Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » EX

Real threads also have a little wiggle room to move, they can't be the exact same shape or they get stuck.

A pic of the threads m+f would help diagnose the problem, show us A pic of the pre sliced item/s

Run a tap and die over it... Or scale threads in program.

Probably the original file need some tweaks for the fittings, depending on the piece you can scale it or even cutting the thread. Try meshmixer, there are a lot of free tutorials in youtube to learn, it's a very useful tool and it's free!

After much sanding it’s now fitting. I think there wasn’t enough wiggle, I have scaled this down as I didn’t need it all that big

Jeff Greenfield what’s a tap and die?

Alex Bainbridge 60-Piece Master Tap and Die Set - Include Both SAE Inch and Metric Sizes, Coarse and Fine Threads | Essential Threading and Rethreading Tool Kit with Complete Accessories and Storage Case https://www.amazon.com/....../ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai......

Normally used in machine shops for cutting threads. This set should be ok for plastic and resins, I wouldn’t use them on steel unless I was really in a pinch. A real machine shop set would be at least 15x that price.

You need overgrowth compensation for mechanical (correct sized) parts. Z-suite and prusa slicer are the two slicer I know of that can do it.

Peter Csaki I use prusa. I’ll give this a google to find out what’s what

That wiggle room is a lot less than you would think.

How much did you compensate when printing? I usually shave about .2 off the thread side

Stefan Giudici I didn’t do anything but print it. Never printed threads so didnt know ? how do you shave off?

Tap and die set

Alex Bainbridge Only if you slice it with it.

Did you also print the thing it screws into?

I make the outside diameter of the part that will have threads .2 smaller before I apply the threads

Peter Csaki ahh, that I don’t do as I use chitu. Maybe it’s time to keep it all in prusa

Stefan Giudici I didn’t design this model it’s off thingiverse. I assume you’re designing with the apply the threads comment?

Steve Stagg yup

400 hours average, but it's a bell curve. some have managed to go for ~1000hours, while others have lost their screens at 200h

Nipuna Gunarathne thanks I was looking for AVG value, since I was not able to find one decisive answer in internet

It was mentioned on the Phrozen website, the LCD is basically the same across all 5.5" printers

Anycubic recommends about 6 months depending on usage. Not as helpful as number of hours used. For some folks, they die after 2 months, for others, like me, it has lasted 2 years and hundreds of prints.

Is the rest stuck to the fep?

Jason Willis nothing on the fep, i see sommes details, but i have to look hard with sun reflection

It's likely the wrong base exposure times for your resin then. Try adding a little time to it all and see if it makes a difference

Did you wash and cure it? I find taking it off the plate can make it easier to read too. That said clear resins don't work as well with the exposure test too

well, it's a rapid resin, said 5-15 sec on the box, (and i used the same resin in red with awesome results, it's eleego abs like translucent), so i'm a bit confused

Ðam's Voué light transfers through different pigments at different rates. Clear doesn't absorb as much as quickly

Jason Willis so i should try more than 20 sec then? it's weird, i used 5 sec on the red translucent, and this one should have same (according to eleego) settings, maybe my z=0 is too low? and i have not enough room?

Ðam's Voué z=0 to low would only limit you on the base portion of the build. The rest should print normally when you get farther in or it would be stuck to the fep.

What are your base times set to? What was the rest of the prints exposure time?

yeah, still nearly invisible, but i can see the "timer" on each, i'm confused because it's supposed to be 5-15 sec, and the test run 2-20is this supposed to be that thin?

Err the numbers go from 1-10, and you double the numbers to get the time (eg column 1 is 2 seconds, column 7 is 14 seconds). What's the name of the file you printed?

i used the test from this group, and since it's a rapid resin i used the rapid resin test; base 100 sec, 20 micron 2-20 sec

Tiernan Messmer resin-test-20u.B100.2-20, from the resin test i took in this group

Tiernan Messmer https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration

Yeah that file is what I was describing. Not sure where you got the idea it was meant to be 5-15s from? The 2s to 20s is what the 2-20 means in the filename.

Tiernan Messmer the 5-15 range is for this resin, from the box :) so i tought 2-20 could cover more than necessary tests

Ohh I follow now. And yes it's meant to be thin. But yeah clear resins are hard to read

Tiernan Messmer

Tiernan Messmer more than hard, all test are flat, so i tought i did something wrong

the fact is, few month ago i did lot of awesomes prints, different kind of size and type of prints, i made a pause for 2 month (had a lot to do, and somes paints) and now, nothing work anymore.. i failed 20 prints in a week, with weird somes supports breaking in the middle or stopping at the end of support, with the print don't attached to it (but only on somes randoms supports) so i try another bottle of resin, in case for some reason my resin is corrupted, but i can't even get a good exposure test...

since all my problems were only bed leveling, and finding the good exposure time, i don't have much experience in problems resolutions, and i need help from people with more knowledge

You bought a wrong fan with pwm. You need a fan with 3 pins, which you can run, with just 2 pins installed. The 3rd pin is for the sensor. But a 4 pin fan needs a pwm driver, which the photon board doesn't have and so it can't drive it, unfortunately

Pierre Eichel And can you tell me where I'd plug a 3 pins fan please ? If you can circle on the picture, I'd appreciate

Audrey Col you can't just directly plug it in, you need to cut the cables and solder it to the 2 pins of your old fan ?

And so is there an alternative fan option that you know, that wouldn't require soldering please?

https://smile.amazon.de/....../ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i......

Those will work, but as I recall it was quiet hard to plug them in, at least I couldn't get the old plug out and therefore I just cut the cables ?

Pierre Eichel I plugged the stock one out already. But it will require a bit of finger finesse plugging anything back in ? ?
Thanks for your help.

You're welcome ?

I'm just going the same at the moment but using 190 micron paint filters. Seem to get all the bits out. Where did you get the funnel/tray rig from btw? I'd find that immensely useful! :-)

I believe it's on Thingiverse.

James Dodd

I made this a few months ago, and uploaded it about a week ago :) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4214103

Does it justify the price?

Luke Lay if you haven't already built a DIY cure chamber and have the money, yes. I'm interested to see how well it cleans hollow parts (that's my biggest issue) but for 189 and free shipping if say yes.

$189? I just got mine on ebay for $149free shipping arrived 1 week

Meh, the screws can be (very) stuck. As long as you don't strip them you are fine.

Bottle cap method works great. Don't worry to much about tuning it just tighten the bolts one spin at a time alternating screws kind of like putting on a tire if that helps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLi3chV43LQ

And done.
Used the bottle cap and the Spectrum app. Got a nice high ping. Now running the first test print.

resin settings pls.go through your trouble shooting steps. do a screen test to make sure the screen is good. relevel, make sure you didnt overfill and got resin in the ball joint

Not sure if it is your photo or not but it looks like your printing plate isnt level. Other wise i would ask if the whole photon is level.

also filter resin, check for floatys and stuff stuck to the screen

stock settings, file straight off the anycubic website - 8 sec exposure, 3mm/s lift speed, 60s bottom exposure, 3 bottom layers

I don't think the leveling is a problem because I have no problem with it sticking to the build plate, in fact I had trouble getting it off.

Mi Ha do 8 bottom

But the bottom is not a problem at all?

Mi Ha could be. means only .15mm of your base is super solid. try bringing layer base up to 9 or 10

Ok will try that.

is your resin expired? i got a load of exspired resin from anycubic that effected the cure time

Nathan Kopp No, the date on it says september 2020.

lol if its off by a small amount it can. or its shifting cause the ball joint is lubed. like i said start trouble shooting at the basics or everyone is just going to guess

I got another bottle of anycubic grey, maybe worth trying if that one would be any better?

Nathan Kopp I'll try to relevel.

Did you do the standard sacrifice to the printer gods or the enhanced?

can't say that i have, what's the protocol?

Mi Ha ok it’s a bit involved. First You need to strip down to your undergarments.. lol!

John Chrapkowski we're under quarantine, i've been like this for the whole week!

I'd say maybe a levelling issue or your fep needs tightening slightly? I've also had fails dew to the desk my photon was on wasn't level and so used a spirit level to double check. Not sure if it's the pic but the resin in your vat looks deeper on one side than the other. Could it be that your printer itself needs reorientating? The legs of the printer are adjustable. Hope this helps!

Hmm, that might be the case, i'll double check. Thanks for the suggestion!

Mi Ha no probs

Rich Harrison legs or feet on the S are not adjustable.

Jeff Greenfield oh really? I rely on that quite a lot

Rich Harrison unfortunately just rubber feet with glue. I was expecting them to be like the original photon, but was disappointed. Had to build a shelf to put it on and leveled the shelf.

yeah just checked, no adjustable legs but it's not a big deal.

Mi Ha might not be the problem anyway. Hope you figure it out!

I actually just added 2 tiny supports at the spot where it broke before and so far (80% done) it looks perfect.

Mi Ha ah nice. However, this shouldn't be necessary with the test cube so just keep the problem in mind for further print fails. Happy printing!!

indeed! I think I might revisit this (without supports) when it gets a little warmer and/or I change the resin.

Little wipe with asotone and they will disappear

Vinny Bryant Before or after clean up and post cure?

Matt Enochs try it after cure I got a bit Confused thought it was a filliment print but might still be worth a try

AA will help, and there is a chart that optimises angle to layer height. Eg 0.04 layer is about 42 degrees to the horizontal, but given you have multiple flat surfaces, you’ll have to compromise

It might be a loose z-axis or it might be that for that angle, you need thinner layers to appear smooth. I use .03 for everything.
Good blend of speed and detail

You can cove this u when you paint, just don’t use washes of the flat surface. And keep the paint matt

Vinny Bryant nope - basically the only solvents that will dissolve cured resin are chloroform and paint stripper. Neither are a good idea to use at home. The former is illegal (in quite a few places) and the latter is carcinogenic.

Peopel have to understand that aliasing happens at every degree at some strength and antialiasing cannot always prevent it. The perfect angle is 45 degree, no matter what. Its a math Problem you could even calculate.

Just a thought is your bulit plate lever as the ones on the left look okay but the right look worse

https://www.chitubox.com/article_howto_17839_3_25.html