ATOM 3D Printer Group 造訪社團 » 用戶發文

Looks like you had a short circuit. You'll need a new motherboard.

A new board is surely an option. But I could also repair it. How much does a new board cost, where do I get it? Thx.

Weld L1 holes on the board can be connected

I had the same problem

Search "MKS GEN V1.4" to find a board for replacement if you failed to fix it, Cost under $30 around.

Write to Atom and they’ll sell you a new board. You can replace it with a different board that is compatible but you might have to change some options.

It looks like you blew the voltage regulator. I recently did that myself on another printer. I accidentally flipped the power switch off and back on again really fast.

Hey Todd, thanks for the info. Did your printer do the same thing? Do you know where I can find the power regulator on the board? I think I could replace it myself.

Vielleicht hat die Leistungkomponenten von dem Hauptleiterplatte gebrannt, Überprüfen Sie bitte auf der Leiterplatte.

you can try to destroy the L1(Diode) in mainboard and make short circuit it.

Okay? Thats an interesting workaround. Something seems to be broken here. Where do I find the diode?

Do you have the power on? The printer is able to be turn on only with the 5v of the USB...

I have detected another bug with last firmware as well, if i turn off the printer with the USB conected to the computer, It shuts off the computer too!

When I turn on the printer (with mains connection) it kind of turns on but without the display. When I plug the USB the display comes on and the works. Where is this L1 diode?

Is it work with USB connection? try printing something to see if it is just the "reprap discount smart controller LCD" should be replaced.

I posted another video. It shows that it works with USB. Whats wrong there?

I had this issue before and it was the display for me. It is either the display or main board. The display is the quickest and cheapest to test first.

LIVE !!

So it did work before, right? Maybe there is something wrong in the main board. You can try to plug the autolevel switch connector to other socket (there should be 2 blanks at that column) and modify firmware.

As I known, there are new firmware alreay release,
what do not you download and take a try?

I suggest you upgrade firmware to latest one ver.180529.
It will warn you before auto level starting if you don't adjust sensor well. You have to adjust the sensor to be just "clicked" by screw.
https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/firmware-en

https://atom3dp.squarespace.com/autoleveling-en

Hi! I unplugged the sensor and measured it with a multimeter. It is „closed“ by default, meaning the circuit is closed and current can flow. When I push the nozzle upwards the switch goes „click“ and I can measure the circuit to be opened that way. This means, the switch is working. There might be a problem on the mainboard. Can I use a different connector on the board and route it it in the firmware? Thx!!

One more thing: I‘m on the latest firmware and I do not get a warning. It seems like the firmware „thinks“ everything is good. ??‍♂️

Hello，you can use the firmware ver. 180529，and choose version 2.0，menu position :Control -> Version，change this item and then Store Memory，and then can be use version 2.0~

You can buy it here.
http://www.atom3dp.com/en/shop/

Regular glass can be used. You don't need to buy original one.

But I would like to know the price for the original. Regular heat resisant glas is very expensive here in Germany. Thanks!

Well, shipping fee from Taiwan to Germany may let you buy more than one piece. You can use tampered circular glass. The black color is just painted.
The heat bed is usually 60~110degC, regular glass will be enough.

Whats the problem here?!

Rotate the screw under the level sensor clockwise 2~3 rotations

Wow! Idan! Thank you! Great! - How come it is nowhere in the documentation?!

What does the EXT mean in the display?

http://www.atom3dp.com/en/support/#community