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ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 線材相關話題

原文網址 謝政霖
2017-09-16 19:54:08

有人用過esun的abs線嗎?
用atom印,怎麼印怎麼爛,氣到腦充血...
印完送我一坨##。標示上的溫度都試過了...火 ? ⋯⋯

許阿瑋
2017-09-16 21:45:53

有熱床嗎?

王志欣
2017-09-16 22:51:07

我印ABS是温度230......熱床110 給你參考

謝政霖
2017-09-16 23:17:56

有熱床~各種溫度都試過了~重點是這個牌子非常容易堵噴頭


原文網址 Dan Salvador
2017-09-14 20:21:36

TESLA PETG FILAMENT : 640mm height , 200micron layer height printed with ATOM2.5EX (2 body parts + 2 handle parts + top part ) , design by Dan Salvador ☺

Get Tesla Filament here :
https://www.tesla-filament.com/
20% discount for Atom group members
type "ATOM" in the coupon code

翻譯年糕

Dan Salvador
2017-09-15 03:02:00

Dan Salvador
2017-09-15 03:02:08

Party ? on

Ilan Hale
2017-09-16 02:37:03

Ilan Hale
2017-09-16 02:37:06

Amazing


原文網址 Brues Wu
2017-09-13 15:32:53

今天特來分享及感謝 Medium2 Studio 庸貳設計 無私分享的太空艙保溫罩,拿到手已經有一段時間了,這幾天終於把它裝上Arom
Atom 一直在吃ABS料,這段時間沒太空艙之前我都是把機器擺在衣櫥架裡並使用衣櫥布整個套住架子,許些天前就在日夜不休的操勞及悶熱環境下Atom終於中暑失步惹,1X小時的樣品毀在最後1小時,整個位移約6mm,當下決定立即停機找時間換8729驅動、保養跟裝太空艙。
這兩三天來測試整個放陽臺,有保溫罩後除了列印區域裡保持熱場,其餘均能有較低的環境溫度對流冷卻,真的是要印ABS的輔助神器
私心希望有後續幕資版本造福痛友們

題外話:高雄上台北取朋友先幫忙待領的保溫罩時,因有3套在場,我似乎正面裝門把那一片取錯了,孔位不同,壓克力件的轉軸及門把孔是自行鑽孔的,我已隨手改磁吸固定零件,所以與原版稍有不同!

Brues Wu
2017-09-13 15:36:45

這是自己隨手畫的.. 磁吸固定件.. 無法有原版那樣的一體性

Brues Wu
2017-09-13 15:36:56

梁琄
2017-09-13 15:51:18


原文網址 梁琄
2017-09-12 16:14:32

cura 2.7 測試,好像比較沒豆豆
列印溫度190
atom 黑色PLA
層高0.1

Genu Wu
2017-09-12 16:27:20

很不賴

Stanley Chen
2017-09-12 17:30:07

不科學的光澤!

Chia-yin Chen
2017-09-12 19:54:08

這顆頭,好像有看過!!


原文網址 Wangta Liu
2017-09-12 12:55:15

PC碳纖維, kisslicer, 噴頭0.4, 0.1層厚,230度列印,熱床90度,感覺不錯

李大淳
2017-09-12 13:47:00

看起來是M12的,如果最小的話是可以到多少呢?我測試M5、6失敗

Roger Lin
2017-09-12 14:01:25

王榮達
2017-09-12 20:27:40

請問,這線材何處買?


原文網址 Jason Hu
2017-09-11 01:03:40

請教各位前輩,
我今天在列印雙進料測試檔時,大概印了5mm高左右換料柱就脫離載台了,拿起換料柱看底部有點翹曲。

請問像這樣即使開著熱床(印之前有用酒精擦拭過玻璃表面),模型仍黏不牢,
是需要調整什麼參數呢?

(熱床溫度為70度,兩線材皆為PLA,一為原廠白色,一為菲力美黑色)

Bruce Chuang
2017-09-11 01:39:01

單印黑色菲力美是不是就黏不緊了?

Dennis Chen
2017-09-11 08:15:26

我這幾天調熱床55度,用原廠料一樣黏得很緊。看是不是調平的不夠,或是z offset太高了,也可以放慢第一層速度,開brim也有幫助


原文網址 チェン 幸せな
2017-09-10 23:30:42

新型態->米粉支撐
PLA炫光銅+HIPS支撐
CURA15.04切片
0.1層高
200度
# 效果有出來不錯不錯


原文網址 チェン 幸せな
2017-09-06 17:07:36

一週間都在印同樣的東西,然後無數次撞車,拆了好幾次噴頭,昨晚決定同切片檔案放慢速度,終於找到兇手了.
# 高速列印測試
# PLA加HIPS支撐
# 該慢還是要慢
# 經不起意外

陳維德
2017-09-06 17:39:11

用webcam 錄起來不就可以知是哪的問題了嗎

蘇子敬
2017-09-06 18:10:15

請問你的速度開多少?


原文網址 林建榮
2017-09-05 08:56:22

請問各位大大, 有沒有推薦賣線材的網站, 想買 ABS 及水溶性線材或者是那一個牌子用起來不錯?


原文網址 Fabio Hasseck
2017-09-04 03:44:13

:( my hotend is blocked..
Had several great black PLA prints, 1 failed print with white PLA and PVA (failed due to PVA being grinded way too fast inside the extruder despite retraction speed being 30 mm/s) and another successful print with white PLA.
Then I tried another print with the white PLA but only the skirt was extruded, after that it did not extrude at all.. what can I do?

翻譯年糕

黃俊傑
2017-09-04 14:27:29

try replace the PTFE tube inside nozzle.
And try clean the nozzle with smallest atom tool kit.

Birk Binnard
2017-09-06 09:30:30

I've had this problem several times. The quickest, easiest way I've found to fix it is to vaporize everything inside the hotend with a propane torch. To do this you have to completely disassemble the hotend, and that means cutting one of the thermistor wires (which you have to re-solder later on.)

When you have the hotend completely taken apart hold it with pliers and heat it with a propane torch. The hotend will turn orange, red, and then blue in the area you are heating. You'll probably see some smoke and maybe even some flame come out of the top. This is the crystallized filament inside being vaporized,

When all the smoke etc. stops just let the hotend cool off. I've even dunked it in water to speed up the process. After it's cool just reassemble everything. I can do the whole job in about 40 minutes now, but I've had a fair amount of practice.

During disassembly/reassembly be careful of the wires coming from the side blowing fans. If these break close to the fan casing you won't be able to re-solder them, and replacement fans themselves are difficult to find.


 

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