Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » STL

Great job! Those eyes are amazing.

Stan Westmoreland Thank you ;o) Always stressed when I’ve to paint eyes.. this time, they were big enough to do something quite correct;o)

Seb Keihilin Is that 6" scale? I've been needing to print one.

Stan Westmoreland almost 13cm long and 7cm high

This is amazing

James Doby Thank You ;o)

Great paint job :) , maybe put some gloss on the eyes ?

Sjef Blaster Thanks, I need to find something for the glossy effect yes.. some use resine..

resin might ruin the paint job, best is to use the same paints you used on the eyes. If you have an airbrush, use that.

Seb Keihilin hair spray give wet effect if you spray 2-3layers :)

E wanna wanga!

Make sure your printer is level, bed is level. If it that doesnt work then try upping bottom layer exposure

Jesse Szabo I leveled.
the paper was tight and the model was in the middle so it should at least be level enough.

I’ll try 90 seconds.

Thanks

Take the vat out and run the file again. Make sure the LCD is working. Should have had SOMETHING there. Either on the plate or in the vat.

Fred Bey I don’t see any light on the screen. Going to wait until it comes up further to confirm.

The exposure light did work when I tried in the settings. I wonder if it’s my old version of chitubox. I’ll try the photon slicer if I can’t get it to work.

Also make sure the model wasn't all dark in the slicer. That means flipped normals, and won't print.

There is a light. I was watching for when the base lifts and there’s no light then ?

Would it hurt to have a 100 base layer? It’s clear resin.

Clear resins do seem to need higher exposures, from what I've read.

Fred Bey thanks. In the settings I changed it to 100 and I heard a little pop. Hopefully ?
Thanks for the help.

Fred Bey quick question.

It’s on Mayer around 100 and I think I’m still hearing poping. Is this normal? Or is it fighting the fep? I’ll post. A short video.

Pop can be heard until last layers in some cases. If you have tight fep and good leveling then fep will be fine.

Piotr Kuśmierski Thanks!

You can't print an STL file, when you slice it with the correct settings for your printer, you will have a different type of file saved by the software

If you have the photon printer then you need to save them from the slicing software to the USB stick as a .photon file. The printer should recognize it then.

Thank you. I saved the Photon file but I must have copied the stl file to the USB. I decided to give up for the day but will try it again tomorrow.

Thank you. I did save the Photon file but I must have coped the STL instead of the Photon to the USB drive. Will give it another try tomorrow.

What layer height, and expiration did u use?

I find placement to be difficult too. Can get a good amount done then it's like it detaches from the supports. I use mediums not lights.
Still learning it too.

if it is model with shenlong, it will be to big for photon xD

Paweł Pyrczak

Anders Jens Ramm

ahh, the pose of legs is very close to model with shenlong

Anders Jens Ramm

Yeah, Goku isnt very original with his poses hahaha

exactly xD

Kevin Deiman do u slice directly in Chitubox??

first Prusaslicer for the supports, then Chitubox, then photon validator for missing supports

Kevin Deiman ooooh classic!

gonna watch that episode tonight again hehe

I think if the arrow is pointing to the right in chitubox than the long edge is facing out from the printer window. Or it's the other way round lol

no its left or right side

Kevin Deiman cool! If this a public stl?

This may or not be related to your issue but resin printers like printing vertically not horizontally. That much change in area from later to layer won't yield good results, going from tiny support points to a large surface area so quickly is difficult for the resin to do and you'll have binding issues

I'd recommend a more up and down orientation

Josh Berkley thanks for your Swift reply. I will try and reorientate it ? only did, cause I know that height equal time ?

Anders Jens Ramm absolutely right. A trick I like is to combine the print with a taller file. This piece looks like part of an assembly? If there are other parts you can't avoid the height with then throw smaller things in there and you get them for "free" time wise. If that makes sense

What resin are u using?

Pikie Perch Poacher Sidious standard grey resin from Anycubic

I get good results with 6s exposure have u done a test?

Josh Berkley I am still very new, and still trying to dial in on, how to use the printer. Experimenting with layer height, exponation time aso. But thanks for the tip ?

Pikie Perch Poacher Sidious I just got it yesterday and doing all kind of tests. Some with more success than others ? Can you tell me, if my layer height becomes smaller, eg going from 0,05 to 0,025 - shall I in- or decrease the expo time??

U should print the exposure test from thingiverse, if u post the results folks on here will help read the results. This will let u know the best exposure time for the layer height u test at. I print at 0.05 for 6 s normal. Dose that make sense?

If I printed at 0.025 I would run an exposure test for that layer height to find the best exposure time

Pikie Perch Poacher Sidious it does. I did the rerf test that come with the machine, and found that 7 was best, with layer height of 5microns. But Can that just be directly transferred onto any model, big or small, that I print with the layer height?

Can you link me the exposure test you’re referring to? The rerf one was a real hassle, as all the non-good exposures didn’t stick to the print, but fell off and attached them self to the fab ? ? that was a real pain to get them off again ☹️

I think the test on thingiverse are better I believe and allow u to do different layer heights and use a lot less resin. If 7 was best at 0.05, I would use that. If I wanted to reduce layer height I would expect the exposure time to be less. But another test for that layer height would be best practice, I believe

Anders Jens Ramm I totally understand we all learn new things every day

Josh Berkley if u have any good source of in depth theory you can share I would be happy, as I right now just kind of wing it ?‍♂️

Anders Jens Ramm I'll be very honest I don't deviate from 8s/layer and 65s/bottom layer hardly at all. Almost never get failures unless I did a bad job supporting

Josh Berkley so I orientated it vertical, but I think maybe my supports are to small and exposure time to short. So I try again with heavy supports and exposure time of 10s. ?‍♂️

Anders Jens Ramm looks like an exposure time problem to me. If I had a clear picture of the entire object (a pic if the stl) I could have a better idea of a good orientation

This is a known issue when you hollow in chitubox.

FIX: Use anything else to hollow such as workshop or meshmixer.

Put your stl trough windows 3d builder. It will clean it for you. And yes hollow it with meshmixer!

How does one put it through windows 3d builder? just downloaded it

Its not an issue with Chitubox. Its an issue with poorly created STL files. Put the file you have through something like Netfabb repair the stl and then slice you will see a big difference.

A lot of artists out there create models without consideration of the birds nest mesh that they create as well. The slicer trys to slice everything it sees. You Can't hollow a model properly if you have vertices pointing in a million directions.

Looks like supports, and bases for supports.

Eli Allan my windows 10 got builder standard

Just search 3d builder in the search bar from windows

Yeah, that's clearly Layer Zero in both pictures. The scrambled one is support bases, not a bad model.

Yeah, youtube

this video will show you how to split a model up. joe is using meshmixer to split a model apart so he can use the parts for multicolour printing but cutting up the model is the same https://youtu.be/2V-HiC0q24E

Windows 3D builder works great for this.

yes but you do get a more refined cut with meshmixer if that's what you need. :)

Are you importing it or opening it?

Dan Elent tried both

"export plate as an stl including supports" option, this will save it as an .stl instead of a masked .sl1 file.

Where exactly do they tell you its invalid?

Jacob Hale I did that.

Dan Elent

Dan Elent

Very strange

For example, i'm trying to mirror the right arm of a model to make a left arm.
But the left arm I mirror won't print, and comes out as a shaded object in Chitubox

It sounds like it's treating the object as a separate model. Maybe try joining them in Meshmixer or something?

Something like this

Import into blender, go into edit mode, normals, recalculate outside. If you really cant do it, contact me here I can do it for you...

Darko Miljak thanks man. I'll give it a shot.

select all with A and then recalculate, export as stl