• #maker+t=market
  • COSPLAY 3D 建模
  • 3D列印服務
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3

ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » G29

原文網址 Charlie Ting
2016-02-06 18:56:58

[年前分享尾刀]

前一陣子連續印了不少喬巴,從中得到許多經驗可以跟大家分享。但因為是累積多次觀察的心得,所以只講結果,大家自己挾去配~~

1. Wall
新的 KISSlicer 有支援 Wall 的方式來散熱,這個除了散熱之外,還可以用來觀測溫度。簡單來說,當你隨手一折這個 wall 就會破裂的話,代表你設的溫度偏低,層和層之間的結合度不是很好。另外,如果印出來的 wall 沒有透明感的話,代表你的溫度偏高,可能有氣泡了。還有,wall 的表面如果沒有很均勻的髮絲紋,表示你的機器精度可能要注意。

2. Grid vs. Brim
新版的 KISSlicer 可以設定 grid 的疏密度和厚度,上次突發奇想,調了一下這個參數,讓 grid 印出來跟 brim 一樣整個密合。這個東西的好處是它可以強化支撐底部,例如你印一個有細支撐的物件,這個支撐很容易因為底部不夠強而被撞掉,用grid就不容易。另外,這樣的grid也會有比較好的捉地力,可以減少翹曲的問題。同時,grid 跟 brim 是可以共用的,彈性很大。

3. G29 once
以前我習慣讓機器每次都G29,但是這很容易造成膠帶破損,那個力道其實頗大,大概跑二三次,測量點的膠帶就破洞了。之後,我把那指令關掉了。即使換了新膠帶也沒重跑。但還是都能順順印~~而且好處是不會在物件上看到那幾個點的痕跡。我想不論是用膠帶、ZP,G29 還是少跑比較好。

4. ABS
前二天手賤,想說拿 ABS 來試試最近領悟到的列印心法(無熱床印ABS),可惜喬巴大概印了六成,還是不敵翹曲,把物件給撞掉了。或許 z-lift 設高一點有機會成功。但重點是,我發現一般的ABS溫度偏高,這有點傷鐵氟龍管。這事可能有二個方向思考,要嘛用低溫ABS,要嘛就得勤換管子了。

5. 噴嘴
強烈建議沒事就捅一捅噴嘴。拆下噴嘴處的管子後,可以用線材直接捅,這樣可以觀察出料的狀況和速度;也可以手動模擬回抽的狀況,然後觀察噴嘴線材出、停之間的變化。偶而還可能沖出一些髒東西。

用六角扳手捅可以清清前端三角錐區域,也可以感受一下鐵氟龍管壁的狀況,如果是很平滑的狀況,基本上還很OK。如果越來越覺得沙沙的,代表也差不多該換了。

6. 退料後的線頭
理想情況下退料後的線頭應該像一根鈍鈍的針頭,這時鐵氟龍管是完美的。慢慢的,如果你發現線頭變成前面有一段小圓柱,然後有一段頸部,再接到線材上。那表示噴嘴內的狀況在變化了。等這個小圓柱越來越長,也越來越粗(可能大於1.75mm),大概就要拆噴頭保養了。

以上,跟大家分享~~~

其他的就等明年了~~先祝大家新年快樂!

Charlie Ting
2016-02-06 19:02:38

用grid打底,可以很薄很堅韌;用wall可以決定最佳溫度和檢視機器精度。

Bise Chen
2016-02-06 19:03:34

你這裡說的「新版」是哪一個新版?是否順便註明一下呢?

戴光宏
2016-02-06 21:29:29

噴嘴損耗會很高嗎?每次拆裝噴頭組件都很吃力...

蘇子中
2016-02-06 21:51:49

牆的主要功能是什麼呢?表面會印的比較好嗎?


原文網址 Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 17:39:42

Happy new year my Atom friends.

As some of you might know, I got some problems with my hotend last time. It was clogged with PTFE Tube.
After disassembling everything and reassembling it, I got - who would've guessed - new problems.
But first things first.

1. About that PTFE Tube - My old one was "quite short" and was >stuck< in the lower part of the hotend. Maybe 0.5cm above the heating chamber above the nozzle, where the PLA is "collected".
When I tried to measure the length for a new one, I've seen that the newer one is "not as thick" as the old, so it won't get stuck. It just slides right up through to the nozzle. Can this be a Problem?

2. I then printed an iPhone holder for my girlfriend. Had one problem that comes in question 4 (front right corner), but one more that has more gravity to it - A wobble in every layer. Systematically. I cannot imagine how this happens as I didn't change anything while reassembling. Only thing I can imagine is that PTFE Tube inside that hotend nozzle, but I cannot explain logically >why< it is like this. Here are the links to the pictures of the part:
http://img4web.com/i/7FGENQ.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/823QHC.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/JKZD84.jpg
http://img4web.com/i/WEGDGV.jpg
Any ideas how I can get rid of that?

3. Tried to print some parts for my other printer. Should've been no problem. As i calibrated my extruder (Repetier 100mm equals ~102mm, setting esteps for Extruder to 192,XX resulted in Repetier 100mm => Extruder 100mm) my parts got quite nice, with a measurement of approx. +/- 0.05mm.
BUT! Holes came out >too thick<. As i tried to put a smooth rod inside of one part, the hole was 0.3mm too small on right and left (X/Y Axis), Top and downside (which was on Z_Axis) had the 8mm which it should've had.. Had to drill it and had some work of getting that part in. Was wondering where this cames from as other measurement is quite right.

4. and last one
When I print parts, I usually print them in the middle of the glass bed. No Prob so far.
As i printed the parts for my other printer, I organized them around the bed, using as much space and less time as possible. Good Idea, bad thing for my printer. As i usually do Auto Level and Z-Offset measurement once a week and after every disassemble, I thought everything would be alright.
First layer in the middle of the print bed => Nearly excellent
First Layer on the left side => Gross, got a little bit destroyed. Z-Offset was too low on this one.
First layer on the right side => Well.. It stuck. But the Z-Offset was too high on this one.
Same goes for back side => Too low; and Front side => Too high.
I was wondering why this happens as G29 should compensate for that?
http://img4web.com/i/PVDVW9.jpg <-- here you see left part being in the middle of the table (good) and right part on the front side, as more it goes to the front, the lower the z-offset gets.
http://img4web.com/i/QV2UUZ.jpg <-- here is the front part, being on the right side. You can see that the printer didn't really "push" the filament on the bed and instead just laid it down.
http://img4web.com/i/RW8QFA.jpg <-- in this one, on the front part, you can see that the second layer was put on it quite nicely, although I have typical travel marks on the part. But anyway the first layer is ruined, resulting in a bad part...

Okay. Sorry guys that I wrote soooo much. But I tried collecting some things and put them together here.

Thanks for any help you guys can provide, I count on you :)
Greetings and have a nice day,
Joschka

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 17:59:04

2. how many loops?
3. http://hydraraptor.blogspot.tw/....../why-slicers-get......
4. somewhere calibration not perfect, check tension & make sure wires not interference the G29

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:13:25

Hi Clarence :)
Thanks for your fast answer. …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 18:15:24

4. It's possible the screw for z min probe tension & cable collector effect the G29 result correctness.

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:20:11

4. Oh... well yeah, first G29 probings resulted in the printer going crazy in the air because endstop was always open. I cancelled that one, screwed the screw in ('til click) and did Auto-level again. First row good, second row good, in the middle agai …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee
2016-01-04 18:22:00

Not really, if your cable collector interference or mechanical problem still there. It won't help...
Do more check on G29 each movements

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-04 18:25:01

cable collector has no tension on it, that one is for sure. Have to look for that screw again, although nothing seemed odd on that one. If I can't find anything there, are there other options?
Anyway, got any ideas about that second problem? :/

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-05 07:28:40

got a little bit off my to do list today, sorry Clarence Lee .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tDy0IJutgk
Here is a link to the vid from my printer doing auto-level.

Clarence Lee
2016-01-09 00:00:14

Is 2. STL available or even your gcode..
I could verify how I prints

Joschka Friedl
2016-01-11 22:31:12

Hi Clarence,
After long test phase, I found that someting got stuck between the Hotend and quick connector Tube. This resulted in the whole hotend just wobbling around the same style in every print - resulting in that print above. Fixed that now :) Now I just have to get along with that retraction thing in my prints. …… 查看更多


原文網址 James Lin
2015-12-03 23:36:34

看來通常大家幾乎都是花較多時間在調G29+N,
若能精準偵測Bed該有多好呀,否則ATOM是刮花玻璃掉噴頭,這台機器是刮花皮膚切斷手 ~ -_- "

Charlie Ting
2015-12-03 23:56:46

不會燙到嗎?XD

Charlie Ting
2015-12-03 23:59:09

原來是刺青....有趣。

曾俊維
2015-12-04 03:32:24

以前有部電影,忘了,殺蟲的,裡面就有機器手臂幫主角刺青。

Charlie Ting
2015-12-04 03:36:22

Ghost buster?

曾俊維
2015-12-04 03:38:27

星際戰將

Charlie Ting
2015-12-04 04:28:57

哈哈,對

林祐德
2015-12-04 08:40:23

多軸+即時掃描反饋應該會比較好


原文網址 曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:01:49

不知是不是天氣變冷,開始有第一層貼不住的情況,目前把g29再下降個0.02測試中。

李穆
2015-11-23 12:08:30

天氣冷的話升溫降速應該比較有效

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:13:13

有升了也,現在是連開birm都貼不住。

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:13:19

怪怪的。

Charlie Ting
2015-11-23 12:14:36

表面是?口紅、藍膠、ZP?

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:15:01

問一下~我印方型的物件,到有點高度時,四角會翹起,是該開風扇讓他快點冷比較不會翹,還是不該開風扇,我的是zp

李穆
2015-11-23 12:15:12

不開

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:15:21

對啊,我昨天也沒開啊

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:16:27

我用zp板,有加厚0.05,現在來試加0.03就好,看會不會比較貼的住

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:17:34

溫度我升到195了

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:19:38

我在想是不是我的開關有怪怪的,我再做g29看看

陳明谷
2015-11-23 12:24:53

這個可以給你參考一下
我溫度拉到205
高度設0.35 …… 查看更多

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:31:02

說一下,可能是現在要印的料的問題,現在要印點金料,會不會是點金抓不住呢?

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:32:10

可是前兩天也印了一個點金,就可以,還是我的的點金放了幾天在外面,受潮了,才抓不住呢?頭痛啊

陳明谷
2015-11-23 12:33:35

除濕機是好物

李穆
2015-11-23 12:33:42

看有沒有起泡造成暫時斷料

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:37:51

看不出來

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:38:21

不過埔里的空氣超乾的啊,且也沒下雨

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:38:45

庸人自擾

戴士偉
2015-11-23 12:44:38

ZP表面清潔一下看看? 或翻面?

Charlie Ting
2015-11-23 12:54:41

來個照片或影片比較快吧

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:56:57

不知道,現在又貼的住了

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:56:59

xd

曾俊維
2015-11-23 12:57:52

我想八成,因該是昨天換鐵弗龍管時有跑掉吧

廖新弘
2015-11-23 13:00:38

換管或多或少會跑到一點點


原文網址 Birk Binnard
2015-11-20 06:26:49

Firmware 2.03 Z-Adjust weirdness

Note that I recently installed a Zebra Plate on my Atom2 and, as the instructions stated, had to readjust my Z offset because the Zebra Plate is VERY sensitive to the 1st layer's extruder height. After a number of experiments with printing test parts I finally ended up with this statement in my GCode header: G29 Z+0.525 ;auto level

This value of 0.525 resulted in good first layer adhesion and layer depth and I printed a number of parts A-OK. After printing my first good test part I put a ; in front of the above statement since the offset is stored in the motherboard EEPROM.

Then I saw that firmware 2.03 was available; since I was running 2.01 I figured it would be a good idea to catch up and I installed 2.03 with no problems. I looked at the Z-Adjust video and decided to try it since I had never done the paper test procedure before.

My initial trial value was Z+0.3 and that was too tight; I could not move the paper at all after Goto Zero. Next I tried Z+0.4 and that was better, but there was still a fair amount of pressure on the paper when it moved. So I tried Z+0.45 and that seemed right on - the paper moved pretty easily but still maintained contact with the bottom of the hot end.

I figured I was good to go so I tried printing a real part. But the first layer did not extrude at all - it was clear the hot end was too close to the Zebra Plate. So I went back to the Z-adjust procedure and increased it to Z+0.5. This seemed too loose when I did the paper test but I left it anyway. My next print was only slightly better - the 1st layer was barely visible .

At this point I decided to go back to the old way and ran a test part with G29 Z+0.525 ;auto level in the GCode header. This worked well and that's where I am now - of course with that statement commented out.

I'm not sure what conclusion to draw from all this. Perhaps it means the paper test simply doesn't work with Zebra Plates. Perhaps I made some mistake somewhere or left out a key step. At any rate my printer is printing fine; I'll have some more interesting posts tomorrow or the next day.

翻譯年糕

Clarence Lee
2015-11-20 07:45:13

Is it possible to z adjust 0.525? Or 0.52 0.53

Birk Binnard
2015-11-20 13:25:44

If I remember correctly I did try 0.520 and 0.530, but 0.525 was a better choice. I do understand that the steppers may not be capable of making a move as small as 0.005mm; all I can say is 0.525 seemed to work best in my situation.

Clarence Lee
2015-11-20 13:28:16

It’s possible. My branch of the revision might implemented the support of the 0.001mm z offset runtime adjustment.

Clarence Lee
2015-11-20 14:37:51

err, after review code, current via lcd most small scale is 0.01mm. It's possible to add function to implement it.

What is your first layer height?

Birk Binnard
2015-11-20 23:09:21

Well I just had an interesting experience!

When I started to print a new part I turned on the printer, did Auto Home, and began printing. The GCode for the part to print had the G29 Z+0.525 statement commented out. But when the printhead reached the build plate it crashed into the plate and disconnected 4 magnetic arms.

Needless to say I stopped the printer, re-sliced the part with the comment removed from the G28 line, and now the part is printing OK.

This makes me think the results of the G29 command, when executed from a print, is not being stored in the EEPROM. But is this possible? And how to find out? Is there a way to display the vaues stored in the EEPROM?

Clarence Lee
2015-11-21 00:06:01

use pronterface, when connet or M503 displayed the saved array

Birk Binnard
2015-11-21 01:14:16

Thanks Clarence - I don't have Pronterface anymore but I can use SImplify3D to do the M503. I'll post results back here probably tomorrow.

Clarence Lee
2015-11-21 09:03:21

8.184 M500: Store parameters in EEPROM
8.185 M501: Read parameters from EEPROM
8.186 M502: Revert to the default "factory settings."
8.187 M503: Print settings

ref: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

Birk Binnard
2015-11-23 01:30:55

First layer height is 0.250mm; normal layer height is 0.200 mm.


原文網址 Lawrence Lee
2015-11-19 14:04:04

韌體更新 / Firmware Update (for ATOM 2.0)
.

最新韌體 2.0.3 上線囉!控制台中新增自動校正以及調整 Z offset 功能。各位無需再在 Gcode 中另外加入 G29 指令了。

韌體連結: http://www.atom3dp.com/zh/support-ch/
教學連結: http://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-2/#head2

---------------

New Firmware 2.0.3 is now online! New Auto Leveling system and Z offset can now be executed directly from the LCD control panel. G29 in the Gcode is no longer required!

Firmware Download: http://www.atom3dp.com/en/support/
Tutorial: https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer-1-1/#head2

---------------

# firmware # updates

黃俊傑
2015-11-19 14:21:00

5.若噴頭太遠,降低 [ Z-Offset ] 的參數後,重複步驟 3~4.
若噴頭太遠,降低 [ Z-Offset ] 的參數後,重複步驟 3~4.

教學網頁寫錯惹???

Lawrence Lee
2015-11-19 14:29:05

感謝抓bug!

Stanley Chen
2015-11-19 18:41:40

這個超好用的!
大家快下載!

Hawke ChienSheng Liu
2015-11-19 18:57:20

偷用好久了,真的好用,從此擺脫G29機差問題。

廖新弘
2015-11-19 19:15:33

為什麼1.99沒有2.03板可用

片翼之鳶
2015-11-19 19:42:01

控制板不一樣吧

劉宏威
2015-11-19 21:43:40

控制板不會是問題……

總有種一代用戶不太被注重的感覺…

之前一代雷射的韌體大bug很久才修復,
官方也沒有主動給一代用戶任何消息,
還是我自己問才知道bug已經修復了。

我也不諱言,身為一代升級二代的用戶,我對atom蠻失望的。

要知道如果沒有一代用戶,atom哪裡會有現在二代的成功?

Lawrence Lee
2015-11-19 22:07:54

我們還沒改喔~ 在待辦事項中~

林舜順
2015-11-19 22:13:25

可不可以請教一下如何做韌體更新?

Lawrence Lee
2015-11-19 22:16:02

感謝Wells的意見。我們之所以推出1.99 升級套件就是為了延長一代機器的壽命,但是畢竟要將一代完全變成二代還是多少有些難度。你的聲音我們聽到了,請給我一些時間完善這些不足的地方,謝謝!

廖新弘
2015-11-19 22:21:00

翻一下手冊吧,裡面有寫吧

王建傑
2015-11-19 22:24:37

有使用ZP的,需要修改MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 350

李穆
2015-11-19 22:30:43

0. 裝USB驅動:
https://www.facebook.com/....../CDM%20v2.12.00%20WHQL......
1. 裝arduino編譯上傳器:
https://www.arduino.cc/download_handler.php
2. 下載韌體,解壓縮,點兩下Marlin這個檔
3. 看圖說故事
4. 主機面板裡依序按兩個選項:restore failsafe ---> store memory
5. 搞定(還有不懂的請翻寶典)

林舜順
2015-11-19 22:56:05

原本手冊裡的不是很詳細,感謝樓上支援!

蘇子敬
2015-11-20 08:20:17

可以請問為何嗎?

片翼之鳶
2015-11-20 08:21:37

ZP底板會比較高 所以需要拉高噴頭初始高度

蘇子敬
2015-11-20 08:26:40

片翼之鳶 剛看到birk binnard的留言,他用2.03加zp,set z level後,第一層印不出來。就是因為沒有改manual_z_home_pos嗎?

片翼之鳶
2015-11-20 08:28:05

照理說這個參數只是避免你一開始撞噴頭而已...
應該是其他原因吧?

王建傑
2015-11-20 08:53:38

如果不修改,不管z-offset設多少,goto zero都是會撞到噴頭

鄭士豪
2015-11-20 10:03:10

XD更新韌體後,校準跑玩= =我又回到一開始裝好機器的樣子,又開始刮底版...orz(痛苦的循環>"<調整)

Lawrence Lee
2015-11-20 10:31:26

Z offset 設定了嗎?

劉宏威
2015-11-20 10:59:48

加油!!
感謝您的回覆,我只是抒發自己對後勤部分的感觸。
ATOM依然還是表現很不錯,希望以後更好。

鄭士豪
2015-11-20 11:06:31

有~但下檔案一起步就掛刮還蠻深的XD~

鄭士豪
2015-11-20 11:07:20

底板又多新的刀疤~哈哈

黃俊傑
2015-11-20 11:15:41

借問一下? 為啥不每次做G29阿???
每次做不是才能謹慎免除掉某些螺絲鬆掉之類的問題?或是一些硬體類方面的問題?

鄭士豪
2015-11-20 12:03:22

Lawrence Lee 換新韌體那kisslicer內Z-lift跟Z-offset要改設定嗎?還是照自己之前列印的設定不動?

李穆
2015-11-20 12:33:45

[以下方法適用在2.0.2版以前韌體]先用10%跑一遍G29(面板上的AutoLevel),連上電腦後用pronterface打G1 Z2 F8000,再用pronterface的「Z向下0.1」的按鈕慢慢降到快貼板,看一下LCD上顯示的Z值後重新用電腦輸入G29 Z+**再用10%速度跑一遍。(記得要先解決"上蓋太緊"的問題)

李穆
2015-12-06 12:49:04

日本代標
我很開心能幫上忙,祝你新功能爽爽用


原文網址 吳普軒
2015-11-13 14:49:31

請問使用cura的話如果要取消G29那麼z offset要怎麼設定?

Clarence Lee
2015-11-13 15:13:24

自己改gcode開頭...
z offset請改用別的可自訂z offset的韌體或先前也都討論過G29 Z+0.x 存起來替代也是可以的
https://www.facebook.com/groups/atom3dp/permalink/1647126092192346/?comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22O%22%7D

廖新弘
2015-11-13 15:22:22

基本上正式是沒有,測試版才有Z-OFFSET,目前不太好找那個測試版而且要修改一些參數才能用,所以自己寫個簡單G-CODE比較快

吳普軒
2015-11-13 15:26:30

了解了 謝謝

廖新弘
2015-11-13 19:31:26

抱歉我搞錯了,CURA測試版也是沒有Z-offset

Birk Binnard
2015-11-14 01:20:15

This is my GCode header from the Craftware slicer:

G28 ;Home
;G29 Z+0.525 ;auto level

Notice that I have the G29 command commented out. That is because, after performing several experiments with different values, I found that Z+0.525 works well for my printer.

As Clarence has mentioned here several times, the results of the G29 command are stored in the motherboard's EEPROM chip. So there is no need to keep updating it after you have established the proper setting.


原文網址 張哲豫
2015-11-11 16:43:45

各位前輩好,換了一個加熱片,但又出現更詭異的問題。

>> 列印時,噴嘴高低不一,不管如何調整,幾乎都刮玻璃。

由下方照片可看到,我把自動校正的micro switch幾乎調到貼平了,照理講噴嘴與玻璃會距離很遠才對,但結果還是貼玻璃。

經過下列檢察 :

1. 皮帶鬆緊
2. 滑軌滑台螺絲鬆緊
3. 噴嘴上全部的螺絲鬆緊
4. 幫滑軌、關節球上油
5. 調整 G29 + Z 0.45 >> G29 + Z 0.5
6. 確認玻璃不會晃動

經過以上調整跟檢查仍沒有任何改善。

--------------

在機器剛來時,這個功能本來是正常的,但加熱片壞掉以後我有經過下列調整 :

1. 重燒錄韌體,換成官方的2.02
2. 將自動校正 m3 15mm的螺絲換成 m3 10mm 的螺絲, 彈簧相對剪短。做此調整是因為原本15mm的螺絲有時候會碰到玻璃

然後現在就變這樣了。

請問這是什麼問題呢?
我還有什麼地方沒有檢查到呢?

鄭政浤
2015-11-11 16:52:04

你是不是校正機構用錯長度螺絲??
還有你所謂的貼玻璃是指??

張哲豫
2015-11-11 16:52:38

就是噴嘴刮玻璃,把印出來的料都壓得平平的,根本不能印

張哲豫
2015-11-11 16:55:32

我自己改過螺絲跟彈簧了,原本的長到有時候會刮玻璃跟刮料件

鄭政浤
2015-11-11 16:57:23

http://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firstlayer/
你先確認第一步調整好噴頭的螺絲距離
再用官方提供的 KISSlicer設定檔跑一次

張哲豫
2015-11-11 16:58:26

這份提供的校正跟確認步驟都做過了!
我是用官方的300Height的Gcode測試檔~

Yu-Hsuan Hung
2015-11-11 17:02:10

1.第一個是看起來螺絲太短,不確定有沒有問題
2.另一個部分是你G29後是不是沒有提高Z的高度(建議先1或0.8之後每0.05遞減到最佳列印高度)
3.再來你說有重新燒錄程式,是否有做了下面步驟
在上傳完韌體後,請記得到LCD螢幕點選control-> restore failsafe -> store memory,在執行後續的列印工作

張哲豫
2015-11-11 17:05:03

1. 是我自己改過螺絲,將15mm改為10mm,並將螺絲相對長度剪短。
2.我有將官方的300Hieght內的G29由 Z+0.45 改為 Z+0.5
3. 有按照說明書使用燒錄

Yu-Hsuan Hung
2015-11-11 17:11:13

當初我照官方的說明書用Z+0.5也是刮爆
所以是Z軸不夠高(一般可能是機構沒有裝夠精準精準造成),所以才會要先拉高到Z+1確定不會刮到玻璃後再往下調
我第一次使用的時候到Z+0.65才不會刮到
有拆部分機構重新安裝才變成現在是Z+0.45

Yu-Hsuan Hung
2015-11-11 17:11:53

目標是先提高Z到不會刮玻璃到再往下降
只要看第一層列印的成果為主

張哲豫
2015-11-11 17:13:27

剛剛加了1.0,就正常了 ((默
看來真的是不夠高的問題

Yu-Hsuan Hung
2015-11-11 17:15:11

如果時間夠的話可以爬文看大家怎麼裝得夠精準
我有用過彈力繩,最近聽說橡膠榔頭也有用,所以有考慮要不要在重新"整理"機構

鄭政浤
2015-11-11 17:16:41

張哲豫
2015-11-11 17:17:41

夠精準是指自動校正的部分嗎?

Yu-Hsuan Hung
2015-11-11 17:20:16

就是鋁擠裝得準度夠的話,你的列印件的公差也會比較小,目前我
列印5*5CM寬以內公差在15~20條
列印20*20CM寬公差就在0.8~1mm
如果你沒有要列印組裝的東西,或是組裝的東西都是用同一台印的話
公差應該就會還好

張哲豫
2015-11-11 17:25:20

慘,還是有問題,他的噴嘴移動會高低不一
有時高有時低,印出來是有時正常有時懸空 ((默

Yu-Hsuan Hung
2015-11-11 17:27:48

那就是G29校正不平
重新校正

Yu-Hsuan Hung
2015-11-11 17:28:02

校正前把噴頭的料清掉

李穆
2015-11-11 19:36:05

皮帶鬆緊度用吉他調音器APP調整到彈起來約40~50Hz即可

李穆
2015-11-11 19:38:01

校正前確定你的噴頭微動只要用手指輕輕向上頂噴嘴尖端就會聽到觸發聲音才有用,只要需要用力到噴頭會戳到你手指痛就很容易不準

李穆
2015-11-11 19:39:27

另外校準時用旋鈕把速度降到50%內外圈高度差會更小,以上這些大家都討論過N遍了(還曾經是置頂文),相信有爬文應該都會看到

張哲豫
2015-11-11 20:44:13

抱歉..因為FB實在不適合爬,我會去找找3DP的論壇好好爬一次 Orz

Mark Chen
2015-11-11 20:58:59

你壓越深

Mark Chen
2015-11-11 20:59:11

噴頭點玻璃就要點越用力

Mark Chen
2015-11-11 20:59:50

點越用力Z OFFSET就要調的越高 所以你刮玻璃

Mark Chen
2015-11-11 20:59:55

高低不均?

Mark Chen
2015-11-11 21:01:15

如果你有仔細觀察噴頭點玻璃的時候你就知道因為你螺絲鎖到超高 導致連趕要押超用力才可以觸發為動開關 點外圍因為桿子很斜整個球頭可能都微脫離

Mark Chen
2015-11-11 21:01:38

這樣點出來的平面列印的時候就會中間高 但是外圍都刮玻璃

Mark Chen
2015-11-11 21:01:45

下台一鞠躬

Mark Chen
2015-11-11 21:01:47

今天

Mark Chen
2015-11-11 21:01:51

你看說明書了嗎?

鄭政浤
2015-11-11 21:14:58

還好當初有去聽課XD

鄭政浤
2015-11-11 21:15:42

雖然沒印很漂亮
但機器裝兩次都沒問題XD

李穆
2015-11-11 21:16:10

我沒聽課,但是刮花一片玻璃,學費350有便宜XDDDD

廖新弘
2015-11-11 21:34:16

發發牢騷,寶典不是拿來收藏的,是拿來看看的,官網線上也有提供解決方式,為甚麼沒有人想去看跟了解

張哲豫
2015-11-11 21:55:15

我有看說明書喔! 看完說明書,該檢察的檢查完才敢發文詢問。
不過真的是眼殘,把愈緊愈近看成愈緊愈遠,所以才調錯。
一開始我也只調成稍微碰一下就會觸動,但還是有一樣的問題,所以才來問,G29因為第一次調,以為調個0.5就很多了,想不到要調幾乎兩倍才有效果。
新手上路問了很多蠢問題實在抱歉,也謝謝各位前輩的耐心指教!

廖新弘
2015-11-11 22:00:40

只是想說自己動手實際做過,印象最深,我是買1.0版首批那時候資源更少,還不是自己摸索,這東西沒有捷徑,唯有動手才是實在

鄭政浤
2015-11-11 22:08:11

只能說當初設計這機構的人很厲害
有些人會參不透XD

李穆
2015-11-11 22:18:46

其實問類似問題的人不少,不過你運氣比較不好,剛好在大家被問煩了的時候貼文,所以承受了一些悶氣,希望你不要介意,也希望你吸收了經驗之後,能偶爾也回饋一下幫忙回答類似問題,這樣大家的負擔也能降低

陳明谷
2015-11-11 22:58:51

繼續加油吧
你這狀況在過來人認為只是小問題
工作原理搞懂了就會發現…不難

Mark Chen
2015-11-11 23:09:43

張哲豫
2015-11-11 23:11:49

謝謝各位前輩的指教,剛玩不到一個星期,很多新手的蠢問題。之後會繼續努力的,也請各位多多指教 <(_ _)>

陳明谷
2015-11-11 23:23:48

太客氣了
最怕的是有強烈的主觀思想
無法接受其他人提供的意見
不然多聽多試最後都會有答案


原文網址 徐語辰
2015-10-29 21:46:49

請問底盤一邊低一邊高 要怎麼解決呢?

我的G29必須要設到+0.7才不會刮底盤,

但是列印出來還是高的那邊堵住出料,低的那邊又黏不住,

有試過重新鎖底盤、autolevel時放慢到10%,調整上蓋跟微動,

但還是沒有用,autolevel似乎根本沒有校正到底盤傾斜的問題。

請問該怎麼辦呢?

徐語辰
2015-10-29 21:50:01

徐語辰
2015-10-29 21:50:06

徐語辰
2015-10-29 21:50:11

徐語辰
2015-10-29 21:50:15

Charlie Ting
2015-10-29 21:51:36

在底部的鋁條上疊紙片修正高度

廖新弘
2015-10-29 22:01:21

結構先檢查一次,確定三角框是不是有間隙,再來檢查上下三角框之間的距離是不是一樣,玻璃固定是否牢固,這些都是可能造成誤差的原因

李穆
2015-10-29 22:04:10

照片來幾張,不然會抓錯藥

MoMo Yang
2015-10-29 22:06:03

底盤傾斜不該用g29來矯正

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:06:39

Hawke ChienSheng Liu
2015-10-29 22:10:00

順道檢查一下皮帶張力。至少,三條的張力要差不多。不要太緊太鬆。既然你的G29必須要設到+0.7,我建議再張緊些,彈起來至少60Hz。

MoMo Yang
2015-10-29 22:10:54

你現在要釐清的是
1.底盤傾斜
2.上面三角形傾斜
3.都傾斜
能夠重裝是最好的

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:11:59

有甚麼判斷的方法嗎,因為我看整個結構都沒有縫隙

李穆
2015-10-29 22:13:45

結構接合處,軌道,滑車及噴頭也拍一下

廖新弘
2015-10-29 22:14:23

用燈光去照,見光死

MoMo Yang
2015-10-29 22:16:08

Atom雖然是cnc的鋁件,也還是有公差的,我有一個鋁件公差就很大,所以還是要量一下

Charlie Ting
2015-10-29 22:16:33

建議右側鋁條跟玻璃接觸的地方先墊二張A4紙厚度,鎖緊再印看看。

很多問題可以先從有具體反應的點下手,確定知道問題再那裡再去檢查。不然很可能搞半天也不知道到底怎麼了。

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:18:38

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:18:43

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:18:47

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:18:51

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:18:57

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:19:01

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:19:05

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:19:10

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:19:14

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:19:16

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:20:02

底盤有一個鎖件還沒鎖 因為我剛剛在調

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:21:33

問個笨問題,皮帶要怎麼調整張力,我沒找到可以調整的地方

鄭東昇
2015-10-29 22:30:48

我+0.8.....已經印很久了,尺寸也都非常精準,沒什麼問題

廖新弘
2015-10-29 22:35:40

徐語辰 之前有人建議用調吉他調音APP去測量彈皮帶的聲音

徐語辰
2015-10-29 22:52:58

那如果鬆緊不一 該如何調整呢?

廖新弘
2015-10-29 22:57:16

不是有皮帶調整器嗎,在滑車上面那個固定皮帶的那個

李穆
2015-10-29 23:37:52

倒數第2張照片左上三角與鋁擠接合處有縫隙,看能否再裝密合一點;另外噴頭觸發螺絲的防鬆尼龍螺母可以跟螺絲鎖的再緊密一點,縮短長度同時可以避免鬆動;另外導線管這樣擺有可能會拉扯造成觸發受力不均,建議參考官方的手冊圖來配置;噴頭上蓋鬆緊度拍不出來,不過建議稍微拉鬆一些,以食指輕頂就可以頂起上蓋聽到噴頭微動觸發的聲音為準。然後重新作G29(作的時候速度用旋鈕放慢到50%)應該可以得到比較平均的結果

徐語辰
2015-10-29 23:40:56

李穆 感謝

徐語辰
2015-10-29 23:41:29

我看看 感謝

李穆
2015-10-29 23:47:37

另外頂部的三根M5軸鎖太緊了,鋁件都彎掉了

Kevin Chen
2015-10-30 00:18:57

上蓋微動再調鬆一點,調到輕輕一碰就觸發之後重新auto level,那個微動差一點就差很多

徐語辰
2015-10-30 00:19:43

感謝各位,我用了墊紙法、把皮帶調緊,似乎改善很多,測試中


原文網址 劉宏威
2015-10-29 01:14:38

想請問,有沒有其他ATOM1.0升級2.0的前輩跟我有一樣的問題?
小弟裝了雷射模組,換了ATOM 1.x → 2.0.2 升級韌體。
新的版本在ATOM螢幕上是顯示1.21版,而且似乎失去了G29的記錄功能。
選單prepare裡面進料跟退料的選項也消失了。
一些選項變回ATOM 1.0時的用詞。
也就是說多了雷射的功能,但韌體降級回1.0的版本了。
現在我要列印跟雷射都要重新upload韌體進去,
1.21跟2.0版的韌體兩個改來改去相當的麻煩。
官方有計畫會更新韌體嗎?
目前這樣使用上真的相當不方便。

H-m Lin
2015-10-29 01:23:33

ATOM 1.x → 2.0.2 升級韌體

此韌體是用於將您的ATOM1.x升級至ATOM2.0 (含雷射模組套件功能),請使用Arduino軟體上傳此韌體

在上傳完韌體後,請記得到LCD螢幕點選control-> restore failsafe -> store memory,在執行後續的列印工作

有照官方作法使用嗎?

劉宏威
2015-10-29 01:32:52

有的,這些動作都有做。
上傳後螢幕顯示 Atom 1.21r

Coby Huang
2015-10-29 08:27:23

是不是傳錯韌體了???不然不可能出現Atom 1.21

劉宏威
2015-10-29 10:50:44

官方的支援區下載的檔案,
我也覺得1.21很奇怪,
已經重複確認很多次了。
下載下來的壓縮檔檔名就是寫 ATOM 1.2.2 Firmware。
上傳韌體後顯示1.21。
而鐳射模組也確實可以使用。


 

全不選 發文排行