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Have you tried ChiChuBox?

Yes but there is no settings for the Zero Ryan sadly

Just go into Chitubox setting and click on add printer. Go to other and select default 1. Type in your resolution and the bed size and rename the profile to a name of your choice.

lol you think 8gb and a 1gb gpu is TOO powerful?! nah man something is likely wrong within your system. do you do yearly os resets? i find not doing so will usually result in issue like this. also i recomend chitubox and prusa slicer over the included software. anycubic's software is just a rip-off version of chitubox with less functionality. even if you dont see settings for your printer, you can enter then manually easily.

It'd look good if a hammer and sickle were in the star haha

It looks heavily overexposed to me

That was my thought as well, this one was exposed at 80s bottom and 8s normal, and seemed horrible underexposed. I guess I’ll split the difference

100% I don’t know who dude was that put 18 seconds on “the sheet” but 7-8 seconds is plenty

Thats the whole purpose of a calibration test, find the sweet spot!

So you end up with a thin wafer that’s a shadow of the model? Or a half printed model that falls off the plate?

Neither. The first layer wont stick the plate

I've level the plate, set z. This is my first print other then the set up print

I use prusa for auto orientation and supports

Prusa?

Not sticking to the platform:usually has 1 of 2 (or both) issues:
(however there is a third)

1) Z=0 not set tight enough
(from "home" go down until it is really tight! and then go up 0.3mm)

2) Base layer exposure not high enough
(try up base layer exposure with 10 seconds)

3) your build platform is greasy due to your skin touching contact surface.
(clean build plate contact surface (with alcohol) and let it dry, make sure no residue is left)

Aight. I'll try those out

dial up the base exposure by 10 till the bases stick

Still adjusting the base exposure but is the rest ok? Using chitubox splicer

Increase the bottom layer count

?

Oops.

I started to see that just before my screen started failing

What resin and what Photon are you using?

?

Generally, I produce my heroic scale miniatures at 50 micron unless they are particularly ornate or it’s a special request.

Two thin coats of a nice primer seem to gloss over any visible layering other than that dang everpresent and slight z wobble

I have gradually started printing closer to 35mm scale (maybe this is considered heroic?). In so doing I feel pike alot of the details show and when I split a model up into parts they aren't so tiny that they're annoying to assemble.

I like to print .03 layer height for medium/tiny & .05 for anything large or bigger

Brendan Wood photon s and photon grey resin

Ryan Tudor what do you set your expo time to?

Anders Jens Ramm that mostly depends on resin and the temperature of your work space. Right now my jam is siriya fast grey. It is way more flexible than elegoo so I get less breakage. I may have traded some detail since switching but idk. Since I'm roughly 22°c (optimum is 25 i think?) I get good results with 6sec @ .03 and 10sec @ .05

The same for the Gamesworkshop miniatures

35 mm is way past "Heroic", generally I would expect that to refer to 28mm. "Heroic" also in conjunction with the above refers to certain traits in the sculpting - larger heads, hands, weapons, etc.

Then there are issues with the evolution of 25 into 28 and people selling "Heroic 28" that are 30 mm or more...

Joshua DeBoe thanks for that, I was blindly talking out of my ass. You are right, I shouldn't have used numbers when I do all my sizing to an stl scale.
You definately bring up a better point in that you really need to check the sizing of all your mo dels in order to give it the best continuity you can manage. Most designers just do their own thing so keep a look out. One exception I make is mz4250. He consistently and thoroughly makes models true to their sources.
35mm is way too tall. But I might give a major villain or an encounter boss alot more stature by scaling them to be abnormally tall. Maybe 32mm?
Be careful though, especially when scaling down. You can thin weapons and parts to a point that the photon can't print it.

Or perhaps the photon can, but I can't

Ryan Tudor Yeah I just had some prints that were labelled 1:700 but were more like 1:575 or thereabouts. Only 20 mm too long...

Joshua DeBoe do you have a workflow for measuring using exact numbers? Is there a preferred software you like?

Ryan Tudor So far I am working with model ships, so I just look up the real measurement, calculate the scale length, and then resize the model appropriately. I do allow for some scale creep - for example, I didn't resize the French 118-gunner down as much as I should have, because I want it to look big and impressive on the table next to the regular 74's.

It tends to be a battle between print detail and support damage. I have had decent success with reducing my exposure times and increasing the size of my light supports to get better detail. Again highly resin dependent.

Orientation. It sound weird but it's the main problem with the layers. For example with female minis you want to avoid print them straight because the bossom will end with marks.

Id assume different for every resin. But slower is always better. I only lift about 10mm

According to Boris, the recommended distance is 2 metres.

Most people use ChiTuBox with the OG Photons

What are your settings? I'm experimenting with mine

Depends on the resin, Elegoo Skin and Grey seem to do good for me at 10s and the Elegoo Clear Green and Red are 12s. Using Prusa for orientation and 70% supports and Chitubox to slice

Prolific!!

Is the stl available? Thanks

STL please!

Sorry mates, I don't sell my files anymore, only finished pieces. I'm planing to make a lot of different bust designs for hold my 1/12 custom heads like Affleck, Gadot, Momoa, Nicholson, Ledger, and some comic characters like punisher, Dredd and a lot of more are in further plans (y)

thats super

Stevo Hill thanks mate (y)

looking great Hershel, glad you have decided not the sell your STLs for peanuts, they are worth a lot more. keep up the good work