ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 線材相關話題

Birk Binnard this makes me curious. Try send me the file. I would love to look at in my 3d setup. I think you have more than one surface in the buttom.

Maybe find out the best temperature for this filament could help the problem.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:282520/#instructions
BTW, layer 0.15, 0.1 event 0.05mm worth a try for the beautiful detail. ;p

Andre - I'm sorry but I have deleted the STL file and have only the GCode left - so we will never know what actually happened. However, I have just finished re-defining how the part is made and I now have the inside surface joined with only the insid …… 查看更多

Andre - I forgot that I had saved the STL file from the part you looked at on a cloud drive. I also put up there my "fixed" version of the part Here is the URL for both. The fixed one is called thermos.stl:

http://1drv.ms/1GDCLSZ …… 查看更多

Finished slice this thermos.stl on Kisslicer 1.5 Beta 2.2
Peak memory usage is about 3.5GB
bottom is about 6.2mm …… 查看更多

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:851525
remixed 245~190 version

Hi Clarence. I have the same version of Kisslicer as you do, and when I sliced thermos.stl I get strange results. My key parameters are 0.2mm layer thickness, Num loops = 3, Extrusion width = 0.38, Skin Thickness = 2 mm, and Infill = Vase.

Here are th …… 查看更多

Why infill vase or hollow? I think slicer did them right. But for this stl, it should be infill at least 10? Check the start of my gcode, you can found the slicer setting there for reference.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18672
Check this stl, I think this kind of the model design would need to use infill=vase .
Suggest to design like that, a solid cylinder. …… 查看更多

Clarence = thanks for your comments. Because I started designing models before I ever got a printer I had to guess how to do it. At the time it seemed to me that a vase or bowl type part should have an inside and an outside so it would have sufficient …… 查看更多

Possible solution:
1.use a much bigger mouse ear
2. consider to turn off the M106 controllered cooling fan(set a very high fan z on kisslicer) since it's a large object. Should be fine without cooling. …… 查看更多

Simple
De l'abs melanger a de l'acétone pour obtenir un jus.
En suite prendre un chiffon et en mettre sur le plateau. …… 查看更多

Ludovic: merci beaucoup!

De rien
Comment as tu acheté une atom et ou.
J'aimerais en acheter une une. …… 查看更多

Ludovic: I am in the US and was included in the Atom2 "Early Adopter" program. That means I was able to get an Atom2 before they became available for order in the US. People in Taiwan and (I think) in Japan can get Atom2 now, but not anyone else.

I …… 查看更多

Birk - perhaps try applying a thicker layer of gluestick, different gluestick brand or a stronger one. Also try waiting a bit for the gluestick to "dry" first

I can assure both english manuals will be much more improved in terms of translation. (The draft version you received was quite literally a draft) Extra details from suggestions will be added. Thank you …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard here is a link on the print bed adhesion issues. http://reprap.org/wiki/Bed_material
The fool proof solution if everything else fails I found to be brown paper packaging tape with UHU gluestick on top. I us this solution on very large objects with corners. I never fails! Oh, and no need for heated bed.

Thanks Andre - I've been doing some reading on the subject myself ,and the general consensus seems to be that 3M blue painter's tape on a cold bed works about as well as anything. The reason given is that there is wax (or something) in the tape that m …… 查看更多

Birk Binnard try and send my your g-code for the heart box that troubles you and I will test it with my setup.

Large area object test:
http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/62187225

Clarence - yes, the Geckotek test #4 at about 45:00 is exactly what I am talking about. What did you do to solve this?

Andre - thanks for your help with this.Here is the link to download the box GCode. It includes mouse ears twice the size of those shown on the previous photo.

http://1drv.ms/1S1tuIN …… 查看更多

I think previous few suggestion I post ed, each of them is a possible solution. Since almost all I tested before and proved works.
Geckotek plate is a special plate design by geckotek3d.com for PLA without glue & heatbed. I just get it about a week. St …… 查看更多

This corner might be a little not flat enough.
If it's not geckotek plate. another tips I never tried but heard it works is use super glue on the corner during printing.
I printed square box about 10x10cm before a few times. It's really hard to fight with at least one corner might warp. Sometimes I still thinking if it's round corner might be helpful?

Has anyone tried kisslicer's brim with the mouse ears?

Here is a picture of how my ball heads looked before and after refurbishment.

how did you do the rechromig (galvanising)?

Hi Harry Cayne i placed one ball head at a time in a hand drill and used grit 1200 sandpaper to remove the old chrome. Then i polished it with two kinds of wax based polish. That was it. It really works well still after lots and lots of printing. I also use a small amount of teflon grease on the heads.

ah ok thanks, so you made a nice polishing there no electroplating involved

by the way what software are you using ?

for 3D printing ?

I mainly use Kisslicer and Slic3r, but I have started using CraftWare again and it really works very well. Kiss is very allround and works well. Slic3r is very good for making seamless single walled objects like vases etc.

Did you have problems with the ball head finish?

no not yet I'm a brand new user, but I've just realised that Craftware is hungarian and I am hungarian so I would be happy if this would be a useful software for us !

nice to hear that you are using Craftware too

Ha, that is funny. Go Hungary!

ks的時間很不準

KISSlicer的時間很準，是Marlin配RAMPS1.4系統配Delta型態的印表機，速度不準。
印外圍很慢，印中心很快...

所以滑軌是等速度的，造成噴嘴中間速度快，外圍速度慢?

Maybe, since different color might got different formula .
Looks like warping.
How about disable cooling fan?(Set the Fan z height to higher value, or toggle the fan speed to 0)
Add Brim Dia to 5 or 10 mm

Birk Binnard I got this problem a lot with clear pla. The solution is to use brown paper packaging tape. With gluestick on top. The gluestick has to dry til unsticky, but no longer than an hour. That ill do the job!

Use hair dryer to increase gluestick dry speed is possible.
BTW, try to heat up the glass plate might be another solution.
I tried pet warmer stick under glass before I installed a real heatbed.
Actually around 40 celsius works pretty well on preventing warping.

Clarence - I did try the hairdryer on the glass plate, but that did not help. However, I do like your idea of drying out the glue once it is on the plate. I did notice that when the warped piece lifted off the glass it had strands if glue connecting i t with the glass, as though the glue had melted. So if this is actually what happened drying it beforehand just might be the key.

I'll post results tomorrow.

Andre - Yes, I've read about the packing tape approach. Frankly this does not strike me as very appealing because it's not a "neat and clean" solution. Plus, what about the thickness of the tape? I presume I'd have to apply the tape to the glass and then re-do Auto-Home to recalibrate the printer firmware. And then undo all that when I go back to a different color.

I'll try this if all else fails, but hopefully I can find a simpler solution.

I remember someone once told me that a heated bed was something the Atom2 team is working on, but it's not clear to me how that would be added to the current system.

Birk Binnard actually I have been experimenting with different "clean" solutions and the best one I have come up with is the print bed surface from bq witbox. With this one you get a really good bond, however it is not without problems. Bonding is real ly good, but with really troublesome print jobs (100% infill, long objects, etc.) then the tape + glue is the only thing I have found to do the job. I know Velleman makes a "clean" print bed surface too, but havent tried it yet. There is one other issue that has to do with the auto alignment of the ATOM2.0. On rare occations the alignment fails and plunges the nozzle setup into the print bed. It doesnt harm the nozzle, but the bed if anything else than glas/glue, gets a beeting! I have tried this two times without any good reason. Oh, and you dont need to do any fiddeling behind the scenes with the tape, just print like it was glass/glue.

I am currently using heatbed 60C + a normal glass without glue/tape.
It works pretty well with brim for large object. (small one might even don't need a brim)
http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/60856695

另附上Kisslice設定:

wipe我不太熟..通常看到都2 or 3 ?
懷疑有gap的話就拆噴頭檢查吧...
一方面確認有沒有加熱過頭過造成ptfe管變質 …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee wipe 我也不懂。官方的參考值是6-6-7所以就沒去動它。請問ATOM 2的噴頭可拆嗎? 不知有沒有攻略可以參考? 怕拆壞了。喉管溫度40度，散熱片大概40~50度用接觸式儀器量的。之前上到40~50出料不順(感覺接不上)所以才降速。所以說，料卡成一個環狀這樣是不正常的嗎?

這是果...
成因比較難猜...
但就是期望不要因為連續回抽造成卡在那... …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee 了解。所以說，設定6mm，連續回抽會卡料是異常囉? 另外，拆了噴頭後，要如何確認coldend的冷卻效率? 是熱效率有問題還是冷效率有問題呢? 之前降速是 Mark Chen 教我的，降了之後(尤其第一層)順利很多。以前都以為可以一檔到底的...現在不強求了。現在就看連續回抽容易卡料怎麼解了?

回抽我也有看人到8mm(假設限在都是120mm/s回抽速度)
其實這要看你的管長等變數而定
先確認兩個快速接頭的地方回抽時會不會有上下凍得現象？ …… 查看更多

通常要加熱噴頭狀態下,ptfe管比較好取出

Clarence Lee 感謝。方向更清楚了。就看我接下來有沒有勇氣拆噴頭了。:)
快速接頭是有上下動的情況(尤其是馬達那邊的)，我還沒固定它是因為覺得即使它動也是管子動，料線回抽的長度並沒有受到影响。同樣我也不了解，為何管長會影响回抽設定? 在馬達回抽料線長度沒有誤差的前題下，管長和管子鬆動應該不是變因，不是嗎?

拆裝噴頭是遲早的試煉... XD
總是會有機會要清理保養的...

管子有彈性..本身平常推料就可以多推一些長度了...
面對這種bowden架構的PTFE管..越長回抽誤差越大... 也可能需要相對較長的回抽距離才會真的抽到噴頭內..不然只是把剛剛在管內造出的長度抽回而已...
一方面這管子大約是內徑2mm,線材是1.75mm左右..所以是有空間可以跑得... …… 查看更多

Clarence Lee 哦... 有點可以想像管長的影响了。就是管子內寬較料線寬，所以料線在管內的長度會因擠壓等不同情況而不同，進而導致回抽設定每台機器都不太一樣。嗯嗯嗯.... 有種頓時開悟了的感覺..... :)

又重印了一次，這次成功了。貼個圖給大家鑑定一下。

強!!

Here.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/atom3dp/1596560747248881/

Thanks Wells, I will get my printer busy making that part.

Excellent results:

That blade is very sharp, probably need a sheath for better safety....

I agree. I normally keep the blade in its plastic cover, but just used it alone for this quick photo.

thanks for sharing .