Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » Anycubic

anycubic grey is my favorite. I do add a little sirya tenacious to it so its not so brittle.

I have now anycubic black and done the first testprints. They come out quit nice.

If you find a resin you like, that works for you, why fix what isn't broken? I've tried a number, not the Anycubic grey though, and I settled on Siraya Fast ABS-like grey, because it works for me in terms of quality, cost and availability. The only reason I'd change is if one of those factors changed.

Great job! Those eyes are amazing.

Stan Westmoreland Thank you ;o) Always stressed when I’ve to paint eyes.. this time, they were big enough to do something quite correct;o)

Seb Keihilin Is that 6" scale? I've been needing to print one.

Stan Westmoreland almost 13cm long and 7cm high

This is amazing

James Doby Thank You ;o)

Great paint job :) , maybe put some gloss on the eyes ?

Sjef Blaster Thanks, I need to find something for the glossy effect yes.. some use resine..

resin might ruin the paint job, best is to use the same paints you used on the eyes. If you have an airbrush, use that.

Seb Keihilin hair spray give wet effect if you spray 2-3layers :)

E wanna wanga!

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You did not put any comment?

That would be the light off delay field in Chitubox (controls how long the print stays idle at the top peel cycle) to ensure that the LCD cools down and does not build up heat with each exposure.

I think he put dot to follow topic :)

Yasu Tano will a too short off time, have the same result as overexposure??

No, but it can shorten photon components life

This ^

Heat build up on the screen will kill screens faster

Piotr Kuśmierski how much delay you recomend?

On a photon with most resins? 1-2 seconds are good. If you ambient room temp is above 90F roll with 3-4 seconds

Yasu Tano would a longer delay cause any print issues (apart from obviously a longer printing time)?

I’m thinking if a longer delay would extend the life of the lcd then that’s a price I’d be happy to pay ?

Thx guy's, The terminology was not the same on the spreadsheet! On some setting I could figure out what it was but the last one, I was not sure!

do you put the delay in both field ( light off delay and bottom light off delay)?

Bruno L'Archeveque some terminology make confuse but it's dynamic.

Normaly you don't have to set up a separate delay. Because the normal combination of lift distance and lift speed exceeds/grants the needed time to cool down the LCD.
Edit: You can increase the buttom layer lift distance to insure an adequate cooling time. Maybe it's needed because of the longer Display on time.

It’s possible it came lose. You have to disassemble the entire unit. But it could also be a bad board. I had to replace mine.

https://youtu.be/nI0Nj5MXWVE

already did that, plugging in the USB directly to the mainboard did not work either. and of course i ripped the ribbon cable off the LCD while i was at it... ? but thx for the input

Peter Gross the motherboard probably went bad. They shipped me a new one and I swapped it out in about 15 minutes and now it’s up and running great

i was hoping for that but now they don't process my ticket and deleted my account grrr

Might be over exposure, how long are you exposing?

I feel your frustration, just startimh resin printning as well, and get the same results ? ?

Two things stop auto support. It does not get all the spots needed and will cause fusing. Go watch 3d printing pro on YouTube. He does support tutorials that helped most of us get started. Second search this groups main page for the resin test. It will save you a ton of time finding setting.also the excel spreadsheet helps starting out.

I just printed a Wendigo usingAnycubic basic white resin and all I was able to salvage was the head and arms from the print. I am readjust the angle and removing any auto-suports that seem excessive.

Spread sheet of settings. https://docs.google.com/....../1crvzMnt....../htmlview......

As a relatively newbie to the 3DP world, I have been told (and am finding this to be true) that the majority of print errors are due to 2 things- either build-plate levelling or exposure settings: this would seem to be overexposure of your resin. I am using Elegoo resin so no point in me giving settings, but I’m sure the group can help.

right, dont use auto supports, please post your settings

Don't use this sheet. Resin calibration test.

I see these type posts a lot, first question, is it level? Next question, is everything tight, Third question, did you try to print something with just standard settings without changing anything? Last question, did you do an exposure test and then adj ust from standard settings if they didn’t work? I have had zero issues with very slight adjustments from standard. I just don’t get why all the trouble people have with this.

Also this part still looks wet, so please wear gloves when handling it

I have upload this on # Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4229330 download the chitubox files to get an idea about supports

A couple days ago I did the very model set you are doing. Couple things:
1. Exposure looks way too high (mine was 7s for elegoo gray)
2. Too many supports and the orientation could be a touch better

Shoot me a pm around 5pm or 6pm EST and I'll shoot you the stl file with supports I used.

Mongo Rogers where did you get those 3 bad asses?

Ryan Smith Made them on my Photon :)

Mongo Rogers I meant are they on thingverse or did you grab them from a site?

Ryan Smith LOL opps yeah thingiverse.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3748870

Panagiotis Kountouriotis

Dude, combo of Siraya fast grey and tenacious. Literally a 100% print, no failures. Been through three bottles, and I’m not looking back

Crisp prints

Did you make those or did you buy them somewhere? I could really use models like that for my Malifaux crews

I would suggest toning down the exposure by a second or two; the detail looks a little blurry.
To avoid damage to the model, I suggest using prusa slicers auto support feature. Some will say don't bother, but it works well enough for a beginner. Use 75% density auto supports and it should be fine.

also interested in knowing where the files for the bases are available

7sek? mine fail at 7, i use 16. also for elegoo gray on a photon ?

awesome bases!

Chris Montgomery my buddy from Punished Games is holding a Kickstarter for them, i just printed some prototypes for him


https://www.kickstarter.com/....../the-holy-reliquary

Chris Rees one painted up

Wear gloves!

I use methylated spirits/denatured alcohol for my cleaning purposes and it works fine, try to find one that is as much as 95% ethanol, usually labeled as camping stove fuel or as a cleaning agent in the paint supplies

Sweet! Thanks!

My cleaning process is a little convoluted but it works great also, I have a 1 gallon plastic paint pail full of denatured with a removable lid, and a spray bottle filled with my denatured, I pre rinse over the pail with the spray, soak in the pail, proceed to spray rinse a second time, and then hand dry.

Nice!

Never tried meth, prefer heroin.

A bit of something I picked up on accident, a paper towel sheet sitting in your alcohol vat will appear to slowly accumulate dissolved resin in its fibers as a passive filter of sorts, to help keep your cleaning process consistent between batches

Miles Redman that's a top tip!

using deicer my self right now lol

Sad to say...not really an option afaik

That's what I figured. At 61% now and crossing my fingers.

Scott Mitchell look into apc battery backups. If you get a big one...could print for a while. Little one will protect you from power blips

Just as a solution for down the road

Nice. What scale?

Neal Conway 1/25

Paint job is excellent!

This is the future of modeling. Excellent print and paint!

this is fantastic! I've been doing some 3D scanning for a customer and scaling up smaller models.