ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 線材相關話題

我很認真的看完英文介紹之後才發現下面有中文XD

updated the offer

Just updated. The machine has to go.

These PLA did not keep in dry environment. I don't think they are in good condition.

Is the machine sold ?

maybe shorten the name will be sooner lol

Yes but no ;o)..... That's too easy ...

Try this first.
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/extrusion-problems-1/#head5

Ah yes, I completely forgot about the PID settings. I have done that before and I know it takes a while.

Unfortunately neither Pronterface nor Simplify3D want to connect to the printer - the connection sends back garbage characters and I get messages like "could be invalid baud rate" and "connection failed". So I'l have to fgure otu what's going on with that first.

I just delete m109 in my g-code and start printing.
And newest firmware is 2.5.

2.5? Where does that come from? I got 2.0.7 from the Atom website. Is there a better place to find it?

And if you delete M109 how does the printer know to not print with a cold hotend?

http://www.atom3dp.com/....../2017/11/ATOM-2.5B-170116.zip

You can use this on 2.0

You just reach temperature and start printing

Thanks for your suggestions; I have some interesting results:
1. Firmware 2.5 did not work for me. I installed it OK and took out the M109 command. When I started the print the printhead started printing about 2 inches above the print bed and the hote nd was not at the proper temperature. No filament was extruded from the hotend.
2. I added an M104 to set the temperature to 215 and then tried to run an AutoLevel (which I had run OK before with 2.0.7), but the printer made a loud buzzing sound and didn't do anything. I took this as my clue to revert to 2.0.7.
3. I reinstalled 2.0.7, performed an AutoLevel , removed the M109, and verified there was an M104 S0215. When the printer started printing no filament came out. The LCD said the temp was something like 67. I took this to mean the hotend had not yet got up to the 215 temp.
4. I restarted the printer and did a warmup to 200. When I started the print this time it did in fact start printing - which it is doing now. I'm printing a string test part and using the same slicer settings I've used in the past the print is showing much more stringing. But it is printing the layers at 185.
5. I don't understand why Arduino can talk to the printer OK, but not Pronterface or Simplify3D.
6. I thought I could use the printer LCD to set PID values by hand, but I looked in the Configuration.h file and there are no defaults there for Atom2. I didn't think it wold be wise to use values from a different printer.

I resolved the serial port connection problem by setting S3D & Pronterface to use a baud rate of 250,000 and the Serial Port driver to a baud rate of 460,000. I have no idea why this solved the connection problem, but it did.

I ran the PID test and go t numbers KP: 17.63, Ki: 1.27, Kd: 61.25. The first 2 were fairly close to what the printer's LCD screen showed, but the last one was far different. At any rate, I stored the updates and did a preheat 200.

I was disappointed to see that the printer could not get the hotend to a temp higher than about 190. But I ran my string test print again, removing the M109 line since I knew the printer could never get to 215.

The print failed shortly after it started with what appears to be a jammed nozzle. I'm thinking the problem may be that the hotend I'm using has a heatsink just above the nozzle (it's like the original Atom 2,0 hotend assembly) and this may be preventing the heater disk from getting the hotend up to desired temperature. So I may go back to using my "newer" hotend which is similar to the current 2.5EX one.

Edit: Yup - if I stop the heatsink fan from running the hotend gets up to 200 quite quickly. Letting the fan go results in the temp goes back down to around 190. Looks like I really will go back to my previous hotend configuration.

Hi! I have had the same issues as you with the 2.0.7 firmware. The temperature fluctuated all time, so I went back to the 2.0.6 firmware

I am going back to 2.06 also because 2.07 does not allow negative Z-Offset values.

2.06 working fine - no need to redo PID values.

i also have problem on heating today, i found out my heater's wire snap.

印三件才500幹麻參加啊XD

當學生的有時就是會被上級指派...更何況我都畢業了XD

換噴頭要多少啊？

不知道沒去修 整個碳化卡扎在裡面了

我只知道這樣沒有500 而且500絕對不構

好的噴頭都不止這些錢了

這學校可能是噴頭製造商XD

高雄邊境的科大？！

就當作免費料玩囉，顆粒多的料改v6 0.6噴頭應該就可以印

阿湯的噴頭一組2500

狂

ATOM還是不要冒險印特殊的料，印一般的PLA ABS就好了，畢竟ATOM比較高貴不是一般的低價列印機可以相提並論

積碳可以考慮用Cool Pull的方法救看看

我都自己拆開用鑽頭磨掉裡面卡的料

便宜的頭隨便磨
貴的頭別這樣幹
內部有刮痕也是對噴嘴很大的損傷
不是只有通不通的問題

茶葉渣pla....XD.....聽起來就很恐怖。

什麼XX渣的 頂多做擠出

蠻酷的欸

印這個，真的是沒事找事作

500..也太小氣

是說茶葉渣線好處在哪?
有茶香?

好處，是讓你的噴頭有殘渣

就廢物再利用的概念

卡齒縫了，渣渣

有種製造更多廢物的感覺...

這個還在賣？難用到不行，問題ㄧ堆的產品。

真的有茶葉香 但好像很一般那種 應該要道地日月潭紅茶的

卡菜渣

你知道的就是學術單位為了要搞一堆計畫案要拿政府錢 再來搞個產學合作或是新創出來騙錢用的

有沒有落葉劑啊！！

初期測試是我們公司幫他們做的

Josh Hsiao 哈酷喔 現在丟去9間大學要收集退貨單吧

用1.0噴頭印喇～
什麼渣都岀來了～

塞滿渣

沒打電話去教育部！！

可以送修就好，不需要壞了就要整組換新

對哦～整捲都茶葉渣～
根本就是印渣

我有3百多顆1.0噴頭！
需要就支援你幾顆～

要5.0的

麥麥 這直接拿熱熔膠那把來會不會比較快....

麥麥 哈哈哈哈哈哈哈哈～
5.0可就剩熱溶膠料了

500美金都不夠你修機器啦

可以泡茶嗎？

印個茶杯.......加點熱水 茶就泡好了

其實我覺得茶葉渣並非不可行
之前看到國外有使用植物纖維的線材
說法是可以增強成品強度
但又不會像碳纖一樣會損壞噴嘴
也許是製程還不到位吧?
我比較好奇製造廠是否自己有用過這種線印製出一定品質的成品?
如果沒有還要人家用就是討打了

此類材料很難穩定的印出成品，層與層的接合很差，廠商說在實驗室的作法，就是把材料乾燥後磨到奈米顆粒（我是不認為有磨到這麼細）的大小，再混入pla ，類似產品還有用咖啡粉（這個比較能成型但接合一樣不行）。

https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/matte-fiber-htpla
外國植物纖維線材

這個你不死，也剩半條命！！

可惡 想買

等勇者來測

質感不錯呢

他們自己有機器，應該沒印吧！！

堆肥貢獻比較大

印的順的話，表面效果蠻特別的。

我目前常使用220度去印PETG，如果用MK2撐不久，MK3至少比較撐的比較久，效果比較好

請問MK2 & MK3是什麼意思？

那是原廠的代號，MK2是2.0版的噴頭，MK3是2.5版噴頭

了解，謝謝

TPU溫度可以試著再提高一點

回抽速度跟長度太多了

回抽要關掉

如果常用軟料，建議還是改擠料機比較好

tensor processing unit

我已維

初始層厚太高了，最好是噴頭口徑的一半，這還需配合妳機器的玻璃底板的水平校正後的補正

不要開風扇，水平校正要跑完，不能沒落點就飛起來，飛起來表示感應裝置被風扇或螺絲卡住，有熱床就不用塗口紅膠了，70度應該超緊

順便請教一下
最近列印也是發現關閉風扇 翹邊問題就沒了
目前設定是超過 20mm高度後才開啟風扇
想請問風扇大部分開啟時機是??

這要你自己去抓料的融化(有黏性)到冷卻(硬化無黏性)的時間關係 , 風扇過強會導致料剛出噴頭就冷卻硬化了

了解

我最近很常印黑色PLA
噴頭200度、熱床60度，然後印之前用酒精把玻璃擦乾淨。
我遇到的狀況是印之前玻璃沒擦乾淨的話就會有翹曲的情況，提供給妳參考看看。

謝謝分享，好像黑色跟白色的PLA列印參數要調整，我後來把熱床調低到60度，印的速度放慢到20，翹曲狀況有解決了，只是有些小地方印的不是很漂亮

ah... 就BUG 用別套比較快！ 別浪費時間了...

cura換成15.04.6吧 新版本都會有回抽問題

? ? ?
那主要擠出馬達有時跑左邊有時跑右邊那也是BUG？

https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases

所以我說那個簡易教學文呢？ XD

它比KISSlicer簡單得多、比Cura 2/3要簡潔很多，適合有一點基礎的人。

好久沒有用這套，回去來研究看看