ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 韌體相關話題

Try this first.
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/extrusion-problems-1/#head5

Ah yes, I completely forgot about the PID settings. I have done that before and I know it takes a while.

Unfortunately neither Pronterface nor Simplify3D want to connect to the printer - the connection sends back garbage characters and I get messages like "could be invalid baud rate" and "connection failed". So I'l have to fgure otu what's going on with that first.

I just delete m109 in my g-code and start printing.
And newest firmware is 2.5.

2.5? Where does that come from? I got 2.0.7 from the Atom website. Is there a better place to find it?

And if you delete M109 how does the printer know to not print with a cold hotend?

http://www.atom3dp.com/....../2017/11/ATOM-2.5B-170116.zip

You can use this on 2.0

You just reach temperature and start printing

Thanks for your suggestions; I have some interesting results:
1. Firmware 2.5 did not work for me. I installed it OK and took out the M109 command. When I started the print the printhead started printing about 2 inches above the print bed and the hote nd was not at the proper temperature. No filament was extruded from the hotend.
2. I added an M104 to set the temperature to 215 and then tried to run an AutoLevel (which I had run OK before with 2.0.7), but the printer made a loud buzzing sound and didn't do anything. I took this as my clue to revert to 2.0.7.
3. I reinstalled 2.0.7, performed an AutoLevel , removed the M109, and verified there was an M104 S0215. When the printer started printing no filament came out. The LCD said the temp was something like 67. I took this to mean the hotend had not yet got up to the 215 temp.
4. I restarted the printer and did a warmup to 200. When I started the print this time it did in fact start printing - which it is doing now. I'm printing a string test part and using the same slicer settings I've used in the past the print is showing much more stringing. But it is printing the layers at 185.
5. I don't understand why Arduino can talk to the printer OK, but not Pronterface or Simplify3D.
6. I thought I could use the printer LCD to set PID values by hand, but I looked in the Configuration.h file and there are no defaults there for Atom2. I didn't think it wold be wise to use values from a different printer.

I resolved the serial port connection problem by setting S3D & Pronterface to use a baud rate of 250,000 and the Serial Port driver to a baud rate of 460,000. I have no idea why this solved the connection problem, but it did.

I ran the PID test and go t numbers KP: 17.63, Ki: 1.27, Kd: 61.25. The first 2 were fairly close to what the printer's LCD screen showed, but the last one was far different. At any rate, I stored the updates and did a preheat 200.

I was disappointed to see that the printer could not get the hotend to a temp higher than about 190. But I ran my string test print again, removing the M109 line since I knew the printer could never get to 215.

The print failed shortly after it started with what appears to be a jammed nozzle. I'm thinking the problem may be that the hotend I'm using has a heatsink just above the nozzle (it's like the original Atom 2,0 hotend assembly) and this may be preventing the heater disk from getting the hotend up to desired temperature. So I may go back to using my "newer" hotend which is similar to the current 2.5EX one.

Edit: Yup - if I stop the heatsink fan from running the hotend gets up to 200 quite quickly. Letting the fan go results in the temp goes back down to around 190. Looks like I really will go back to my previous hotend configuration.

Hi! I have had the same issues as you with the 2.0.7 firmware. The temperature fluctuated all time, so I went back to the 2.0.6 firmware

I am going back to 2.06 also because 2.07 does not allow negative Z-Offset values.

2.06 working fine - no need to redo PID values.

i also have problem on heating today, i found out my heater's wire snap.

Auto leveling 過了？ 那應該是高度 你改噴頭 應該會比較長

有autolevel,不過好像都一樣,感覺上沒存進去，autolevel過程都沒問題

備品是2014年ATOM寄來的熱敏電阻(因為當時還能用就先沒換)

還是MINTRMP，可能其他地方壞

壞掉當時正用面板旋扭調溫度180>200，按下去作確認後面板就變Err: MINTEMP了，前一秒還在parking位加熱中

用另一條線接備品熱敏電阻T0有溫度，看來原本的線可能也有狀況（畫面上方拔掉的那條），還好板子沒壞……QQ

好的線接舊電阻也是Err: MINTEMP看來它真的掛了...

依官網的故障排除用電表測也沒讀數 找文章想到我壞掉前也發生過印件黏在黏噴頭的堵料 清過之後還有印一下啊....仍然壞掉了Q_Q

請問更換熱敏電阻的官方教學只有這個嗎? 升級手冊找不到苦惱中https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fldOEgHFCs0

發現我還是需要這影片前面拆噴頭的過程，請問1:29時他拆掉的黃色透明膠帶是什麼？我可以用貼底板的藍色膠帶代替嗎？ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fldOEgHFCs0

再請教，我可能從圈起來的地方拆一條線去穿過噴頭再接回去嗎？電阻那端包好好的很不想破壞它 (逃避焊接

Physics. Your printing too fast. The change in motion causes too much force on the effector. In essence you can drop Accel and speed or increase holding torque on stepper drivers

i have 4 printers (all 2.5EX) and this only happends on this one , all the others are with same setting and do not have this issue ☺

איזה הגדרות הדפסה?

make sure all the ball joint and nozzle are tight.
or try check the voltage.

As mentioned check ball joints and connection points. Have you checked motor current to see if it's the same as others?

i will check it ☺ many thanks

Moving axis by hand too fast will damage circuit board

I replaced all 3 drivers on the board to new, double checked all the magnet balls screws, all looks good and still this problem remains.... the movie is printing in 30mms .... ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

有辦法接嗎?可以先接起來用

黃色線是熱敏電阻,如果線接回還是不行,願意來彰化的話我這邊有.

這組嗎？我在神岡有需要再跟我說，我有多買備用的。

感謝大家！！表弟特地從台南帶上來神救援完成！！虛驚一場

感謝！

改第347行 # define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 225//195 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.中的225數值

Autohome之後用1mm把Z軸慢慢降下來，快碰到玻璃時換成0.1mm的，慢慢降到碰到玻璃，然後看面板Z高度剩下多少，從marline裡面扣掉

借問你有遇到level bed後，再使用auto home會撞噴頭的問題嗎?
但重開機不先使用level bed後，直接使用auto home沒問題

這是IDE 新舊版問題 , 換成舊版arduino ide , 或是將fpos_t 改成fpost

因為新的Arduino 也定義了 fpos_t，Marlin也有定義自己的 fpos_t造成重覆定義，直接 search & replace all "fpos_t" 改成其他名稱就行了，基本上也只要改兩個檔案就行了: SdBaseFile.cpp, SdBaseFile.h
$ grep -n fpos_t *.{cpp,h}
SdBaseFile.cpp:297:void SdBaseFile::getpos(__fpos_t* pos) {
SdBaseFile.cpp:928: __fpos_t pos;
SdBaseFile.cpp:1495:void SdBaseFile::setpos(__fpos_t* pos) {
SdBaseFile.h:34: * \struct __fpos_t
SdBaseFile.h:38:struct __fpos_t {
SdBaseFile.h:43: __fpos_t() : position(0), cluster(0) {}
SdBaseFile.h:208: void getpos(__fpos_t* pos);
SdBaseFile.h:212: void setpos(__fpos_t* pos);

這：太難了…

https://www.facebook.com/groups/atom3dp/1959857627585856/

韌體有啟用？

基座是PLA嗎，隔熱要做好，不然會軟掉

另一組電源輸入端也要接電...

是用 PLA，目前是墊高大約 10mm，之後打算再加上木板隔熱

太感謝了，原來熱床的供電是不一樣的，難怪一直覺得這樣供電會不夠

沒有，以為是不是韌體的問題，但是設定都完全沒看到，所以問題在供電兩邊都要接上

D8 和 + 這組的 2端 直接 接 熱床 即可！不必 透過 繼電器 接熱床！

因 D8 (接自 Q3 的 Drain 極 )是 依 熱床上 的 熱敏電阻 所得的 溫度狀況 來控制 Q3 (大電流 的 Power MOS) 以 PWM 接 GND 輸出，如再 經 繼電器 可能 繼電器 的 機械動作 會 反應不過來！熱床 溫度 可能會 不穩~~

另 D8 這組的 +12V 是 專線 來自 另一組 電源輸入端 經由 專用的 10A 的 PTC 熱敏 保護電阻 (又稱 無熔絲 保險絲) 專供 熱床 電源用！

專線 又有 10A 無熔絲 保險絲 保護 再加 大電流 的 Power MOS，故不需 另接 繼電器~~

感謝 不曉得D8 還有另外的保護措施 才想接繼電器比較安全，結果機械式運作時會頻繁切換 （因為PWM輸出？）反而造成輸出不穩

PWM 的 切換速度 遠快於 繼電器 的 On / Off 機械反應 速度~~

如 熱床 消耗電流 大於 11~15A (PTC 熱敏 保護電阻 超過 22A 會作動) 、工作電壓 超過 16V 或 有需要 外掛 時，可使用 固態繼電器 (SSR) 代替 內建的 Power MOS，接法 就 直接 將 D8 和 + 這組的 2端 接到 SSR 輸入端，+ 接 SSR 輸入端 的 + / D8 接 SSR 輸入端 的 - 即可~~

另，接 SSR 時 因輸入端 吃電 僅 20mA 左右，故 線可用 細線 就可~~