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I dont believe you can make it much better than that...

Print it standing, tilting, any direction but flat..

Were those printed using different resin? I've read numerous times before that exposure times and other settings should be adjusted when switching between resin of different colors and brand.

Yes, different resins require different settings

Sander van Deijl good to know for sure, I'm running out of the complimentary clear green and will be switching to grey soon

Garrett Chapman opaque resins and translucent resins require totally different exposure times. Keep that in mind ?

Sander van Deijl I'm running the clear green at 0.04mm with 60 seconds on the bottom layers, and then 8 seconds per layer afterwards. I should probably bump the 8 up to a 10 for the grey shouldn't I? I've seen some numbers as high as 90 for the bottom layers.

Garrett Chapman do you own the photon or the photon S?

Sander van Deijl the Photon S

Garrett Chapman oohh..... then you should go down in exposure setting. Opaque grey needs 6s at 0.05. You might even be overexposing the green.
I don’t know if you’re familiar with the exposure sheet? Only use those setting as a starting point for the exposure test to fi nd your ideal settings.

Exposure sheet for the S:

https://docs.google.com/....../1vQsW9y5gJKTmv....../htmlview

Resin exposure test:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3973475

have to be able to get better than the ones laying flat hopefully

different resins but same result on either

Garrett Chapman s

Jimmy Clark yes ofc, but not by laying it flat.. lol.. it will be mushed out due to the first layers needs more exposure..

aww that kinda sucks

what about doing the print up and down as mentioned but directly on the build plate no supports?

May I ask for your exposure times? I've found this happens occasionally to my drainage holes on hollowed minis and I just need to take a sharp knife/scalpel to the hole before I post-cure to widen the hole enough for the resin to drain properly.

Do you have the anodized print bed that is completely blue or the metal surfaced print bed?

Josh Berkley blue

Josh Dalgliesh I do t know of the top of my head but I think it’s 60 bottom and 12

This happens easily with clear resins. The uv light leaks through already cured layers and hardens resin in the pocket.

Try lowering your exposure times per layer to 8 would be my first recommendation. Second suggestion is increase the time for the raising and lowering of the bed slightly so there is plenty of time for the uncured resin to flow free and drain off the pr int. It'll increase your overall print time of course, but unwanted curing such as this should decrease. Besides, if your reduce your layer times by 4 and increase the "off time" by increasing the raise and lower process by 4, then they'll offset one another and you won't notice a difference in the print times.

will do ty so much

awww ty I’ll keep that In mind.ty

Jimmy Clark no worries man, let us know how it works out :)

Try printing it on its side (edge). I've been printing lithophanes on their sides and have had great success

Following

Yess, off-times refers to both off-times

Also.... is that the photon S sheet or the photon sheet?
Make sure you choose from the correct one corresponding with your printer.

Sander van Deijl yup figured it out and is working nicely

Sander van Deijl Where can I find the Photon S file? I only found the Photon file

Dan Harabagiu https://docs.google.com/....../1vQsW9y5gJKTmv....../htmlview

Here ☺️

Dan Harabagiu and if your resin isn’t on there, here is the exposure test for the S


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3973475

Sander van Deijl it is not, so i will use the test

do you need back side of this shield? If i wolud lean it back a bit to keep it on buildplate ;)

You'll mostly get some curling out at the ends. If it's a flat surface the supports are attached to I'd print it directly to the bed.

ok thank you. What do you mean curling ? The part will curl ? Wasn’t sure you could print it directly in the bed. Just about everything I’ve seen shows supports on the bottom

I’d angle it back some and add more supports along the way. It will reduce the print time by a large margin.

Like this?

that is a removable panel/door so the back part of it will be seen and used a lot

could you explain how that will make the print time faster please?

Jimmy Clark your printer works one layer at a time. The taller the print, the more layers you will need.

By angling the print you cover a larger surface area at once.

If you were to lay it flat on the build plate it would take 30 minutes or so. But standing up depending on size it could take 14 hours.

Jimmy Clark i don’t know how printing flat on the plate would work. It would certainly make it harder to remove.

But printing it at an angle will allow more supports to be placed below and increase adhesion to the plate. In addition to also cutting print time down overall.

Jimmy Clark yep

Christopher Barnes laying other flat would use less support and less of a chance damage when removing the supports but would it make it that much harder to remove the print?

?

Jimmy Clark flat wouldn’t require any supports assuming the back is flat. It would also be the fastest. It’s possible to remove the item. I have never printed flat though.

You can also place stuck prints with the plate in the freezer for a little. It should just fall off once it gets cold enough.

Jimmy Clark angle more to make it lower and shorten print time. Add more supports and spread them around evenly. Also watch these videos if you haven’t.


https://www.youtube.com/playlist......

Siraya Blu (either the blue colored one or Clear V2).

ty that was what I ended up as my final choice