ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » EX

一進三出啊

麥麥 他還沒改完 ?

黃昱縉 這樣改，不會累啊

如果沒升降切換機構，三噴這樣搞意義不大

Moko Jenson Huang 等你分享三噴機構模型XD

沒有分享過嗎?現在都拆光了~~只剩下紀錄片。哈哈

This is only part one of the build. I am adding a second extrusion motor now for a the second hotend, and a third will be added when I can upgrade the control board.

I suppose you'll need to switch to the Duet for that, but what about slicing? I haven't seen slicers with triple effector/extruder support.

This looks like a promising configuration - far better than the multi-in/single-out ones I've tried.,But When there is a nozzle change, where will the software be that adjusts the nozzle position to allow each of the 3 nozzles to continue printing in t he correct location? In theory it could be either in the printer firmware, or in the slicer code, but there has to be some way to invoke it when there is a nozzle change required.

單顆的話，應該是壞了或是線沒接好

可以試試看把連桿的極性對調看看

感謝~~~~~

I aso changed to duet wifi, but I am thinking maybe duet maestro is more suitable for atom.
I can share the experience after some test

Amazing, thanks for sharing! How did you do the enclosure? The acrylic seems embossed, but maybe it's flat.

軟體那邊有調整口徑嗎？

跑個五分鐘後停下來，把送料管拔出來看裡面是不是有卡料，有的話就是回抽太長了

軟體切片口徑的設定要確認，線徑也要

請問口徑\是紅圈處嗎?

線徑確認是1.75mm沒錯

感謝各位大大，目前測試感覺進料手臂順了，但在測試列印發現新的問題，如圖，再請各位大大指教。

Amazing works!

What is better about the duet board? Does it have better stepper drivers?

Birk Binnard live firmware updates, better drivers, web interface. A lot more expansion. More importantly it's a 32-bit board which gives you better performance on calculating delta kinematics in comparison to the 8-bit board.

I'm in the process of doing the same, but I'm replacing the effector with a smart effector and an E3D V6. The Atom never printer properly for me, the filament always got clogged at some point. Now I'm finally able to source parts in North America, which is a big relief.

Yes, nozzle clogs seem to be the great nemesis of the Atom design. I tried using a Mini hotend but that got clogged too and there's no way to torch it without pretty much destroying it. So I went back to one of the beta nozzles used during the 2.5 EX d evelopment process.

I put a longer PTFE tube in it that comes very close to meeting the end of the external PTFE tube from the extruder. That seems to make a big difference. I also put connectors on all the wires coming out of the end effector so I can switch without having to re-string everything through the Bowden wrapper.

I would be really interested in what you come up with. Let me know if you need help, because I am wanting to switch to an all metal hot end too. You might want to look at a Zesty Nimble as an extruder too.

The joined PTFE should come pretty much flush with the one going into the nozzle. I know I had to swap out what ever was in there for are 35mm one or something.

I got the printer running, but it's in an intermediate state where I need to print some more pieces to work properly. The V6 is a major change, I don't have any of the issues I had with the Atom effector (ie. Low flow and extruder jamming). The main th ing at the moment is recalibration as the geometry is different with the smart effector. I'm now trying to mount the smart effector on top of the Atom effector platform, it seems like it might work. I'll keep you posted. I also have a Titan extruder that I intend to mount, I'm currently using a first gen Dyze Extruder, as I had issues with the Atom extruder.

Word of warning, PTFE is all the same. Going hotter than 260 will start off gas, even thr capricorn tubes. They just take longer to degrade.

Would the duet work for the Atom 2.0?

Yinka Alade yeah, no reason it shouldn't work. You do have to do some degree of rewiring and recrimping, but it's not something too difficult.

I'm on the way to switch my motherboard to Duet2 Wifi. I have the Duet board, but not the screen touch for the moment.

I'd be happy to help anyway I can if you have questions or issues. I love the Duet, and it was a fun upgrade to do.

When the 2.5 EX was in early development Atom provided an STL file that made a box with some slits that could be used with an X-Acto knife to trim the PTFE tubes at the proper angle. I printed it and it worked fairly well. I don't seem to have the STL file anymore, but I can measure the angle and tell you what it is. I'll post that info on Tuesday.

Well my memory was a bit fuzzy - the box has a straight slit for the knife and 2 curved openings for the PTFE tubes. Here's a link for the box STL file: https://drive.google.com/....../1z2JepmP....../view......

Looks like it came out pretty good and lined up perfectly. Much better than the ptfe tubes that came in the kit.

Looks like massive over extrusion to me too. Easiest way to verify this is to set the slicer's Extrusion Multiplier to a number lower than 1.0. Try 0.5 to start with since it looks like you've got twice as much filament being extruded.

Note that the b oard's firmware has parameters defining the diameter of the extrude gear (and other things) that actually determine how much filament gets extruded by the GCode the firmware processes. So it could be that your extruder gear is larger than the firmware thinks it is.

This was most likely what it was. I updated the post and now have a working printer once again.

Congrats for getting it sorted. Have you tried doing an AutoLevel? A "quirk" of the Atom firmware is that it inverts the Z-Min microswitch setting which is not the case with standard Marlin firmware and I suspect not with other flavors also.

Birk Binnard with RepRap you can invert the switch to trigger when it goes on or goes off. I will be creating a guide later for upgrading your Atom 2.5 EX to using a Duet 2 board. I'll also be sharing the configs I wrote.

?

You should post your info on a Duet message board (if there is one) because that's what is really driving your extruder motors. You can also look at the generated GCode for T0 and T1 - those are the commands that determine which extruder motor is curr ently active. For single extruder printers the default is T0, so if you tell your slicer that you have only one extruder it may not generate any T0 commands. But with dual extruders specified there will definitely be both T0 and T1 commands in the GCode.

Also make sure you have connected your extruder motors to the correct stepper driver connectors on the motherboard. They all look alike and it's easy to get them mixed up.

PS: That light you have on the hotend looks great - what is it? And what powers it?

The light is just a 9-30v 80mm ring/halo LED, and I'm running it off of one of my PWM fan headers, so I can actually dim it and stuff.

It's extruding like it's supposed to, it just seems like it's extruding too fast. I will ask on the Duet forum.

Here is the amazon link of what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078Y6MFNB

Great info - thanks. I'm getting mine now.

Birk Binnard here is the mount I am using, and it seems to work fine. I have it zip tied on for now, going print the other one in cf+polycarbonate.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2807099

Very good - thanks again. I was considering hot glue but that adapter is probably better.

I'm going to use servo tape to seat it permanently.

I printed that Thingiverse part - it doesn't seem to fit very well but it does stay on. Maybe I'll hot glue that to the carrier and then figure a way to attach the light to it.

Mine kind of snaps on, but can come off pretty easily. That’s why I was saying servo tape, but I suppose hot glue will work too.

Still no response from Atom support. Is there a regional holiday going on that I'm not aware of?

Hey John - I got my 2 ring lights today - they look great. But do you know what that rectangular black piece is for? Will the light work if I cut it off and connect the wires directly to one of the fan wires?

Here's a pic of how I'm attaching mine - I just used the sticky tape on top of the light and stuck it onto the bottom pf the printed adapter you found. The clips holding the adapter on to the bottom carrier aren't great, but seem to be able to hold on well enough.

Holy cow! That puppy is really bright. I did a temporary hookup just to see how it worked and it just about lit up the whole room. I'm tempted to cut off that rectangular thing, but I'm leery of what that might do to my motherboard. There really is no good place to put it if it has to stay.

Never mind - I found the answer. This page shows what's inside the little rectangular thing: https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=sspa_dk_detail_6...... .
So I used an X-Acto knife to pry it open and sure enough there are a couple of components in there surrounded by a piece of heat-shrink insulation. These will be small enough to not cause a problem so I'll do the installation in the morning.

Birk Binnard , dont cut that out. That is a resistor to keep the LED from burning up.