉，所以就溫度往上加，剛加到270度印得OK了。納悶的是噴頭的耐熱安全值是大約幾度呢
戴士偉 2015-08-05 19:21:56
250
戴士偉 2015-08-05 19:23:09
建議用 245試試, 速度先降慢點
戴士偉 2015-08-05 19:24:05
比較怕的是... 你的鐵氟龍管已經融了, 那就要抽掉換新的
Charlie Ting 2015-08-05 19:45:38
程式設定好像是２７５會斷電
麥麥 2015-08-05 19:48:05
PLA也不用230度吧！
Charlie Ting 2015-08-05 19:58:42
其實如果可以，我還想試更高溫的材料。 因為加熱溫度越高，代表成品的耐用性會越高。 至於鐵氟龍管，我並不在意，若是必要的話，把那一段換成金屬管就好了。不覺得那是限制的重要因素～
連宏城 2015-08-05 20:19:16
不解的是PLA寫210,但230度品質較佳，同廠牌ABS，寫210~230,但一直要加熱到270才不會炒米粉。不知是料有問題還是溫度計有問題
麥麥 2015-08-05 20:20:09
就算是ABS,也應該是230度左右就可以印了,你可能要判斷一下
Charlie Ting 2015-08-05 20:32:18
溫度這東西的變數大，如果是我，會先拿溫度計測一下，先確定溫度有準之後，再試什麼溫度能印得好。不然你會在這些數字之間鬼打牆。 當然，可能有些人能印得好了，那可能就會以他習慣的數字去運作，而這數字可能並不準確。 簡言之，你得先搞定其中一項，再解決另一項。
Anthony Lu 2015-08-05 20:48:24
有些PLA為了cost issue 會在押出時混入ABS料。所以溫度會要往上走。
連宏城 2015-08-05 20:49:33
不知有什麼溫度計可用來測噴頭溫度呢
Charlie Ting 2015-08-05 20:51:30
去電子材料行有賣電子溫度計，一支好像二三百而已。
麥麥 2015-08-05 20:57:13
Anthony Lu PLA與ABS 價格並不會差很多,只是可能需各方面要多做判斷
Anthony Lu 2015-08-05 21:00:47
嗯 感謝資訊! 我也是這麼覺得不會差很多。肯定是賣塑膠粒的不好笑廠商。隨便亂報價
麥麥 2015-08-05 21:03:02
台灣人最會騙台灣人的~~XD
Shi Xinhui 2015-08-05 21:12:52
是歹丸人願給歹丸人騙～～:-P
戴士偉 2015-08-05 21:14:35
是台灣人願意給台灣人機會...
陳明谷 2015-08-06 15:29:17
相信以後台灣人會值得被相信
原文網址 林文和 2015-07-17 15:08:11
新手再詢問~問題多多,幫忙說明解說是第幾項目:
1.想列印的圖面放入KISSlicer後,如何移位? (位偏要移到置中,塗膠比較容易掌握位置大小)
2.印好的模型會將玻璃取下再鏟下模型嗎?還是直接再機台上鏟下? (取下玻璃很麻煩,不取下有些東西黏很緊,鏟除過程有些很緊,會大力鏟造成大幅度的"頓"+'震動'機台,怕機台久了之後有需精準的位置會跑掉或壞掉)
3.大家都使用PLA列印還是ABS? (若PLA的列印習性及軟體設定都熟了,要改印ABS是不是材質習性跟軟體設定參數都要再摸索一次~和PAL比較下,個人喜歡ABS特性,但ATOM是送PLA因該有其用意 )
4.列印後大家會把塗膠全部鏟乾淨,還是下次要印時再補上之前剷除的膠就好? (膠若不鏟,放個一兩天不會因灰塵而造成黏性不足嗎?或是補上膠再某些與上次重疊的地方太厚而造成精準跑掉?)
5.噴頭兩側風扇及後方的風扇是作什麼的? (KISSlicer好像有作這個風力調整,不懂真的不知如何去調整參數)
6.請問大家印好東西後最作什麼後續保養嗎? (如:退料or手推料材通噴頭...等)
7.東西印壞了,在停止之後噴頭溫度若還在190度以上時,會選冷卻指令來降溫或是直接關掉電源自然空冷,或其他~ (不同做法對噴頭有什影響)
8.進料後的線材作退料動作後,那些退料的線材可以再使用嗎? (我的線退出後都會有滾輪咬痕,再穿進去作進料時會在不定點地方空轉,料不再前進,且滾磨出很多屑屑,只好再退料,但又退不出來,'全程'需用手輔助用力拉出,然後料以都是咬痕,只好剪掉丟了)
David Tsai 2015-07-17 15:27:12
1：畫面右下角四方按鈕就是了
David Tsai 2015-07-17 15:29:02
2:直接在機上鏟
David Tsai 2015-07-17 15:30:26
3:atom沒熱床啊，要用abs要自己加熱床
David Tsai 2015-07-17 15:33:48
4:噴酒精抹勻，如果用到膠面平整度差就鏟除
Odinson Thor 2015-07-17 15:35:09
1.我也想知道 2.我會直接鏟下 3.目前只印過原廠附的PLA(快印完了XD) 4.早就改用藍色膠帶了，口紅膠實在髒亂，也許是我有潔癖(? 5.後方25mm風扇幫喉管散熱，就是PLA進入後那根長長的金屬管， 避免噴頭溫度回傳到喉管，導致部分PLA在喉管中就融化，要融不融的會卡料(? 兩側35mm風扇用來吹列印件，避免熱堆積 6.請問大家印好東西後最作什麼後續保養嗎? 除非列印過程手動強迫停止列印，不然印好後機器會自己Cool Down， 要印時可直接插入記憶卡，從記憶卡中列印，機器會自然回溫到Kisslicer指定的溫度。 7.目前的想法是PLA長時間保持高溫有可能會變質，是否碳化未可知，但之後有可能影響正常出料。 正常列印完成會自然Cool Down是無所謂，但如果是手動強迫停止，溫度會一直維持在Kisslicer設定的溫度， 所以短時間內沒有要再印東西的話，最好操作面板指令讓它Cool Down 這一點不知該如何修改韌體，讓機器在手動停止列印後，能夠接著Cool Down? 8.受損的料通常我都剪掉，雖然有點可惜，但與其印壞又損失料， 以及節省的時間比起來，損失約50公分的線材應該可以接受。
林文和 2015-07-17 15:36:32
David Tsai ATOM要印abs要加熱床喔`好像沒看到如何加
David Tsai 2015-07-17 15:47:50
原廠資料中沒有，要自己網路爬文。atom照理說應該提供控制主板的說明書，但並沒提供，所以搞不清楚板上目前未用到的端子是何工能。所以ㄧ樣要爬文找
原文網址 Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-14 11:31:42
請問各位大大高手，ATOM 2.0這台有辦法溫度到270~300度來做ABS的料嗎?據我所知ATOM 2.0這台溫度最高只到220度，只適合用PLA材料，不知道我所知道的對不對?
Clarence Lee 2015-07-14 11:45:31
ABS哪有這麼高溫? 270~300那是一些特殊材質吧@@
劉宏威 2015-07-14 12:17:29
不會只能到220， 鐵氟龍管的耐熱溫度好像是260。 不過270到300，應該不會是普通ABS
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-14 12:33:16
之前用UP的3D print ABS溫度是到300度
麥麥 2015-07-14 14:13:50
你的機器感溫器壞了
Charlie Ting 2015-07-14 14:21:01
我有用 240 度印過 ABS, 還ＯＫ。
謝尚栢 2015-07-14 22:42:21
有加熱床嗎
Charlie Ting 2015-07-14 22:54:21
我是沒加，我的想法是只要捉得住，用比較熱的溫度，關風扇，快速印完一層，這樣每層的變形量會有限，就不至於誤差太大。
Chu Ching-lin 2015-07-15 08:01:14
請問高手所以ATOM 2.0 可以印 ABS的料嗎？鐵氟龍管受熱240度下，時間長不會變形吧？目前我有在軟體關所有風扇，可是開機時主風扇就一直轉了，這算正常嗎？
謝尚栢 2015-07-15 08:11:00
喉管如果不散熱會卡料
原文網址 Charlie Ting 2015-07-09 17:08:48
[想法徵詢]
打算來試一下 ABS 材質，但聽說降溫後尺寸會縮小。 但目前的 ATOM 2.0 並沒有加裝熱床，所以有個突發奇想的用法，想聽聽大家的看法。我今天會作個試驗。
1. 用布膠貼在玻璃上，一來它很黏，二來可隔熱。 2. 全程關閉風扇，減緩降溫速度。 3. 減輕機器週邊的對流，最好形成密閉空間。（或許用紙箱圍起來） 4. 加速列印速度。
理想的狀況是讓相鄰的輸出層溫差不要差太多，然後讓每一層還是能接得起來，然後自然降溫。
因為我之前用另一台印 ABS 時，會因為長時間的熱床造成底部的翹曲和密度上升問題，覺得很不好用。所以如果可以不用加熱直接印，或許會是可以測試的作法，但不確定它的變形量和溫度的關係。
Cadmus Zeng 2015-07-09 18:18:36
紙箱圍起來然後用烘被機應該是好辦法XDDDDD
陳順得 2015-07-09 18:44:20
把側裙開大一點
戴士偉 2015-07-09 19:22:32
上快乾！........................................................... (也沒啥用)
王祥豐 2015-07-10 17:08:50
ABS的收縮率為0.5~0.8%，遠超過PLA的0.2~0.4%，因此既使使用保溫箱，打印出來的變形率跟收縮率也難以控制。
原文網址 戴士偉 2015-07-05 11:50:36
還是ABS漂亮，但收縮很難搞
Jie Yang Wang 2015-07-05 11:51:43
很漂亮耶~這料好像也很好
廖新弘 2015-07-05 11:52:58
很漂亮
Danny Kuo 2015-07-05 12:00:53
看不出疊紋耶~厲害!!!
Kevin Chen 2015-07-05 12:01:33
這狗太可愛了吧，在thingiverse上找的嗎？
戴士偉 2015-07-05 12:21:29
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:431981 這一隻喔 :) 料是便宜的淘寶炫亮ABS XD
Kevin Chen 2015-07-05 12:23:40
感謝~請問你有調infill嗎？我自己覺得會收縮的料infill越高越容易變形，可能是內應力造成的吧
戴士偉 2015-07-05 12:24:05
5%... XD
蕭閔吉 2015-07-05 12:36:21
這是ATOM2.0印的嗎
Devin Chang 2015-07-05 12:40:57
有後處理過嗎 這也太漂亮了吧
戴士偉 2015-07-05 12:48:00
2.0 沒錯 拆支撐跟修掉側裙算後處理嗎 XD
蕭閔吉 2015-07-05 12:50:51
爲何可以沒疊紋？太強了
戴士偉 2015-07-05 12:54:20
是手機太爛... 其實還是有的 但摸起來的手感實在太棒了 XD
Jeff Lin 2015-07-05 13:21:55
2.0怎改噴頭可以印ABS?
陳明谷 2015-07-05 13:59:52
缺點是不能回收
劉宏威 2015-07-05 15:45:00
其實ABS可以回收，PLA不能回收喔。 而且如果PLA混入塑膠回收處理，會造成整批的塑膠回收料報廢。 埋土裡等他分解的時間長，還佔空間，而且需要埋在特殊肥料中。 PLA最目前最環保的處理方式，是直接丟垃圾場燒毀....... (不過成份還是比ABS環保啦)
Devin Chang 2015-07-05 15:46:02
這印的也太好了吧 超強
陳明谷 2015-07-05 16:06:48
劉宏威 有驚嚇到!!! 重新去搜尋一下發現我資訊錯誤了 謝謝指正
戴士偉 2015-07-05 18:35:10
2.0本來就可以印ABS @@
Mark Chen 2015-07-05 18:42:06
標榜可以印PLA機器 絕對可以印ABS
Mark Chen 2015-07-05 18:42:36
標榜只能印ABS的機器 簡單講究就是沒辦法印PLA
Jeff Lin 2015-07-05 18:59:09
需要把鐵氟龍管拿掉嗎？
戴士偉 2015-07-05 19:23:31
拿掉也太麻煩了... @@
Clarence Lee 2015-07-05 19:29:25
樓上神的是連熱床都沒用？
戴士偉 2015-07-05 20:31:34
熱床還沒改... 很懶 XDD
Clarence Lee 2015-07-05 22:46:32
所以ABS不用熱床真是跌破眼鏡... ;p
Taki Tseng 2015-07-06 17:38:30
ABS的特色就是比較沒有疊紋 所以一直是模型界最愛的材料 只是回歸3dp我也有聽說鐵氟龍管240~250開始會釋放有毒物質....
張不凡 2015-07-06 19:16:23
有神快拜
游仁亨 2015-07-06 20:58:20
我的狗仔們
Jeff Lin 2015-07-06 21:04:21
印這狗需要做支撐嗎？
廖新弘 2015-07-06 21:17:18
整隻我覺得要
Jeff Lin 2015-07-06 21:28:38
剛剛看了一下，原來模型是有分件的
廖新弘 2015-07-07 07:49:55
昨晚測試，未組裝
廖新弘 2015-07-07 17:46:39
組裝完成照片，覺得印整隻比較好看
Estima Lin 2015-07-07 23:39:47
開支撐，層高0.3，高度60mm,試印... 臉部細節算不錯，有點卡料印的～
Estima Lin 2015-07-07 23:40:30
支撐的地方就差強人意了...
戴士偉 2015-07-07 23:50:32
0.3 好像有點高~ XD
Estima Lin 2015-07-07 23:53:25
比較省時間～ 摸索中，印壞得比好的還多...
廖新弘 2015-07-08 18:21:02
用cura切片，全支撑，肚子有點皺
Estima Lin 2015-07-08 19:28:36
專家與玩票性質的差別…
廖新弘 2015-07-08 19:32:18
還是正面照片比較漂亮
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2015-05-27 21:19:20
Good news and Bad news: the good news is I was able to print (almost) the ribbed vase I was having trouble slicing. To get it to slice I doubled the bottom's thickness from 3.1 mm to 6.2 mm. And when I printed the part I scaled it up from 110 mm high to 120 mm high.
With these changes Kisslicer seemed to slice it OK. However, Craftware still would not slice it properly. So I used Kisslicer's GCode to start printing. The estimated total print time was a little under 14 hours.
The print looked absolutely superb up to the time I went to sleep for the night. You can see how smooth the inside and outside surfaces are in the first image below. Without a doubt this is the highest quality I have printed so far. Setting Layer Height = 0.2 mm might be the key to that. I was hoping for a really great finished part when I got up the nest morning.
Unfortunately this was not the case. When I got up and turned on the light (it was just before 5AM) the printer was at about the 90% mark and doing just fine. I turned on my PC to get ready to post this message, and very shortly after that the printer stopped printing. I looked at the LCD and it had gone back to the main Info screen where it showed 0 for the heated temperature and the actual temperature dropping fast. So I had no choice but to stop the print and do an Auto-Home.
The printer is powered from the same power control center as my PC. This unit has 4 independently switchable power outlets and is itself connected to a UPS box. My guess is that there was a slight voltage drop caused by turning on my PC, and this somehow affected the Atom2's circuits.
After I did Auto-Home I checked the motherboard connection of the 2 yellow thermistor wires and that was fine. Then I tried Preheat to 200 and that worked OK. So I do think the printer is physically OK.
The second photo below shows the other problem I had: The bottom came off the part when I tried removing it from the print bed. In fact, the bottom did not print as designed - most likely as a result of what Andrew Lee discovered when he looked at the part's STL file. The bottom was supposed to be 6.2 mm thick, but in fact it printed a bottom only 0.6 mm thick (0.6 mm = 3 times 0.2mm layer thickness).
Even though this print failed I am very pleasantly surprised at the quality the Atom2 is capable of printing. I am going to change the way the bottom surfaces are created and try this print again - probably in a smaller version first. Hopefully that will yield an even more impressive result.
André Medborg 2015-05-27 21:41:44
Birk Binnard this makes me curious. Try send me the file. I would love to look at in my 3d setup. I think you have more than one surface in the buttom.
Clarence Lee 2015-05-27 21:45:20
Maybe find out the best temperature for this filament could help the problem. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:282520/#instructions BTW, layer 0.15, 0.1 event 0.05mm worth a try for the beautiful detail. ;p
Birk Binnard 2015-05-27 21:56:04
Andre - I'm sorry but I have deleted the STL file and have only the GCode left - so we will never know what actually happened. However, I have just finished re-defining how the part is made and I now have the inside surface joined with only the insid …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2015-05-27 23:22:42
Andre - I forgot that I had saved the STL file from the part you looked at on a cloud drive. I also put up there my "fixed" version of the part Here is the URL for both. The fixed one is called thermos.stl: http://1drv.ms/1GDCLSZ …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 01:20:52
Finished slice this thermos.stl on Kisslicer 1.5 Beta 2.2 Peak memory usage is about 3.5GB bottom is about 6.2mm …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 01:44:48
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:851525 remixed 245~190 version
Birk Binnard 2015-05-28 02:59:27
Hi Clarence. I have the same version of Kisslicer as you do, and when I sliced thermos.stl I get strange results. My key parameters are 0.2mm layer thickness, Num loops = 3, Extrusion width = 0.38, Skin Thickness = 2 mm, and Infill = Vase. Here are th …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 08:34:30
Why infill vase or hollow? I think slicer did them right. But for this stl, it should be infill at least 10? Check the start of my gcode, you can found the slicer setting there for reference.
Clarence Lee 2015-05-28 08:37:32
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18672 Check this stl, I think this kind of the model design would need to use infill=vase . Suggest to design like that, a solid cylinder. …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2015-05-28 12:15:02
Clarence = thanks for your comments. Because I started designing models before I ever got a printer I had to guess how to do it. At the time it seemed to me that a vase or bowl type part should have an inside and an outside so it would have sufficient …… 查看更多
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2015-05-18 02:08:57
Are there any suggestions on how to prevent this?The part is being printed with PLA and it stayed stuck to the print bed for more than an hour. Before printing I cleaned the bed with alcohol and applied a thin, even layer of glue stick.
I added 1 layer high (0.2mm) mouse ears at the 4 corners to help keep the part stuck to the print bed. The part has been printing for about 2 hours now. But when I last checked it had become un-stuck on 3 of the 4 corners. In this pic you can see that on the left-side corner the mouse ear was actually de-laminated - the outer filament trace is still stuck to the print bed, but all the others are un-stuck.
It looks like perhaps the entire piece has simply contracted - perhaps due to some sort of shrinkage resulting from cooling. There must be some fairly strong forces involved to de-laminate the filament. But what causes them is a mystery to me.
Does this suggest I should use ABS instead of PLA for parts like this? Will the Atom2 print ABS OK without a heated bed?
I'm going to let the part finish printing and will post a pic of how it turns out.
Clarence Lee 2015-05-18 02:29:50
Possible solution: 1.use a much bigger mouse ear 2. consider to turn off the M106 controllered cooling fan(set a very high fan z on kisslicer) since it's a large object. Should be fine without cooling. …… 查看更多
Ludovic Giroux 2015-05-18 05:37:18
Simple De l'abs melanger a de l'acétone pour obtenir un jus. En suite prendre un chiffon et en mettre sur le plateau. …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2015-05-18 05:53:29
Ludovic: merci beaucoup!
Ludovic Giroux 2015-05-18 06:23:31
De rien Comment as tu acheté une atom et ou. J'aimerais en acheter une une. …… 查看更多
Birk Binnard 2015-05-18 06:45:12
Ludovic: I am in the US and was included in the Atom2 "Early Adopter" program. That means I was able to get an Atom2 before they became available for order in the US. People in Taiwan and (I think) in Japan can get Atom2 now, but not anyone else. I …… 查看更多
Andrew Lee 2015-05-18 10:36:10
Birk - perhaps try applying a thicker layer of gluestick, different gluestick brand or a stronger one. Also try waiting a bit for the gluestick to "dry" first I can assure both english manuals will be much more improved in terms of translation. (The draft version you received was quite literally a draft) Extra details from suggestions will be added. Thank you …… 查看更多
André Medborg 2015-05-18 15:32:30
Birk Binnard here is a link on the print bed adhesion issues. http://reprap.org/wiki/Bed_material The fool proof solution if everything else fails I found to be brown paper packaging tape with UHU gluestick on top. I us this solution on very large objects with corners. I never fails! Oh, and no need for heated bed.
Birk Binnard 2015-05-18 15:53:30
Thanks Andre - I've been doing some reading on the subject myself ,and the general consensus seems to be that 3M blue painter's tape on a cold bed works about as well as anything. The reason given is that there is wax (or something) in the tape that m …… 查看更多
André Medborg 2015-05-18 15:57:57
Birk Binnard try and send my your g-code for the heart box that troubles you and I will test it with my setup.
Clarence Lee 2015-05-18 16:29:40
Large area object test: http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/62187225
Birk Binnard 2015-05-18 22:26:10
Clarence - yes, the Geckotek test #4 at about 45:00 is exactly what I am talking about. What did you do to solve this?
Birk Binnard 2015-05-18 22:50:23
Andre - thanks for your help with this.Here is the link to download the box GCode. It includes mouse ears twice the size of those shown on the previous photo. http://1drv.ms/1S1tuIN …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-18 23:27:30
I think previous few suggestion I post ed, each of them is a possible solution. Since almost all I tested before and proved works. Geckotek plate is a special plate design by geckotek3d.com for PLA without glue & heatbed. I just get it about a week. St …… 查看更多
Clarence Lee 2015-05-19 08:19:33
This corner might be a little not flat enough. If it's not geckotek plate. another tips I never tried but heard it works is use super glue on the corner during printing. I printed square box about 10x10cm before a few times. It's really hard to fight with at least one corner might warp. Sometimes I still thinking if it's round corner might be helpful?
Clarence Lee 2015-05-19 08:19:39
Andrew Lee 2015-05-19 08:41:26
Has anyone tried kisslicer's brim with the mouse ears?
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