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Hey folks, looking for some workflow advice. I've mostly been printing my own Fusion360 modelled parts, but a mate came to me today and wanted me to do some miniatures for him. Specifically he wants me to start with this thingiverse one as close to full build volume as possible:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3016354

I don't particularly want to print a single solid fig that size, if nothing else I doubt it will work properly. What I've done in the past for stuff like this (Baby Groot, Toy Story Alien) is to hollow and drain in meshmixer, but this STL seems to be something different to what I've seen before. The model is made up of a whole heap of component meshes. The slicer plays nice and figures out it's meant to be solid, but in Meshmixer or ChiTuBox when I try and hollow it hollows each of the component meshes separately. That gives me a hollow torso, sort of hollow legs, hollow heads, but no connection between (for exaple) the hollow in the orc's body and the hollowing of the base. So I'm trying to make the model a single solid so I can then hollow it and have it work out.

If I use Meshmaker to 'Make Solid', then all the fine details get destroyed. I've tried using Blender (Was thinking Boolean operations would be my friend if I could split the STL into it's components), but it just crashes every time I ask it to split the imported model into it's components.

Anyone got a better suggestion on how to acheive what I'm after, which is basically a hollow version of this model with a ~1.5mm wall?

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Just a quick question I'm curious about folks. How many of you have used a resin mix gCode before? I seem to have pointed people who were unaware in that direction 3-4 times just this week. I was wondering whether an integrated resin mix button may be a useful feature for the custom firmware.

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Just in case anyone thinks their UV curing torch isn't up to the task of patching small holes: 100 LEDs at 395 nm. I love the smell of overkill in the morning.
Haven't ordered it yet, but I'm seriously considering it just for the look my wife will give me.....

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Hi Folks,
Thinking of trying to do a 3D model of my son for his birthday. Don't have any specialised hardware. Is it possible to generate a half decent mesh with a mid-range potato phone or a high-end compy and without paying more than $10 for software?
(Long shot I know, but if you don't ask you can't win... ;) )

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Hey Folks,

Been throwing around an idea for the last month or so of building a 'DLP Beginner's Kit' for new players in the Photon game. While the stuff that comes with the printer lasted me a couple of days, I then spent a week waiting for orders of other stuff to arrive, like curing lights, paper filter funnels for resin, that sort of thing.

Currently planned inclusions:
1) BIG box of decent nitrile gloves.
2) 50-pack of 150 micron filter funnels for resin changes.
3) A decent quality knife or metal scraper for popping prints.
4) A couple of higher-quality USB drives pre-loaded with a resin mix g-code file and maybe a couple of my fun sample prints.
5) Safety glasses.
7) A 5m Roll of 12V UV LED strip to make a curing bucket.
8) Power Supply for the LED strip.

The things I'm not so sure on are:
* Mask with activated carbon cartriges.
* LED Nail Light instead of UV strip.
* Turntable for curing station.
* A sample bottle of ResinAway and/or PlateBond.

My main issue is that, being Australian, it's bloody hard to get the pricing competitive, so I'd be looking to provide something that was more about convenience factor than cheapest cost.

I'm just chasing feedback at the moment, wondering what people think of that packing list, and how much people would be willing to pay for a kit like that?

Thanks for the help!

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Comedy print of the day (Had the sample jar lying around the house, modelled the article inside myself...):

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Heya Photon Fans. Time for another installment of "Adventures in Photon Chainmail".

Today's project, printing joiner pieces to connect swatches. At the moment, all the swatches on my Thingiverse have solid ring edges. I did a little test knit last week, and joined two swatches by clipping some of the rings, knitting the swatches together, then re-joining the rings with resin spots.

That process was an absolute pain in the backside, and of the 15 rings I attempted to cut and rejoin, only 12 were successful. I've been working on modelling up some dedicated joiner pieces that are printed with gaps in the rings ahead of time. That way I can just weave them into a 'standard' swatch, zap the gaps in the rings, and away I go.

Today's results - 11/10. More successful than I was possibly hoping for. I printed up two types of joiner for the hex mail pattern. One's just a single link where all 6 rings are broken. The other joiner is a line of links, solidly connected to each other, but with open rings on the top and bottom. I've put about a 0.5mm gap in the top of each open ring, with a 30 degree chamfer on it to make things easier to slide in.

I printed off two of the long strips, and a handful of the single joiners, and got to work testing. I specifically used red resin for the patching and blue for the parts, so it's clear where the patches are and where the base part is. I snipped off a 5-link length from one of the chains, and spliced in 4 of the single-link joiners along the top.

The results kind of speak for themselves. The size of the gaps is absolutely perfect for a little bead of resin to fill them in when applied with a paintbrush. The first few I did (on the left hand side) I was over cautious and didn't get quite enough resin on there. The rest of them I picked up a good-sized drop and they came out perfectly!

Next test, printing off a few more swatches and a few more joiners, probably in different colours, and targeting producing a mousepad-sized swatch in an interesting patchwork layup. to see how that works out.

This is also a big step in the longer-run project to produce printed resin bracelets, since I'll now be able to print off some sort of clip/latch arrangement, and easily stitch it onto the end of a run of mail which I can cut-to-fit the recipient.

(Oh, and if anyone's wondering why the joiner pieces look so smooth in the slicer, it's because the STLs were exported at obscenely high resolution. The 10-link long joiner strip is a 129Mb STL. I think I may want to re-export them before adding them to Thingiverse.....)

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Further adventures in Photon chainmail. Episode two of many...

After the success of my 5-way and 3-way mail patterns, I re-visited my 6-way pattern to make it a bit tougher. I've remodelled it to have rings that are (I think) about 1.3mm cross section, so they're quite a lot more robust - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3460640

The main experiment I did today was in knitting together multiple swatches to see whether making a bracelet (or even something larger) from multiple swatches is feasible.

I printed and fully post-processed the first swatch. I printed and washed the second one, but did the joining before I cured it. I went through with a set of side-cutters and nipped the 15 rings down the side of the soft swatch. I knitted them together, which wasn't too bad with a pair of tweezers, then I painted a dot of resin on each of the cuts and zapped them with my UV torch to re-join them. All in all, I think this is a 85% successful effort. Of the 15 rings I needed to cut and re-join, 12 survived the experience. One snapped when I was trying to knit it, and two snapped after they got glued to their neighbours with the resin.

Next step I think will be to print the splits into those rings as an 0.3mm gap or therabouts. Basically large enough I don't need to bend the rings as much, but small enough that the resin's surface tension will let it take up the gap.

I've chucked the 6-way up on Thingiverse for anyone who wants to try it. I've laid the pattern out so they mate end-to-end straight up, and side-by-side with only a small offset: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3460640

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PSA to all photon owners: Chainmail is addictive as hell...

EDIT: Wow, thanks for all the comments folks. Provided the requisite swift kick up the butt to actually get the two in the photos onto thingiverse:
Pentagons is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3453931
Triangles is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3453945

Once you've started playing around with it, it's less than an hour to do NASA-style mail in Fusion360, and under an hour to print. I may have a small problem here.

To forestall the inevitable questions, no I haven't posted the STLs yet. They'll go up on my thingiverse when I can be bothered. In the meantime, here's a more traditional mail I built as one of my first self-designed things for the photon: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3252989

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Hey Folks,

Does anyone know of a way to check what wavelength your curing lights are *actually* running at?

I've got 3 different UV light sources. A little LED Torch, a 6-light LED nail curer, and 5m of UV LED striplight. All 3 sources were advertised as 405nm lights. All three look significantly different to the eye. The torch looks really deep blue, like an old-school black-light flouro tube, and seems to work the best. The nail light looks whiter, and doesn't seem to do quite as much (Definitely got multiple LEDs per chip package), and the strip light is almost pure white with a hint of blue, and seems to be the 'weakest' of the three.

The only test I've been able to come up with is to stick a drop of fresh resin on a card, hit it with the light, and observe how quickly/violently it goes off.

Does anyone know whether there's a more sensible/reliable method to test them?

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