Anycubic Photon Printer Owners 造訪社團 » AI

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As far as I know you can’t use .photon files as input

You can use .photon for input. But the files are usually too big for chitubox to handle for some reason. Use the .stl file instead.

I stopped saving sliced files for this reason. Don't seem to be able to use them.

Well you save the photon file. But you dont close chitu. Check with validator. And then go into chitu to fix. You cant use chitu to manually add stuff to a an already sliced file.

ah, got it.

After 4 months, this is what I learned. Slice the file in chitubox but do not close it. Open the slice in validator, run the fix then with the open chitubox file, support any islands. Do not store sliced files, instead just save your updated .stl. you can slice it later whenever you need it. Also, now you can combine this STL with another to print multiple things at once.

yeah found the problem haha.

You can save the project in chitu as .chitubox and then you can always go back and edit it however you want without saving it as an stl.

Check out the Gaslands page too. Good luck!

check out Cold Casting using epoxy resin and metal, copper, brass powders etc.

https://www.youtube.com/user/aonemarine

Woww

aw man, I've been looking for an stl set of all the main characters.. your's are great

Amazing work. Any chance you are sharing the file?

Gorgonites for the win.

Michael D Showalter much appreciated, I hope to offer them for sale once all 13 characters are finalized.

Tony Shadman thanks, I do plan on offering them for sale in the future

Clark Paints here’s to hoping ?

Still love this film as much today as when I first saw it

Richard Thomas I’m right there with ya ?

J.R. DeJesus in the near future I hope. ?

This guy looks like Ookla the Mok

Personally I’ve never been able to get prints very clean with simple green, even in an ultrasonic. Mean green is supposed to work better or mr clean, not sure which kind though.

I read that as keep drinking stuff? ?

John Chrapkowski ?

try warm soapy water

John Chrapkowski I had to go back and read it again after reading your comment.

my wife hates me i keep stealing her makeup brush the big ones she uses for adding blush some soap warm water and prints are golden.

if your planning on undercoating and painting your models dont waste too much elbow grease on cleaning.

Nikola Pijanac I do, just wondering how often to change out the ISO/Cleaning solution

takes me all of 5 minutes to dip and swish model in metholated spirits some soapy water let dry, cure outside if sun is out and start painting

i have a small plastic bucket with metholated spirits in it i empty it when i see sludge forming at the bottom, the resin sinks to the bottom, you cant miss it. pour out into a clean container the stuff thats ok and clean out the bottom. ive only ever used ipa a couple times and found metho is just as good.

I suggest a ‘dirty’ wash then a clean wash. After clean wash get too bad make it the new dirty and pour a new clean. It’s going to depend on model and how long you let it drip dry first to see how fast it gets dirty

just as a by the by, i am yet to change the fep in my anycubic, its about 2 years old now, i never take out the resin from the vat, had vat half full for weeks at a time with no issues, just dont leave the printer door open, 98% success with models sticking on build platform, and have only releveled once in last 14 months.

I hate you, lucky bugger.

It depends on how resiny your prints are. Personally, I run the IPA through a curing cycle every time, filter it, and store it in a 'tainted' bottle. Then reuse that, topping up with clean as required.

Stuart, pretty much the same here, IPA in AU is expensive. The Anycubic printer like all others isn't a sacred cow, its a matter of trial and error. Nothing is set in stone. It's meant to be a fun exercise being able to create and not just visualise va rious models and ideas.I put mentholated spirits in a container wash my models in it, when I see sludge forming at the bottom I just pour out whats ok and rinse out the rubbish on the bottom. I'm going to try that as well with the mentholated spirits, put the container in a curing bucket Ive made see how the resin solidify's it may make the cleaning process easier and more effective.

Good as any :) right up until i got my IPA, I was using various kinds of nail polish remover which were pretty effective :)

For the very very odd model that I don't paint or undercoat, I have dipped the model back into the resin hung it so it drip drys so to speak. No dipping into a cleaning solution of any sort. I have a UV bucket diy. I'll hang it in the bucket for curing , you will get an amazing transparent glove like finish on the model that shines. Resin is pretty forgiving and its not necessary to always wash it off depending if you have a way to cure and suspend your model. I've gotten some beautiful surface finishes on some chess pieces that I've made.

Nikola Pijanac i'll give that a go!

LOL... Joshua I maintain that there are still a ton of people out there that haven't checked to see if their build arm is crashing into the Vat. It's hardly noticeable, it was a major fault with the Anycubic Photon. If people would fix that or at least check to see if its right, no more Z wobble, no more model won't stick to build platform (cause it can't get close enough to where 0 should be). A lot more would be enjoying their Photon rather than whining about it. Check your photon people... It only takes a minute to check and about 10 minutes to fix.

Nice Marauder.

What settings did you use? I just started on Grey and it seems really brittle ?

Kelly Brownlie the Maurader is .05 10second cook time
The car parts for Gaslands are .05 at 14seconds cook time.

The Maurader looks a little under exposed, but still has really good detail and nothing wonky other than a few peeling payers on the top cannon.
The Gaslands bits have really good detail for how small they are.

Hot Wheels car for scale... since that’s what the bits are for. ?

Awesome that’s I think I waaaaay over cooked at 14! Ugh ?

Very nice!

I've been looking to print a Marauder to match my favorite Battletech PC-game mech, the Marauder with UAC/20++ and Dual TTS+++ targetting computers. Looking good

Se lige her Steffen Andersen

Tiernan Messmer

Thanks for making the Validator even better...

Thank you for your great efforts Sol!

You are the most amazing person alive! At least until I find something else shiny. But seriously, this is awesome, thank you.

If you're updating the Validator, are you taking requests?

Because the ability to flick up and down between layers while in the zoom-in mode would be hella handy.

Christopher Fugate add your request to the GitHub, there are a small group of people who are currently improving the application.

Thank you! Good work

Great

Many thanks to all for the positive feedback. I've been busy printing for a couple of days now and so far every print has been successful.

As soon as I have implemented the gamma correction and cleaned up the code, I will make a pull request so that the changes are included in the main branch.

Sol Aris Any idea what would cause this, or more importantly how to fix this?

Robert Jeppesen You need a newer Java version. The program runs from version 11, the error message says that you have Java 8 installed.

Ok, thanks

Thats dope!! where did you find the STL if I may ask?

William Therriault gc trader , cant remember the name , will check

Ill look around there, Thanks!!

Wow, super cool. Love the super clean paint job, even of a dirty subject you blended the style with the subject well.

Arnar Helgi Adalsteinsson if you remember i would like to know as well. that model and paint job is amazing

Francis X Benz GC Trader , model is called Clementine .

link for the lazy: https://pinshape.com/items/32419-3d-printed-clementine

Wow thats so cool ? do you hand paint or airbrush? And what paints do you use?

octopus is airbrushed , rest is handpainted.
I use Army Painter acrylics and Turbo Dork for the fx paints

Arnar Helgi Adalsteinsson nice! Thanks ? I’m just getting into the hobby and trying to figure out what I need to grab first. I hope I can get as good as you.

James Capps This is like the second thing I paint , I am not good at all , just trying out techniques.
Just thin the paints a lot with water would be my first advice.

https://pinshape.com/items/32419-3d-printed-clementine

Arnar Helgi Adalsteinsson wow! You just made me want to go out and grab some paint tomorrow lol. And thanks! Ill keep that in mind.

James Capps go for it ! :)

Quick tip don't thin too much with water...if you have to go thin then incorporate a medium otherwise you split the binding power of the paint and pigment.

Beautiful model

Lee Darcy that is good advice , i have encountered that.

Wet pallet helps too I find.

Arnar Helgi Adalsteinsson wow it's free too. Damn!!!

Francis X Benz AH, pinshape not GCtrader , my bad :)

Level the build plate. The supports are disconnected before it get to the arm.
Also run the uv test to confirm your screen is working

Probably you need to a) use stronger support settings and/or b) adjust the contact depth of your support endpoints as they are breaking away due to the suction forces applied.

And this i have to say in general because it annoys me to no end: Supports breaking off when all other features as seen in the picture print fine HAVE NOTHING to do with bed leveling. People need to stop shouting out any random nonsense they have heard and repeating it to others.

Gergely Jávor I was thinking the same thing with that last comment ?

The amount of BS people regurgitate to one another in FB groups without a single thought is driving me insane. Its fine that people want to help another but its NOT fine to spew out all maner of nonesense just so that you can say you said something, At this rate i wouldn't be suprised if one day someone suggest someone to calibrate their esteps first because surely that is the problem...

Gergely Jávor lmao wait it's still early

Also while being on the subject of suggestions. Additional to what i said in my original answer you might also want to consider playing around with the orientation of your model. The reason why its often suggested to print at an angle is that you start with smaller crosssections which in turn reduce the suction forces and stress applied with each retract move. This might not have a direct affect on the point where you have issues (because the first islands at the hand might not be that big) now but having a different orientation that is not so flat towards the bed might also help. Try playing around with PrusaSlicers optimize orientation features as that may give you a good suggestion on what to try maybe.

I had prints where hands or fingers failed similarily in one orientation with the same support settings and they didn't in other ones. Its probably a mix of experimentation. Try to adjust supports as well as orientation and see if that helps.

Most likely exposure time