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原文網址 劉柏辰 2019-01-24 01:05:51
雖然是沒有關係的東西，但是還是想問一下。 每個噴頭移動或是換下層時都會有料擠出來，以至於下層疊上去有前面料的痕跡我回抽都全開了這個有解嗎？ (材料Pla)
Shih-Yen Lo 2019-01-24 01:16:55
kisslicer 有個功能是可以在移動時把噴頭抬高，或許有幫助
廖新弘 2019-01-24 10:10:10
參數要貼出來給大家參考，不然怎麼知道可能問題在那裡
劉柏辰 2019-01-24 11:09:45
抱歉抱歉附上參數
Hawke ChienSheng Liu 2019-01-25 00:18:18
調整一下梳理模式。
原文網址 劉柏辰 2019-01-18 16:39:06
我想要請教大家關於水波紋的問題
我用的是ATOM2.5EX機台在印0.2層厚沒有明顯水波紋 ,但是換印0.1時發現一整個戒指都是水波紋 (可能這個料比較敏感這是鑄造用線材, 在印PLA或是ABS並沒有這樣的情形)
我上網找了一下資料他說水波紋主要的原因如下: 1、列印速度過快 過快的列印速度，會導致列印頭在突然改變方向，或轉彎時震動；可以嘗試降低列印速度； 2、固件加速度 加速度是震動及波紋問題的主要因素，可以嘗試將加速度調低，這會使列印頭在轉彎或改變方向時更緩和，從而減少震動及波紋； 3、機械原因 如果上述都沒有解決這個問題，那麼你應該檢查機械造成震動的原因。例如：可能有鬆動的螺絲或支架損壞。建議你在印表機運行的時候仔細觀察是哪個地方產生的震動，嘗試解決這個震動源，大多數人最終解決波紋問題都是在機械方面找到原因。
我跟著找問題: 1.列印速度過快,但是我調低反而更明顯(越變越立體)調高超過50就有跟30一樣的水波紋沒有改善 2.固件加速度:我是用CURA,看了一下加速度並沒有開 3.機械問題:機械問題:在運作的時候我用手碰機台感受震動,是噴頭在接觸印的東西時會有些微的震動,空跑感覺不出來震動
請問還有能改善的地方嗎?沒有我就要嘗試在檢查機械或換濾波器之類的了(或是都只印0.2)...
原文網址 劉柏辰 2019-01-14 21:15:32
(賣家說這是線的問題,會再補寄一捲期待^^) 卡關了,今天拿了NEXT類蠟線材一直印不出來 在對方上班之前想要上來問問大家有甚麼想法 也不知道是料問題還是我那個地方沒有注意到 一開始在拆包裝玩一下它的線發現它的線很脆 兩隻手指頭能扳斷的那種, 我想都真空包裝了應該可以試試 我先是溫度的調整 他在購買上面寫說 直驅進料溫度165~180 長程進料180~195度 我自己是都感覺線都熱熔再一起, 但是調太低 線稍微卡住 進料齒輪就會把線夾斷(線真的很脆弱) 所以調165應該是能調整的最低溫了 開風扇當然要開 開了有比較好一點 還有就是就算有熱床也要上口紅膠才黏得住 研磨的感覺還不錯真的很像蠟很好磨 現在正在試速度跑快一點有沒有幫助 再給這個料一點機會, 不行我就要換料或是把PLA的拿去灌模了
P.S.今天要拔線的時候線直接斷在鐵氟龍管理面, 明明Atom才幫我裝好的又變成一隻管再跑真是抱歉
麥麥 2019-01-15 12:30:57
類蠟的線材，應該不是脆的，如果有任何問題，歡迎與我討論！
陳威翔 2019-01-15 13:14:00
脆的一折就斷一般不是都受潮?
原文網址 陳永慶 2019-01-12 10:00:10
第一次挑戰PVAxPETG 目前看起來還算順利
陳永慶 2019-01-12 10:24:30
才說順利就堵頭了，拆開清一下重新再來
Chen Scott 2019-01-12 10:25:02
PVA很難搞定的
陳永慶 2019-01-12 10:25:05
列印溫度220度看起來勉強可以
陳永慶 2019-01-12 10:27:53
真的不行的話就要想辦法去弄有雙噴頭的機器
陳永慶 2019-01-12 22:37:20
結果第一版還是失敗了，泡水之後PETG有幾層會分離 這次放慢列印速度跟降低風扇比例再試看看
陳永慶 2019-01-14 08:23:25
調整參數再來一發，如果這卷PVA燒完還是搞不定我就放棄了
陳永慶 2019-01-14 08:27:54
泡水之後，還是有混到，洗料已經開到120了
陳永慶 2019-01-16 21:38:55
看來單一噴頭混料的問題應該是無解，或是要考慮非常大的洗料塔，泡水後在PETG的層跟層中間仍然會有PVA出現，稍微用力就會散開
Genu Wu 2019-01-21 18:56:21
期待ATOM的雙噴(敲碗)
原文網址 Yohann Toutain 2019-01-12 06:18:24
Hello Everyone.
I need your help about my project of Neutron 3d printer. The configuration of my mother board in Marlin is:RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan). Here is my problem: i can't move the X and Y axis when i go to Prepare -> Auto Home, only the Z axis move. When i go to Prepare -> Move axis and choose a length for the X or Y axis, only the Z axis move. What i have doing wrong??
Yohann Toutain 2019-01-19 07:18:39
I have found the problem, my Ramps was defective...
原文網址 胡博凱 2019-01-09 14:12:25
請教一下各位前輩 小弟我昨天第一次試印ABS 結果翹曲的很嚴重 我除了把溫度提升到240度以外 其他的參數都沒有動 請問這樣設定有什麼還需要改的嗎？
陳維德 2019-01-09 14:14:23
熱床90度以上,還要保溫,不然沒改性過的ABS ,不是翹就是裂
Tzu-Hsien Chang 2019-01-09 14:54:43
ABS熱床跟熱場是必要的
Kevin Lan 2019-01-10 08:49:44
不是有熱床就可以了, 還要保溫才行. ATOM印PLA跟PETG就好了.
原文網址 Chan Yen Fen 2019-01-07 13:25:12
售ATOM 2.0自組機
價格：15000
新北淡水自取
含組裝剩下的零件、pla紅（全新）黑白三卷、底座膠帶（剩不多）、官方提供的說明書pdf檔 剛出的時候所購買，全部實際使用時間約一年 今年暑假已整理過，照片有附上我印的一些怪東西 動作正常，韌體已更新。噴頭有處理過堵塞問題所以有使用痕跡。運送過程的碰撞關係可能需要自行在校調一下。
其他疑問請私訊詳談
羅丞慧 2019-01-25 14:41:39
請問還有貨嗎？
原文網址 Yinka Alade 2019-01-02 09:43:58
Hi, I have a weird issue. My hotend heats up to 240 degrees fast and just fine when it is by itself. Once I place the hotend into the black hotend assembly it heats up slowly and never passes 200 degrees. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Thanks for your time
Hugo Lopez Uria 2019-01-02 14:48:03
Is the ceramic heater plate working fine? I would try with another New
原文網址 Moko Jenson Huang 2018-12-30 23:08:46
Rubik cube robot solver 魔術方塊機器手臂
參考來源 http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=271827.0
自己重新設計了手臂機構 用阿騰打印 stl https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3322808
pc版本測試完成 這個作者也有手機版本 但是還沒試成功... >_< 有興趣的歡迎一起研究研究討論 ? https://youtu.be/O8mV_Y_DHa0
James Lin 2018-12-31 10:04:12
強~
原文網址 Birk Binnard 2018-12-28 03:24:16
Has my Atom2 Motherboard gone crazy?
When I issue a Home command from the control panel the X & Y columns do the right thing, but the Z column moves down about 1 CM total. The video shows this. The same thing happens happens when I use the Home All command from the S3D Machine Control panel.
However, if I sends command from S3D to move up or down they work OK. The X, Y, and Z columns also move correctly on an individual basis. So I think the steppers are all working OK.
I tried Reload FailSafe and that did not change anything.
Could this be caused by a short in the Z Limit switch or wiring? I've got a replacement limit switch I can swap in if necessary. Or should I try reloading the firmware?
黃震桀 2018-12-28 03:34:08
check Button line use Electric meter and motherboard hole maybe just with ease
Birk Binnard 2018-12-28 04:52:32
Reloading firmware did not help. I swapped stepper controller circuit boards between 2nd extruder (which I know works but don't use) and Z stepper - no change in behavior. Found problem II hope) : Motherboard is not getting signal from Z-Min endstop. Must have broken wire someplace.
Justin Nardone 2018-12-28 06:55:17
Shouldn’t the end stop it be plugged into the Z Max socket on the Atom board?
Birk Binnard 2018-12-28 07:33:40
Yes, and it is. But I've unplugged both wires from the motherboard and connected them to a multimeter. The meter reads nothing when the end stop is depressed. So either the end stop itself is bad or there's a broken wire somewhere. What' confusing to me is why that kind of problem would produce the results shown in the video. I would guess the Z-axis would just crash into the top of the rail and keep trying to go up. But this is not what happens at all.
Birk Binnard 2018-12-28 08:17:05
I hooked up an extra switch to the Z-Max motherboard connectors using it's own wires. It works OK. So it's either the original switch or the wires between it and the motherboard that is bad. I'll try using this switch on the Z columns to see if that fixes the Home issue.
Birk Binnard 2018-12-28 09:02:28
The new switch and wires work OK. Now I have to figure out if the original problem is bad wiring or a bad switch.
Justin Nardone 2018-12-28 12:05:44
If the switch is wired NC (normally closed) that is exactly the behavior you should get. That prevents the motor from moving up in a homing situation. I.e if a wire or the switch is broken with a NC setup the motor won’t smash against the top of the printer and potentially damage it. If you have a Normally Open system with a broken wire the system won’t know either way and would hit the end of travel.
Birk Binnard 2018-12-28 13:26:47
Atom doesn't tell us if the switches are NC or NO. My guess is NO. But in either case I still have to figure out if it's the switch or wiring that's bad. I'm hoping it's the switch because I don't think it's possible to replace the wiring without disassembling 1/3 of the printer.
Ya Hsuan Wu 2018-12-29 02:32:55
you can try to Restore memory & run Auto calibration & auto level
Birk Binnard 2018-12-29 03:07:54
Surprisingly the problem was a bad micro-switch. This was fortuitous because I was able to use the existing wires. It was a bit tricky splicing in the leads from the new switch, but I was able to do it without breaking anything else.
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